Gray shark, Sanganeb reef. Sudan.
If sharks is what you're looking for and your ideal dive looks like a swiming pool packed with any kind of torpedo-shaped predators, then you must dive the Southern Red Sea. It is still unspoiled and far from the ridiculus conditions you'll find in the North where you see more divers then fish. Sudan is just the opposite: few boats, few divers more fun. You wanted sharks and sharks it will be. For starters you'll have a good number of well fed grey sharks measuring from 1.5 metres upwards. Their inquisitive attitude will soon bring them close to you, at times too close. You keep cool and swim your way through the dive. But always keep an eye on the fellows. Grey sharks are potentially dangerous but not as unpredictable as others, they will warn you if you're crossing the line and give you enough time to back off. The warning posture is as follows: snout up, arched back, tail and fins down. If you keep on ignoring it they might make it more clear displaying their jaws. Do not go further.
Gray shark, Sanganeb reef. Sudan.
The grey sharks in Sanganeb are a resident bunch although an Italian skipper who owns a boat there told me that at times they disappear completely for days leaving divers rather disappointed. On a good day you might expect to see half a dozen grey sharks hovering on the top of the bank, as you reach the drop off you'll notice a solitary Albimarginatus cruising around. He hardly enters the bank and keeps close to the edge, you'll recognize his pointed snout. Nurse sharks will appear from time to time but not as often as you might expect while you better watch out for some occasional visitors for the open sea.
Gray shark, Sanganeb reef. Sudan.
During one dive I was chasing a couple of Grey sharks with my camera. I was far from my three friends and fully concentrating on my task was not paying much attention to anything else around me. While setting the aperture on my camera I noticed with the tail of my eye something moving beside me. I turned around and saw a large, bold bull shark. He was less then two metres away and more than two metres in length; suddenly all the other sharks around looked toys to me. His eyeball was fixed on me and following my movements as the shark swam away. He seemed propelled by a hidden engine as I couldn't notice any movements in his body. It lasted for just a few seconds then he disappeared in the open sea. I could have taken a picture but I was frozen instead and thinking back I think i would not challenge my destiny with an unappropriate flesh beam in that eyeball. By the way the Bull shark in Africa is also known as Zambesi because he can swim for miles in fresh waters - the Zambesi river - to attack mammals, men included.
Hammerhead shark , Shaab Rumi. Sudan.
The real hero of the Sudanese Red sea is the Hammerhead shark, at least by virtue of being so difficult to spot. In Sudan they gather in large schools and during the day they would stay in depth as most of the large predators. They - as much as Tiger sharks - would come to the shallow at night for hunting. Anyone for a night dive? The one in the picture was a lucky strike as a lesson I learned the hard way some time ago proved right: look up from time to time. As I did it that day I saw five hammerheads well over 2.5 metre in lentgh. As I pointed my camera they swam away rapidly, this was the last one.
Gray shark, Sanganeb reef. Sudan.
Though one week would do two weeks is a better option. You don't go to Sudan everyday and considering the hassle to get permits and go there I would try and get two weeks off. In one week you'll manage to dive Shaab Rumi, what is left of the underwater structure created by Cousteau, Sanganeb and visit the lighthouse - very interesting indeed with a nice top-view over the reef. Just off the Port Sudan harbur lies the Umbria wrec, an italian vassel coverd with corals and whatever else you may imagine and house of many kinds of fish. It sunk in reather shallow water and the deck is beaulifully lighted by the sun. Don't understimate it and get your camera ready, macro lovers will be happy. two weeks will take you further afield to some remote area where less divers go - namely almost no one - and you might spot Whale sharks and dozen of Manta rays. One hint: this is a definite demanding dive adventure, current can be strong, sharks are out there in legions and there are few walls, if any, to back off. You're out there with your diving skills at the stake, don't understimate it. First aid in Sudan is days away and you don't want to mess around with your deco stops. same rule applies on equipments, bring spare parts, one more regulator AND a second mask, last but not least: get your camera serviced and count on one film per dive. There are no dive shops out there and boats rely on what they have on board which is hardly the sexiest, most recent techno-wonder. One more advice: Sudan is a dive aboard trip, no chice. If someone promise to take you diving everyday from the hotel you better know that accomodation standard in Port Sudan is poor or worst and you'll wake up very early in the morning to face four hours on a boat to gat to places and you'll miss the best ones anyway. Get on a boat, forget luxory and enjoy what the true sea is all about, you'll cry for coming back.
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