BE paintball gun mods

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Place the grip frame, or just the left shell vertically in a vice, or similar place for safe drilling. Then drill the hole in front of the trigger guard with the 1/4" bit so that the Automag vertical screw fits.</div> <div> Step 2</div> <div> Optional - shave the edges of either the 'Mag vertical or the grip frame so that they match.</div> <div> Step 3</div> <div> Screw the vertical adaptor on, and screw the macroline fittings in, making sure you removed the plug or hose from the rear reg assembly. Reassemble the grip frame and its contents, screw it back on and put in the hose.</div> <div> Note: If you use an aftermarket regulator, you might consider gutting the stock reg. Which can be found under Modifications Gutting The Stock Regulator</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>How to gut the stock Regulator</b></div> <bR> <div> Gutting and Capping the Stock Regulator</div> <bR> <div> - This mod is so you can get rid of the poor stock regulator to keep it from choking the flow from a better aftermarket reg, and enjoy some extra valve volume too. Warning: do this mod ONLY if you have an aftermarket reg or an adjustable air system. Also, this mod is IRREVERSIBLE. Don't do it unless you're serious.</div> <bR> <div> Tools needed</div> <div> 1) Drill press with a 7/16" bit.*</div> <div> *you can use a hand drill too, but be very careful and precise.</div> <div> 2) Drill (any) with a 1/8" bit</div> <div> 3) Tight thread tap - not sure what size, to tap the bleed hole in the spring cap. I'll get back on this one... and matching setscrew</div> <div> 4) Loctite or epoxy</div> <div> Step 1</div> <div> Remove all lines from the rear reg assm. and remove it from the body. Remove the LP regulator from the main regulator and put it somewhere safe. Take off the spring cover and remove contents (springs, giudes) Then take out the internals of the reg. This might be a bit tricky, but it all comes out.</div> <div> Step 2</div> <div> Secure the empty reg housing, and use the drill press to bore out 1 3/4" down, measured from the top of the threads. Be careful not to bore any more, so that you still have something for the valve spring to rest on.</div> <div> Step 3</div> <div> Now for flow. Turn the reg housing upside down, and use the 1/8 bit to drill 3 more holes into the face, so more gas can pass through and fill the valve chamber. Also, widen the hole to the LP regulator and make it direct. Turn the housing on its back and drill the hole out. The face should look something like this.</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07109cd0.jpg" border=0 width="265" height="205" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Step 4</div> <div> Clean the shavings out of the reg housing. Loctite the velocity adjustment screw of the spring cover in, and use the [[unknown tap]] and thread the bleed hole on the side. With Loctite, screw the [[other setscrew]] into the hole. Then with Loctite or epoxy, replace the now-airtight spring cover back on the valve housing.</div> <div> Step 5</div> <div> After drying, put the LP reg back on, and place the newly gutted reg, now a volumizer, on the gun (remember the cupseal Replace the hoses, and you're ready to go.</div> <div> Notes: It may be a good idea to use teflon tape for the spring cover the first time so you know that the spring cover is infact, airtight. The operating pressure of a typical Rainmaker is about 400 psi, so make sure your aftermarket reg is set to somewhere about there for the best results.</div> <bR> <div> Also: To use an aftermarket LPR, simply use loctite or teflon on the cover of the LPR, and use a 10/24 (std. bottomline) setscrew with lotcite for the output hole. Run the reg with a 90º elbow off the side, or off of the vertical adaptor.</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Cool Trigger Jobs</b></div> <bR> <div> CD jewel case Trigger job</div> <bR> <div> A piece of CD jewel case acts as a spacer for the stock trigger. This Mod gets rid of most if not all(if wanted) all excess movement in the trigger.Not sure if this works on the 99 s/f boards switches. Someone try it and let me know </div> <div> Step one. Take apart the gripframe. take off the trigger and clean the backside of the trigger, that touches the pushbutton. </div> <div> Step two. Find an old CD jewel case you dont need anymore. cut a 1/8inch by 1/8inch square piece from it. </div> <div> Step Three. Make sure the piece you just cut off the CD case fits behind the trigger and doesnt hang off the trigger, if it does cut all excess plastic off until it is alittle smaller then the back of the trigger. Take some Electric Tape and tape it to where you would superglue it to make sure the button still activates with the spacer. </div> <div> Step four. Superglue the CD jewel case to the back of the trigger. *Note* MAKE SURE you put it on the right spot of the trigger, where the trigger meets the button.* </div> <div> Step 5. Let Superglue dry, and test. if the trigger is so short it doesnt activate, or too short for your liking, take some sand paper and sand down the excess plastic. </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Upgrade Installations</b></div> <bR> <div> Maximus Frontblock</div> <bR> <div> Take gripframe off rainmaker, and take off hoses connected to mac mount.Put teflon tape on minicocker vertical asa.</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07252df0.jpg" border=0 width="338" height="223" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Screw minicocker ASA into Frontblock like this:</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07355030.jpg" border=0 width="341" height="259" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Take allen screw and attach frontblock to gripframe.</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07476f70.jpg" border=0 width="374" height="247" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Attach macvalve to frontblock.</div> <div> <IMG SRC="075970d0.jpg" border=0 width="407" height="269" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Attach LP hoses to ram, and HP fittings and hoses. Screw in HP reg, or X-chamber and install on gun</div> <div> <IMG SRC="0767bfa0.jpg" border=0 width="379" height="250" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Spring Loaded Ram</b></div> <bR> <div> Notes: No need to remove bolt-carrier. Spring can be threaded on.</div> <div> Needs to be small so it sits in the recess, or dremel out the recess larger.</div> <div> Nseds to be short enough tha when compress, the bolt can travel far enough forward</div> <div> ie 2" at rest, .5" diamter, .35 compressed, 1-2lbs? </div> <div> Here's the RC car shock and spring I used </div> <div> <IMG SRC="07759580.jpg" border=0 width="345" height="600" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Here is the spring installed</div> <div> <IMG SRC="078201b0.jpg" border=0 width="800" height="539" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> see how the spring seats in a recessed place on the ram mount?</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07a20a10.jpg" border=0 width="800" height="417" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> I had to make that recessed area with a dremel</div> <div> <IMG SRC="07b20160.jpg" border=0 width="800" height="278" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Oh one more thing - it's important that the spring is small enough when compressed so that your ram can be fully retracted and the spring doesn't bottom out. So, the spring fully compressed should not be more than .35 or .375 inches max. Extended, the spring I used is 1.85 inches and smashed down completely it is .35" The diameter of the spring is about .575" </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><U>Raptor Modifications</U></b></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Rear Cocking Striker </b></div> <bR> <div> <B>Materials needed</b>: A cocking rod and a nut that fits the threads on the cocking rod and also fits inside the striker. </div> <bR> <div> <B>Steps</b>: </div> <div> <B>1</b>. Remove the velocity adjustment screw from the rear of the striker plug. </div> <div> <B>2</b>. Put the cocking rod through the striker plug and put the striker spring over the rod. (see fig. 1) </div> <div> <B>3</b>. Take the nut you found and make sure it fits inside the striker. You may have to sand down the edges on the nut to make it fit. Now that the nut fits, screw it on to the end of the cocking. (see fig. 1) </div> <div> <B>4</b>. Now reassemble your striker into your gun and screw your plug back onto your marker. Thats it! </div> <bR> <div> <B>Velocity Adjustment</b>: </div> <div> There are several different ways to adjust the velocity. You can add spacers and/or washers (see fig. 2) or if you have a spring kit you can just change the striker spring with one with more/less tension. If you did the mod as directed above, you can adjust the velocity by adjusting the nut on your cocking rod. (see fig. 3) </div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="07fdd690.gif" border=0 width="477" height="105" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></b></div> <div> Fig. 1: The rear cocking assembly</div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="080f2950.gif" border=0 width="498" height="149" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></b></div> <div> Fig.2: Spacer from the spring guide</div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="0817a780.gif" border=0 width="378" height="120" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></b></div> <div> Fig.3: By adjusting the nut closer to the right, it will create more tension/higher velocity. By adjusting the nut to the left, it will create less tension/lower velocity. </div> <div> <IMG SRC="082f9e30.gif" border=0 width="505" height="227" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Fig. 4: Here is the end result. The beaver tail on it is a KAPP Autococker beaver tail that is just screwed on by the rear grip frame screw. </div> <bR> <div> <B>Quick Double Feeding Fix</b></div> <bR> <div> This is a quick easy fix to most of the double feeding problems. </div> <div> Tools needed: knife, pen </div> <div> Materials needed: rectangular pink eraser (about 1/4 an inch wide) Procedure: </div> <div> 1. Unscrew the bolt plug from the back of the gun. </div> <div> 2. Take the bumper off the bolt plug. </div> <div> 3. Trace the bumper onto the pink eraser using the pen. </div> <div> 4. Cut the pink eraser along where you traced the bumper. </div> <div> 5. Then put cut a dimple into the pink eraser where the bolt plug will touch it (where the hole would be on the bumper). </div> <div> 6. Put the bumper back on the bolt plug. </div> <div> 7. Put the pink eraser into the back of the gun and screw the bolt plug back in. (should go like this: eraser, bumper, bolt plug) </div> <div> 8. Now make sure the gun cocks back entirely. If it doesn't, you'll need to trim the eraser down a little to make it cock. </div> <div> This mod will keep balls from double feeding because of the excessive bolt travel. When stock, the bolt travels too far backwards, allowing another ball to drop into the breech. With the eraser mod, the bolt does not travel all the way back, only allowing enough room for one ball to feed. </div> <bR> <div> <B>Low Pressure Mod</b></div> <bR> <div> Low Pressure BE Raptor Disclaimer: The following is for informational purposes only. Any modifications/damage that you perform on your marker is your responsibility. It is recommended that you use a qualified airsmith to perform any modifications. These tips are provide as is without warrantee or guarantee. Objective: Build a low-pressure BE Raptor from the older (Green) version, the BE Raptor Silver Eagle model 1443 or the factory modified BE Raptor Silver Eagle model 1443 that includes the free bottom line and VL Bow. Parts: Low-pressure RegulatorRegulates gas to lower pressure (Example: Takes 800psi down to 400psi.) A high recharge rate will allow you to have more stable velocities. High Flow Bolt Allows a large volume of gas to pass through the bolt with minimum resistance. High Flow Valve Allows a large volume of gas to pass through the valve with minimum resistance. Low-pressure Spring Reduces the amount of pressure needed to open the valve and re-cock the bolt. Low-pressure Chamber (LPC) Keeps about 1 cubic inch of air space in front of the valve for 2 elbows 1 45 degree and 1 90 degree elbows are needed. 8” braided hose Quick release Not needed, but nice to have. Bottom Line Tight bore barrel Match your barrel to your paint and make sure that there is at least 8” of unported section at the beginning. Tools: 3/8” x 18” wood dowel Flat head screwdriver 2 Adjustable wrenches Supplied allen wrenches Phillips screwdriver Instructions: </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">1. Install the barrel. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">2. Install the turbo valve according to instructions. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">3. Install venturi bolt according to instructions. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">4. Install low-pressure spring in the regulator. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">5. Install regulator in vertical CA adapter. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">6. Install 45-degree elbow on regulator. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">7. Install the quick release on the 45-degree elbow </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">8. Install hose on 45-degree elbow. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">9. Install 90-degree elbow on end of hose. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">10. Install bottom line on end of 90-degree elbow. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">11. Install bottom line to bottom of grip </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">12. Replace springs with LP spring or cut existing spring. (Cutting spring is not recommended.) Warning: Cutting the spring too short will ensure that your marker will not cycle correctly. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">13. Install the low-pressure chamber. </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">14. Test marker and set pressure regulator and/or if applicable, change/cut springs accordingly. </div> <div> Tips: It would be best to install this in steps, testing the marker in-between. (i.e. Install turbo valve, reassemble, and test the marker. Install bolt, reassemble, and test the marker, etc.) This will isolate problems to a specific part. A Palmer Stabilizer can be used instead of a regulator. Palmer Stabilizers better cope with CO2 than most regulators. Lubricate o-rings on parts before installation. If you are low on cash, you can install this in steps. The most logical order would be: </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">1. Barrel </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">2. Valve </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">3. Bolt </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">4. LP regulator & bottom-line </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">5. LP springs </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">6. Replace springs or cut springs </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">7. LP chamber. </div> <div> If any of this seems too difficult or if you need more detailed instructions, have a professional do the low-pressure conversion for you. </div> <bR> <div> <B>Bolt replacement 101</b></div> <bR> <div> Bolt replacement 101Tools: 1/4” wood dowel 1 foot long. Make sure that the bolt/striker is in the forward position. Unscrew cocking knob. Insert cocking knob into top hole and screw in place. Pull cocking knob and connecting rod out (it comes out as 1 unit.) Remove top rear plug. Remove barrelSlide the bolt out, if needed, use the wood dowel to lightly push it. Replace the bolt with the new venturi bolt making sure that the hole lines up. Drop in the connecting rod (with the cocking knob not attached anymore) back into place. Put the cocking knob back in place.Cock the marker and maker sure that the bolt is in correct position (still about 1 ½” away from the rear of the marker.) Put the barrel back on Put the top rear plug back on. Disclaimer: The following is for informational purposes only. Any modifications/damage that you perform on your marker is your responsibility. It is recommended that you use a qualified airsmith to perform any modifications. These tips are provide as is without warrantee or guarantee.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Vavle Replacement 101</b></div> <bR> <div> Valve replacement 101 Tools: </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Flat head screwdriver </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">Allen wrenches that came with your marker </div> <div> <IMG BORDER="0" SRC="Symb075c00b700c8ccffff00.gif" HEIGHT="13" WIDTH="24" ALIGN="bottom" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">1/4” wood dowel 1 foot long </div> <div> Unscrew cocking knob. Insert cocking knob into top hole and screw in place. Pull cocking knob and connecting rod out (it comes out as 1 unit.) Remove top rear plug. Remove barrel Slide the bolt out, if needed, use the wood dowel to lightly push it. Remove 2 screws holding the grip frame in place. Separate grip frame from body Remove bottom rear plug/velocity adjuster. Remove the striker & spring. Remove front bottom plug Remove valve spring, star washer, & seal stem assembly. Remove valve set screw from bottom of the body.Using the wood dowel, push the valve out the front. Replace the valve with the new valve making sure that the small pin hole is facing the bottom rear. Reassemble the marker. </div> <div> Tip: You may want to Locktite the valve set screw. </div> <div> Disclaimer: The following is for informational purposes only. Any modifications/damage that you perform on your marker is your responsibility. It is recommended that you use a qualified airsmith to perform any modifications. These tips are provide as is without warrantee or guarantee. </div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>