Breeding Bettas


1. Choosing the pair.

Make sure that you have a male and female.  The male betta has longer fins and the female betta has a "white dot" just cranial to the anal fin.  You want to select fish that look good to you.  The age of the fish should range from 6 months to one year depending on the size of the fish. Avoid fish with bent or missing fins because these traits may be passed on to the fry.  The best fish can be purchased through a breeder who shows in the International Betta congress (IBC). If you join the IBC you can look at the show results in their publication called "Flare", and find the breeder that is placing in the category of fish fish color and fin type you are interested in.  Then contact the individual and ask if they have any fish to sell you or if they know where you can get the type of fish you are interested in.  You should expect to pay about $15 to $30 for a pair and about $7 dollars for shipping.  Yes you can find some nice pet store fish for $3 for the male and $2 for the female, but you may have trouble finding female bettas, also the fish from winning individuals have bigger fins and brighter color for the most part. The other benefit is that you can get advice from them and meet people this way.

2. Conditioning the breeders

It has been suggested to condition a pair for 2 weeks prior to breeding.  During this time the pair are kept separated in quart jars.  Fed 2-3 times a day with water changes every 2 days.  Remove all uneaten food with an eye dropper that has been left for more than 20 minutes.  The fish keeper has a tendency to over feed the fish during this period. I use a beef heart recipe, but I think most people use live food.

3. Preparing the breeding tank


During the conditioning period is a good time to establish the breeding tank.  Carefully clean it with a bleach solution or 1:20, then allow the tank to dry completely before adding fish. The water should be soft, with a pH around neutrality, and the temperature should be 80 F.  The temperature can be maintained by a submersible heater. No filtration is best. Put a sponge filter in an established tank and start the bubbles.  This will get the filter biologically active by the time you are ready to use it with the fry.  No gravel is best and the tank should be covered to help keep the nest intact. Half of Styrofoam cup cut vertically is floated concave side down to give the male a structure under which to build his nest.  The size of the tank can vary, from a 10 gallon aquarium filled up to about six inches to a gallon bowl.  A low lighting will set the mood.

4. Introducing the pair

Most people put the male into the tank first a few days prior to spawning.  All feeding stops at this point.  The female is placed in a quart jar in the aquarium. This should stimulate the male to build the nest.  After several days release the female even if there is no bubble nest.  Some males wait till the last moment to get ready others will have a nest the size of Mt. Everest.

5. The spawn ritual

At this point anything can happen, some times good and sometimes bad. I have had males that kill the female and surprisingly, even females that kill the male. Also lack of interest, or lots of interest, but no spawning.  I usually give them three days, before removing any fish.  Patience and persistence is key, but sometimes your lucky.  The spawning ritual starts out with the male often violently attacking the female after they display to one another.  The female usually retreats to the floating plants.  The male will swim back to the nest to enhance or maintain it after each attack.  After a day or two the male will swim to the female, display and then back to the nest.  This is repeated many times.  The female will start to follow the male to the nest. This is also repeated. The female, when she follows the male to the nest will circle under the nest and the male will also, in a slow deliberate motion.  Then the male will rap around the female inverting her and they will drop down the water column.  This will also be repeated with out eggs at first, then latter the female will release the eggs as they are in their embrace.  As they drop down the water in their embrace the fertilization of the eggs occurs.  The male will release the female and collect the eggs.  The female will drift lifelessly to the surface, then recover and repeat the process until her eggs are depleted.  Then the male will chase her away and passionately maintain the nest.

6.  Removing the breeders

After the spawning is complete, remove the female and treat her injuries with BETTAMAX, which can be purchase from your local pet store, or the IBC, and sometimes Wallmart.  Leave the male in with the nest for two more days.  You will see the fry by there tails hang down from the nest.  Periodically a fry will fall from the nest and make a mad dash in some random direction.  The male will catch the fry with his mouth and spit him back into the nest. This continues until the fry are escaping so often the male just gives up.  This is the proper point to remove the male.  Some males will have a history of eating the babies or the eggs, if this occurs, just after spawning is complete scoop up the nest with a petri dish and remove the male and the female. After three days return the newly hatch fry to the breeding tank.  Try to maintain a constant temperature.

7. Raising the fry

On the day the fish have spawned put 1/2 of a teaspoon of brine shrimp eggs in a two liter bottle and fill it with fresh water.  Bubble air in it for one hour, then add 2 table spoons of synthetic sea salt, or 2 table spoons of Kosher salt and one table spoon of epson salt.  You should get newly hatch baby brine shrimp in about three days and they should last about a week.  After removing the male add 2 or three drops of "liquid fry" or two or three drops of wet hard boiled egg yoke that you rubbed of the moistened yolk after wetting it.  When the shrimp hatch, filter out about 2 cups of hatched shrimp with a coffee filter, wash that with fresh water then rinse off the shrimp and egg shells into a jar. Wait about 10 minutes and most of the shrimp will be at the bottom and the egg shells at the top.  Remove the shrimp with a turkey baster and add this to you babies.  Feed the fry 2-3 times a day.  Set up the tank for raising the fry.  A ten or twenty gallon tank with your sponge filter and maybe a guppy and a heater set to heat the tank to 80 F.  After about three weeks of the fry in the breeding tank, remove the guppy from the raising tank and gently pour the fry into the bigger tank.  Be sure that the temperature is identical.  As time goes on remove any abnormally large fry and place them in quart jars and continue feed them brine shrimp also. At about 2 months intermittently use flake food instead of brine shrimp. At about 3 months jar any fish who are scraping.  These are your males.  Some people have bred fish as early as three months but most fish will not be ready to breed until about 6 months.



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Document last updated SEP 24, 2007.
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