Directions:
located off of Route 121 in west wrentham. From Providence take I-95 or route-146 to I-295. Follow I-295 to the Diamond Hill Road Exit, #10. take Diamond Hill Road, RI-114, North 4.1 miles. Take a slight right onto Wrentham Rd, RI-121. After 1 mile you'll cross into MA and you'll be on Cumberland Road. Continue for around .5 miles and the parking will be on your left. If you miss it, you'll hit I-495 so turn around.Face: Joe's Rock - Left face
this is the face farthest from the parking lot. If you want to top rope you'll have to downclimb to the lip and find the rap bolts or use some very long slings.Unnamed, 5.9-, At the far end of the wall is a small roof problem. either pull a heel hook or end up straddling the flake that forms the roof. An awkward climb at best.,
Height: 20, Bolted:N, Type: Face/roof
It's a Bargin, 5.9, It's a Bargin and No Bargin both start left of Cool Route. This is the left most route and goes straight up and over the roof..,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Roof
No Bargin, 5.10b, Use the same start as It's a Bargin but go further right at the roof. The roof curves in on the right side and there's a horizontal crack that can take a cam before you pull up on the roof.,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Face/Roof
Cool Route, 5.8, This is the third bolted route from the left. It goes up a shallow bowl to a vertical crack on the right. Hope the cracks dry and follow it up under the roof, traverse left and top-out just left of No Bargin. The rap bolts will be to your right after you top out.,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Face
Sister of Mercy, 5.11b, A zig-zagging route. A balancy start until you clip the first bolt. From there go right to the main wall not straight up over the bulge. follow the thin seam that angles up and left and then face climb straight up following the bolts.,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Face
Mother Superior, 5.12b, I've never seen this one done, so you're on your own. Follow the bolts up this overhanging face!,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Face
Face: Joe's Rock - Right Face
In the middle of the wall is a sloping walk-up called "the wave" to the right of this are a couple of interesting routes. There are a couple of bolts near the top that you can use to set a top-rope.It's all buckets, 5.8, Short climb just to the right of the wave,
Height: 15, Bolted:N, Type: Face
Standard Route, 5.8, Follow the obvious notch in the middle of the face then follow the bolts.,
Height: ??, Bolted:Y, Type: Face
Smokey Joe's Cafe, 5.10b, From the start of the Standard Route, go up the face to your right and do the roof problem.,
Height: ??, Bolted:N, Type: Face/Roof
Unnamed, 5.5, Continue around to the right from Standard Route and climb the right side of the crag topping out at the same point as the Standard Route.,
Height: , Bolted:N, Type:
References:
Route names and ratings based in part on RI Climbing, Brian Phillips