Beijing
Contents:
Introduction
Shopping
Food and restaurants
Miscellaneous

Introduction (written while driving from Beijing airport to hotel)

First impression of Beijing - a long, long road, lined on both sides with thousands and thousands of tall, fragile-looking, grey skeleton trees. Some have nests. The air is misty, the sky has a yellowish tinge [apparently sand from a nearby desert?]. The grass and shrubs have that brittle, sparkling look - frost. It's not snowing but it looks (and feels!) like it might. It's a little colder than the Ice Arena.

Now lots of billboards and big buildings and still lots of trees. Lots of cyclists, without helmets. The taxis are red. A lot of signs are in English and Chinese.

It is 2 degrees C according to a sign we just passed. We're driving on the right side. There are lots of signs saying "Beijingers are friends to all the world!"

Lots of tall apartment buildings with dirty glass panes. Can see clothes hanging behind them. People wandering around, wearing padded coats, going about their business.

We just went over a bridge. The lake was mostly frozen over, with a few patches of water. We just passed the Australian and Canadian embassies.

Lots of brown-ish hedges, lots of trees and different sorts of buildings, shops, cars, bikes, trams, buses, and the odd rickshaw. Lots of construction work and scaffolding in this area.

I like what I see. It's interesting and big and lively, although there aren't the huge crowds I was expecting. It has character. I like the little low walls and the green-brown trees and the mist... and there are lots of miscellaneous cool things, like these twirling gold pinwheels, old-style buildings, statues and monuments, like a big ancient-style alcohol cup standing in the middle of the road.

People mill around outside bus stops, hoping you will let them take you somewhere on their bikes. Mei said to pretend they don't exist.

Tall, wide buildings with thousands of gleaming windows.

There are bridges to allow people to cross the roads, and underground paths too.

The taller light posts have twelve sphere [only the top four are lit]. We've just passed a bunch of famous places, like Tiananmen Square. The Forbidden City is on our right, behind a very long, red wall.


Shopping in Beijing

The streets were lined with stores, including some alleys. The alleys were more stimulating than enjoyable. "Watch your bag in a place like this." I walked carefully so the girls were on either side of me, and they kept nudging me out of someone's way, telling me to hold my bag in front of me, to not linger in front of anything I didn't want, to watch out for groups of four or five men... it was cold and somewhat overwhelming. Couldn't stand still or relax for five seconds.

Beijing city street
A typical Beijing shopping street
You can see into the 'stimulating' alleyway just referred to. The red cars are taxis.

[While this phenomenon was at its worst that day in Beijing, particularly because I was unused to it, it was something I experienced all through my trip - not being able to stand still but always having to remain on my guard. Continually hearing "watch out!", hearing the sudden, annoying, shrill ringing of a bicycle behind me whether I was on a footpath or the road, or a motorbike honking, even cars, not to mention people walking into you if you dared stand still...]

*

On Thursday we slept in and went shopping. The place we went to was typically crowded and packed in - not much room to move freely, you can't pause to look at something unless you're pretty sure you want to buy it, people call after you (this shop was a big building divided into corridors of small box stores, each manned by a different person). So it's not exactly restful and fun. But I wanted cheap clothes so we braved it.

One thing I don't like about being out is crossing the roads. You have to keep on your toes! Nobody gives way to pedestrians, even at pedestrian crossings - it's like taking your life into your hands. I feel like I'm courting death running across ten lanes of buses, taxis, cars and bikes, all coming at top speed from whatever direction...

The traffic in Beijing isn't fast enough to be truly chaotic but it can be confusing (partly, I'm sure, because I'm unaccustomed to traffic driving on the right), and there are many tight squeezes and near misses. Often when cars are turning they look like they are gonna smash into the other lane. Cars do u-turns anywhere they can. The two sides of the road are usually divided by a low white fence and there's usually one lane for bicycles going either direction - lots of bikes everywhere. Wherever there is no fence dividing both sides, people will do u-turns - at traffic lights, anywhere.

Bargaining is definitely the thing to do. I don't understand what is actually said but some techniques include not showing you're very interested - "don't smile", said Mei when I saw something I wanted to buy - and walking away in the hope they'll call you back - if they don't you can always give in yourself.

*

The supermarkets are full of weird and unidentifiable products, they're so different from home, although there's a handful of familiar items. [Like Oreos and Dove chocolate, which is kind of expensive and has Chinese characters in addition to the familiar romanised brandname. They have lots of packaged dried fruits and packaged dairy products and packets of bread smaller than at home and not looking so nice or so fresh.]

*

Two observations related to this [jade] store - Chinese are very blunt and determined to get what they want (haggling, saying "this isn't good enough", getting the exact product they want) - there are lots of loud exchanges of words. The second is that salespeople often outnumber the customers - I've seen restaurants with 15 or so waiters and 8 customers. This gem store had several dozen saleswomen*, at least 50, and there were about 8 customers, most of whom didn't want to buy but were dragged there by a tour guide who wanted commissions. ^_^.

*They were all women; Mei said men would do more energetic or technical work, this 'easy' work was for girls.

[They took us to a number of this sort of place on our tours, stores where they gave an introduction to the product and then released us in a field of glass cases. It became quite boring.]

Then we went to a Chinese medicine place, where a guy gave a 20-minute sales pitch of various products, of which I understood not one word - as usual! The building was a place promoting the establishment of Chinese medicine on the world stage, and endorsing its use now. They sold stuff, but more expensive than in normal pharmacies (Mei bought over a dozen travel sickness pills for 2 yuan - 35c!).

[The Chinese medicine store] was a good place to visit from a tourist view - Chinese history, Chinese jade jewellery/craft (that place we went to this morning), Chinese shopping (last night), Chinese medicine... a kind of well-rounded look at China, you know? But I didn't get much out of it, except one thing that really stood out.

The guy giving our sales pitch deliberately burned himself. He was explaining a famous cream developed long ago for damaged skin and burned skin. He wanted to prove how good it was.

A length of chain had been lying in an open flame. Two girls came and held it out straight. The middle was red-hot. When a third girl touched a piece of paper to the chain, the paper burst into flames.

Then the guy deliberately slid his hand quickly, twice, over the glowing red metal. I got a whiff like meat cooking, but it was human skin. He showed us his palm, skidded with nasty black and blistering white. Then one of the girls smeared the hand with the burn cream as he grimaced in pain. [All of the audience grimaced right along with him.]

Through the unintelligible speech that followed I just sat there thinking "how many times does he do this each day? He burnt his hand in front of just six people, who probably won't buy anything (and we didn't). Does he do this for every tour group that comes in? Are these other rooms full of guys hurting themselves for their employers? How would this guy describe his job to his friends?" The cream did indeed seem to have helped a fair bit, as we saw at the end, but I couldn't help thinking, this is one of the worst jobs in the world...


Food and restaurants

Before shopping we had lunch. I just got a drink, the others got Peking duck, the famous Beijing specialty, grilled duck. It looked really nice - they dabbed duck pieces in a sauce and put them with some oniony thing and some other vegetable in a thin pancake, wrapped it and ate it. I didn't trust my stomach to handle even a mouthful but it looked good.

(Note on Chinese food: seems to be eaten more casually/messily - people slurp, gobble - it's great, so friendly.)

I had a sip of Mei's green tea. It was greenish hot water with 'mini sunflowers' in it. It tasted fine. You could really taste the flowers.

*

The dinner was really good. $2.50 for six jiao zi and a full carton of fried rice. But then they were so generous they gave us an *extra* carton of fried rice, and two extra jiao zi. So amazing...

*

I ate steamed rice with capsicum, beans, cabbage and leeks, helping myself as I pleased. I ate more than yesterday. They're not very filling though - lots of small pieces, it's not like tucking into a big lasagna or something. [This isn't so bad as it means meals take a little longer so they're a bit more relaxed.] But then, I didn't eat any meat; didn't feel like it.

*

Beijing food is really, really GOOD. You know how fussy I am with food but I like most of what I've tried. Lunch today was really good, we got about ten plates to choose from and everyone helped themselves. It was the first time I'd really eaten in a day and a half, so I didn't eat a lot, but I tried a few things. The pock chow (green veggies) were great. They brought a whole fish, which people pulled bits out of with their chopsticks - it's well-cooked and the flesh easily pulls away from the rest of the fish - and that was nice. So was the duck, sweet and sour pork, fried cabbage, steamed rice... and I'm sure all the things I didn't eat were nice too.

(I definitely couldn't face breakfast - boiled, flavoured eggs, meat wrapped in deep-fried batter, and hot soy milk are NOT good for a non-morning Aussie with a reticient stomach...)

I looked nice and slim this morning but I'm sure I lost all of that with all those jiao zi I just ate!

*

In some restaurants you should wipe your plate before putting food on it, and not pour your drink into the cups. [In some restaurants you wash your bowls, cups and chopsticks with hot tea, although the chopsticks are often alright, that is, when they're disposable ones wrapped in paper. They even provide a bowl for you to tip the tea into after using it to wash your crockery.]

*

Next we had lunch. All Chinese meals are accompanied by little porcelain cups of green tea. Lunch was good, I thought. Everything is in small pieces so you can pick it up with chopsticks. I'm getting a little better with chopsticks but I have trouble with rice and thin noodles. [I'm reasonable with them now. Slippery foods are still problematic but it's not hard to become competent with chopsticks if you use them every meal.]

Chinese table manners are much cooler than Australia - you can end up with lots of bits of food on the table after each meal, where they were accidentally dropped, or where people pulled out bones/fat and dropped them on the table. Everyone gets a new pair of cheap, plastic-wrapped chopsticks, a little cup for green tea, and a small bowl for your actual food, with a spoon if you wanna put soup in there. Everyone helps themselves, eating straight from one of the many dishes on the table, or filling their bowls.

Heh, an ad for Pizza Hut just came on TV. Pizzas with pepperonis, peas and corn on them! Mei says pizzas are expensive here, about 80 yuan ($17).

Most of the restaurants we've been in are very large and full of staff, but only one or two tables are occupied... food arrives pretty fast and tea is common as water.

*

Lunch was nothing new, still very tasty. If people drop stuff on the table they leave it it there. Everyone ends up with bits of bone, miscellaneous pieces of food and spilled tea all around their place. I eat most things but not tofu (boring) and I'm not fond of fish - it tastes alright but I forget to de-bone it and find myself with a splintering mouthful. I then pull out tiny thin bones from my mouth. Seems like I always miss just one, and feel it in my throat for the next half hour. ^_^. I most liked the chicken at this meal.

*

After this we went for dinner, had another Beijing specialty. (The three foods Beijing is famous for is its dried or candied fruits, its grilled duck, and some other weird thing. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, before lunch we visited a store selling Beijing specialties. I sampled delicious duck and delicious dried fruits and the 'other weird thing', it looked like a kind of black and white candy but tasted odd, Mei said it contained a kind of Chinese medicine.)

We had a pot of boiling soup over a flame. The soup didn't have much flavour itself but we dropped vegetables, noodles and thin strips of lamb in, waited a short while, then retrieved them, dipped them in a sauce, and ate them. I wasn't hugely fond of the sauce but it was a nice and cool/interesting meal. The lamb was so thin, you could drop a piece in and watch it change from pink to white-grey in about ten seconds.

Everyone else at the table had to use a large communal pot of soup but I got a small pot of my own. This is an example of the foreigner being favoured - this happened a few times on the trip, people taking extra care of me, or maybe assuming I wouldn't be happy to go along with everyone else? At any rate, I was always treated well as a foreigner and never badly. In this case, though I would have been happy to share the others, I was glad for my own boiling pot because those thin, gelatinous noodles are *hard* to manipulate with chopsticks and I would have made such a mess!

Oh, I bought the famous Beijing candied fruit tonight - a long skewer with candy-covered fruits, like mini-apples and mandarins. It's quite big, but I got it from a street vendor for 1 yuan (originally 1.5 yuan but he lowered the price because I'm a foreigner!) - 22c!


Miscellaneous

Grown men fly kites, like in Tiananmen Square. And I've seen little carts owned by people selling a fruit or vegetable, or candied fruits, or whatever. And I've seen two old men sitting on upturned crates, outside in the cold at night, playing Chinese chess - and the next night, several men standing around playing cards on the same crate. And people playing casual badminton on the street. How can anyone voluntarily be outside in that cold?

In China, you put your used toilet paper in the bin, not toilet. [The plumbing system can't cope with it.]

And some people huck up loogers on the street - that is, spit. With a maximum of preliminary 'huchkkkkk' noise. ^_^.

I have yet to see a single woman spit, but it's quite common among men.

*

There are three distinct smells in Beijing that you don't get in Australia. One is a kind of diseased smell - I got a whiff of it now and then in a street. Another is the toilet smell, the smell of accumulated used toilet paper in bins. The third is much more pleasant, it is the smell of delicious Chinese food cooking, emanating from the many stalls and restaurants.

Some buses run on electricity, their tops are attached to a series of long wires like telephone wires, kind of like a bumper car attached to the ceiling. And there are cool traffic lights that count down so you know how long you have to wait until it turns red or green.

*

And we met this cool guy, Chang Ping, who worked at the ice sculpture place. Now this is a good example of Chinese vs Australian culture. We met for half a minute and then he and Mei were joking around, insulting and teasing each other like brother and sister. I only understood the few bits Mei translated (her insulting the sculptures - "that's a cactus? it looks like a pineapple!", saying he was pretty pathetic and scrawny security, him pretending to do kung fu on her) but the atmosphere was just lighthearted and fun so I laughed with them a lot. There was also a nice girl from our tour group who had decided to come to the ice place, and Ping's coworker, another nice girl.

The two ice workers guessed whether I was older or younger than Ping and found I was just a little younger. Ping then called me 'little sister'. They asked me to show them my Chinese (about three phrases - "it's better than his English!" said Mei), asked me what I thought of China... Ping also asked me what I thought of *him*, said I have a beautiful smile, and that I keep smiling like that I'll be ten years younger (or something like that - it's a proverb). His partner shyly said that I was a beautiful foreign girl. (Oh, the lady organising our tour in Beijing said I look like a doll - that I have a perfect face. Of course I don't but I like being told I do. ^_^.)

Anyway, we had a lot of laughs, and then they were nice enough to walk the three of us to our bus stop, which was about 15 minutes away. Mei said that's another Chinese culture thing - it's not so uncommon to go walkabout on the job or to be lazy (we've seen workers in a factory just sitting there with their feet on the table, reading magazines and smoking). It was good they did; it was a dodgy area so I felt safer. I really enjoyed that hour, it was nice to get a taste of this good, friendly side of Chinese culture, and to kind of meet someone.

*

There are hundreds of bikes parked alongside the roads.

*

Good food, cool sights. I'm really enjoying this trip so far. Mei has been *so* helpful, and Beijing is a very interesting place, with a lot of history. Yeah, it's *very* cool to visit, but I wouldn't want to live here. The people's lives are hard - they work very hard, long hours, their incomes are low, pressures are high, the weather is so so cold, people don't trust each other...

*

There are soldiers around, plenty of them, in green uniforms. Their job as I've seen it is to stand around guarding cultural relics. They can stand so stiffly and look so grim. But I've also seen them walking along casually, swinging their legs and laughing with their friends, like any normal young men.

*

Our hotel room is an oasis of warmth in a cold, cold city. The cold is not so unbearable, especially when you're walking around - it's just that it's ever present and all pervasive, you can't forget it, everyone is so rugged up, so the city seems uncomfortable. It's foggy in Beijing, everywhere is foggy and cold in the morning, misty and cold in the afternoon. It's all white and bitingly cold, everything is shrouded and backgrounded by white to some extent. But the air is dry - I get dry, cracked lips and skin flaps on my fingers.

Because of the white, the cold and the darkness (sun rises lateish and sets early), I get a kind of negative overall impression of life here - of course there are many good things about Chinese life and culture (eg filial piety, friendliness, availability of bargains, good food, interesting history, strong, unique culture, etc) but I keep thinking "this is great to visit but I wouldn't want to live here" because I see people in padded coats riding their bikes home in the cold and dark, students with heaps of homework... Of course everything is WAY less bleak and cold in the other seasons.

The only other thing I don't like is the dirt - after a day out you just *feel* dirty and I only have one pair of trousers. You have to rinse some crockery with tea before eating from them, don't put your bag on the floor, sometimes the floor of squat toilets is just gross, there's dust in the air (although you can't sense it when you're breathing), there are gobs of fresh spit on the ground, your nails become caked with grime, etc. When you wipe your nose the tissue is laced with black. You just don't feel very clean.

*

Our tour got cut short by two days, so we can sleep in tomorrow. They crammed five days of activities into three days. But we got a better deal than anyone else on our tour, so who are we to complain? [Also, there wasn't much we could do by worrying about it. For about $140 we got three days packed with sights, five nights in a hotel and several meals. It was a shame that we had so many activities in a shorter time, because at some places we had to kind of rush through, but I didn't really mind because a couple of restful days sounded attractive.]

*

We went to take the train to Xi'an. So it was goodbye to Beijing, the city with the many large buildings and the white sky, against which could often be seen the silhouette of a flock of flying birds, or a string of kites.


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