Directions:
From I-295, take the US-6 exit, exit number 5-6, HARTFORD CT./PROVIDENCE. Go west until you reach Brown Ave then take a right onto Brown Ave. Continue north past Dame Hill Farm and look for a very small pull-off blocked by large rocks with a no dumping sign. If you get to Greenville road you went to far. After you park follow the path east and you'll find the cliffs. You could also park at Dame Hill Farm and walk up since there is only room for maybe three car's max at the trailhead.Face: Crag 1
As you come down the gulley into the ravine, this is immediately on your left.Rubber Tire Raceway, 5.2, Climb the center notch, the rock on either side is very loose flakes. In the picture it's in the dark crease on the right so you can't see the climb.,
Height: 20, Bolted:N, Type: face
Face: Crag 2 - Warm-up wall
This is the second out-crop as you come down the hill, just before the bottom.Face: Crag 3- Fang
Just past the bottom is crag's 3 and 4. Crag 3 is the western face which is smooth with a number of difficult climbs.No Name, 5.8, crack on left side of wall,
Height: 15, Bolted:No, Type: crack
The Rattlesnake, 5.12+, CLimb the blank face before you get to the arete,
Height: 20, Bolted:No, Type: face
No Name, 5.9+, Start at the bottom, climb up to ledge below small roof, then up the left side (if you pop off here you swing out into the trees!) onto the top of the roof and then up the crack on the right.,
Height: 25, Bolted:No, Type: face
The Fang, 5.10-, start to the right of No Name and go straight up. From the ledge go up under the roof using the one "fang" shaped hold at the top and then finish using the crack once you're above the roof.,
Height: 25, Bolted:No, Type: face/roof
Face: Crag 4 - The Bowl
This is the face that runs parallel to the trail. It has a ledge 8-10 feet off of the ground and then goes up another 15' to the top.No name crack, 5.5, starting on the ledge, pull the lip and up into the crack (this is the same crack that crag 3 finishes on),
Height: 15, Bolted:No, Type: Face
The Bowl, 5.4, From the ledge, climb anywhere in the shallow bowl. Lots of variations.,
Height: 15', Bolted:N0, Type: Face
No Name, 5.3, Further to the right are a number of cracks leading up.,
Height: 15, Bolted:No, Type: Face
Face: Crag 5
Short difficult cliff. Be careful toproping here as you can push some of the smaller trees over!No Name, 5.8, Follow the large holds on the left side of the wall.,
Height: , Bolted:N, Type: Face
No Name Crack, 5.9, Dirty and wet crack to the left of the large block at the base,
Height: , Bolted:N, Type: Crack
Screaming Sphincter, 5.10-, Stay 3 ft to the right of the crack on the face. Slightly overhanging,
Height: , Bolted:No, Type: Face
Medusa's Coil, 5.11, Starts further right and goes straing up under the overhang at the top,
Height: , Bolted:No, Type: Face
No Name, 5.7, Furthest right crack,
Height: , Bolted:No, Type: Crack
Face: Crag 6
Probably the tallest face here. A number of difficult overhanging problems.No Name, 5.10, ,
Height: , Bolted:, Type:
No Name, 5.10+, ,
Height: , Bolted:, Type:
Battle of the Bulge, 5.11-, ,
Height: , Bolted:, Type:
Toastmaster, 5.11+, ,
Height: , Bolted:, Type:
Reanimator, 5.10, ,
Height: , Bolted:, Type:
Questionable Crystals, 5.8, Follow quartz dike from right to left until it hits the top. ,
Height: 35, Bolted:No, Type: face
Face: Crag 7
Large overhanging slab with campfire remains under it. If you like 5.10+ roof problems this is the spot.Snakeskin Suit, 5.10, Straight up the roof.,
Height: 15', Bolted:No, Type: roof
Venom, 5.10+, Not sure if this is still climbable. You can see where holds on the roof have broken off.,
Height: , Bolted:No, Type: roof
References:
Route Names and Ratings based in Part on the Guide Book titled "Rock Climbs of Snake Den State Park Johnston, Rhode Island " by Ed Sewall, 1991