The Hour Glass

sketch from a book on Miller's Lutheran church (at Miller Library 979.99B)

A portion of an old stagecoach line skirts the southern border of Ogden Dunes. It was just a couple of tracks through the sand fifty years ago, a bit of a reminder of what it must have been like in its heyday. Many dunes just south of Ogden Dunes were mined for the sand they contained and the course of the road was changed to what we know today, to accommodate the mining operation. Parts of the road were first graveled and later asphalt paved. It is hoped that the story of this stage line can be presented sometime, but for the present we will present a story of Early Taverns of Portage Township that our Historian, Peter Youngman, happened upon.

It is from a newspaper article published in 1934, but the content is very similar to a chapter in William A. Briggs' unpublished History of Porter County, Indiana. Unfortunately Professor Briggs died before his book could be published.

The story presented here has been modified by the addition of comments by our Historian, Peter Youngman, in order to interpret some of the statements in present day form.

In the early days of Porter county travel, the only roads were paths cut through the forest or winding trails across the prairie. Care must be taken to avoid mudholes and hills too steep for convenient ascent. Pavements were lacking and in many places the road-bed of the local variety of soil was not even graded. The fastest and most elegant vehicle of travel was the cumbersome stagecoach, drawn usually by four or six horses, with its driver on the front, outside seat, the baggage on top and the passengers inside. With this outfit, the usual rate was from five to eight miles per hour and the run for a set of horses was from fifteen to twenty miles. Thus it became necessary to have a stable with a change of horses and a tavern for the accommodation of the passengers every few miles along the way. It is these taverns of which we wish to speak.

They were usually built of logs, sometimes hewn but usually round, with the cracks chinked with native mud or plaster, while the roof was of clapboards rived from nearby forests. Occasionally glass windows were found, but usually greased paper or deerskin was used to fill the openings in cold or wet weather while in warm and dry weather nothing obstructed the breeze.

Screens were entirely unknown and during the summer swarms of flies from the nearby stable and mosquitoes from the swamps or stagnant pools paid their respects alike to guests and host. If lights or fires were kept burning after night, a multitude of bugs, gnats and beetles swarmed in to add to the confusion.

The house was usually but one story in height and one end was occupied by a large room from ten to sixteen feet square which served for lobby, kitchen, dining room and sometimes also for bedroom for all guests and the host and hostess. The children usually slept in the loft which was entered by means of a row of pegs in the wall, not unlike the rungs of a ladder with one side missing.

At one end was a large fireplace of stone or brick with its mud-and-stick chimney, all built outside the main building. In front of this was a large hearth of brick for sand on and around which, on rainy or snowy days, might be seen all manner of wearing apparel spread out or hung on rude racks to dry, while the guests stood or sat with but few remaining dry clothes to provide warmth or cover. This fireplace was large enough to hold logs from four to six feet long and provide a swinging crane of the same length. From this hung several pots and kettles containing various and sundry articles of the bill of fare, while on the hearth might be found one or more so-called Dutch Ovens, with coals under and on top, containing the bread and roasts.

Sometimes fireplace and chimney worked wonders in providing a cheery fire and carrying off the smoke; while at other times it seemed that no kind of wood placed on the fire would burn, and that the chimney was built for an ornament while most of the smoke which did not enter the pots and kettles, circled leisurely around the room and found its way out through the doors and windows or through holes in the roof.

The furniture was not unlike that found in many a cabin home only more numerous and will not be described here.

The fare usually consisted of two or more kinds of wild game with their gravies, potatoes, johnny-cake, milk, coffee or tea and sorghum or wild honey to finish on. All food was dished up in huge earthen or wooden bowls and each guest helped himself. Liquor of some kind was always at hand and often flowed too freely.
If the tavern were a trifle pretentious we may find two or more bedrooms built at one end of the large room or perchance another cabin nearby contained only sleeping quarters. But no matter how large or how small the outfit, all guests must be accommodated and at rush periods beds would be made of whatever material was at hand and placed all over the floors and even on the dining table.

The hostess served as cook, dishwasher, waiter and chambermaid, while the host was busy killing and dressing game which supplied the meat, going to mill, chopping wood for the fire and caring for the horses. Sometimes the accommodations were good; sometimes fair and sometimes--well; it was better than coming out in cold or wet weather. If the tavern was overcrowded, if the victuals were smoked rather than cooked, if the covers were too thin, if the dogs barked all night or the bedbugs were too hungry, all you could do was to make the best of it--there was no other tavern for miles in any direction and the proprietor knew it.

A log barn was nearby with feed for your team or horse if you drove your own and if it was a relay station, several teams were stationed there to relieve the tired ones when the coach came in.

We must not forget that somewhere in plain view of the road hung a sign of some kind and description telling the traveller that a lodging place was at hand.

If our description has been well-drawn and you imagine the tavern standing on the dividing line between prairie and woodland, on a small rise of ground and near the stage road you will have a scene quite familiar to many pioneers in the early days of Porter county. Induct yourself into the hostelry on a hot, sultry, wet summer day; let the smoke drift into your eyes; inhale the sundry odors of drying garments, smoldering green wood and various eatables; seat yourself at the table with a mixed crowd of eastern aristocrats and sturdy backwoodsmen and experience the pleasures of "ye olden days."

In the early days of our history, Portage township sported at least three of these taverns and a few stories concerning them may be interesting.

For several years the coach line ran entirely across the county north of the Calumet river. In section 36 north, Portage township, it passed a bluff on the bank of the river which was equal to, if it did not surpass, the one on which Mr. Baye [Bailly] built his home. Here, at one time, a tavern was kept by a Mr. Butler and the spot has ever since been known as Butler's Point. The site is on the north bank of the old river bed (now dry) a few rods west [I don't know why he words it this way. Perhaps he meant north of Burns Ditch, perhaps west of Salt Creek. Perhaps he just looked at things differently.] of the main channel of the Burns Ditch, is crossed by the high tension electric line and is marked by a patch of bare sand beside a crab apple thicket. [I'm sure that's no longer true but am not willing to thrash through there this time of year to find out. As this is in writing, I shall add that I of course would never trespass on Bethlehem Steel property. The Samuelson Road bridge is on NPS property (though likely only accessible by boat without trespassing) but this spot either belongs to Bethlehem or is in that new industrial park.]

During a certain night, Butler entertained a guest (the name has been forgotten) from Philadelphia, who was going west to invest in Chicago property, and who was known to carry his funds with him in gold coin. It is known that he reached this tavern but that is the last that was ever seen, known, or heard of him. It was supposed that Butler murdered him and hid the body and the bag of gold somewhere in the sand hills along the bank of the river. A careful search was made by the man's relatives and a strict watch was kept concerning the movements of Butler, but all to no avail. However, news of the incident spread along the route and his trade naturally was ruined. Soon after, he moved away taking his secret, if he had one, with him. He was lost sight of and no one was ever brought to justice for the crime.

More than one person has spent hours, if not days, searching for the treasure but are loath to admit the fact until they are made to believe that their questioner has done likewise.

Perhaps the gold is not there; perhaps, if it is there, it will some day be found; perhaps it has already been found by a certain man who, before his death, willed to his heirs much more property than any one of his neighbors supposed that he owned. Who knows? [That story has been attached to many early inns so take it with a grain of salt.]

Near one of the stage lines south of the Calumet, Dr. Holmes built his cabin and "entered" his farm in 1838. With him and his family came his maiden sister, Miss Holmes, and also his wife's maiden sister, Miss Rugar. A year or two later, these ladies started a tavern on section ten west, Portage township, near their relatives' home. This soon became known as "The Old Maids' Tavern." The traveler hardly knew what to expect as he neared this stopping place, but when he arrived he was met by two refined, cultured, yet pioneer maidens and two huge Mastiff dogs (put the emphasis on the dogs). Here was to be found the neatest rooms, the best fare, and the most comfortable lodgings anywhere along the line.

The site is on the north side of the direct road [Clem Road] leading south from U. S. 20 at the west end of the B. and O. viaduct, is situated near the east bank of Willow Creek and is marked by several evergreen trees and a huge thicket of lilac bushes. [Modern homes have now replaced the trees and lilacs.] This [formerly] dirt road, about a mile long, is part of the old "line" and is [no longer] in its original condition. [Hubert Skinner in 1882 wrote that there was an earlier tavern in the same place, built in 1837. "An Italian by the name of Carley, who had previously kept a stand farther north, on the lake, built the house and kept it for a time."" The two women opened their house soon after.]

For many years, the "Long Pole Bridge" near the center of section thirty-one north, Portage township, [north of today's Burns Ditch, about 525' west of the Samuelson Road bridge^*] was the only bridge across the Calumet in Porter county. This made it necessary for all the stage coaches to cross at this point, at least during the part of the year when there was high water. For this reason the line and the tavern at this point were more permanent than at many other places.

Near the north end of the bridge stood Culver Tavern on Culver Point, later known as the Point Farm. [This is the same place or near that referred to above as the Butler Tavern and Butler Point.] The location being good, there was more trade than was usual with most of the old taverns. The hostess was unable to care for all the duties of so important a post and found it necessary to keep a "hired girl." She obtained the desired help in the person of a neighbor's daughter who was not only a good cook but also agreeable in her demeanor and withal, fair to look upon.

Along came a gallant young driver, who was susceptible to her charms and soon lavished all his affections upon her. It seemed that she was sensible enough to know that many of the drivers, as well as railroad men of a later day, often play the same game at several stations, so failed to be seriously impressed. This made it necessary for him to use every resource at his command.

It so happened that on one of his trips this gallant had a full load of passengers including an old lady who was an adept in the art of telling others exactly what she thought of them. After a delicious mid-day meal, they were again in the coach and the fresh "four" were champing the bit and eager to go. The driver mounted his seat and started off with a flourish but could not refrain from bidding his fair damsel a last farewell and throwing her a parting kiss. While he was thus occupied, the "prancing four" managed to leave the beaten path far enough to run one set of wheels over a large stump and upset the coach. Off spilled the baggage and the driver, who with considerable dexterity managed to prevent a runaway.

After some time the passengers emerged from the overturned coach in serious confusion and perturbed state of mind. As soon as the aforesaid old lady could catch her breath she began to unload her mind upon the crest-fallen driver. Her vocabulary was extensive and she did not want for adjectives and epithets so long as they were righting the coach and getting started once more on their journey. The old lady's vituperations were enough to crush all his spirits but worse was at hand. The comely maiden stood on the porch with a broad smile on her face and one of those indescribable looks which tell more than word can express.

In conclusion we might remark that the driver did not win the lady's heart and hand but that sometime later she "tripped to the altar" with a young farmer of Porter county and today [63 years ago] several school children call her "great-grandmother."

The site of Culver Tavern is on the north bank of Burns Ditch, several rods east of Hedstrom concrete road [now abandoned Samuelson Road] and is marked by some pear trees and several clumps of shrubbery. It may be approached over the old dirt road (which is the same as the coach line) from the east. [This area has been so altered by ditching, the garbage dump, and Bethlehem's waste dump that the current east-west dirt road from Shadyside does not entirely follow the old coach line route.]

Michigan City Evening Dispatch, Friday, 14 August, 1925

The giant cable swings out of Chicago through Gary, Hammond, Michigan City, South Bend, Elkhart, Goshen, Lagrange and into Toledo and eastward to New York.

The last phase of the work was finished this week when the wires from the east were spliced with those from the west near Toledo.

Among the officials who witnessed the completion of the last splice were C. H. Rottger, president of the Indiana Bell; W. H. Curran, chief engineer, and George Wellbaum, publicity manager.

The cable is 882 miles long, the greatest length of any telephone cable in the world. Encased in a heavy protecting jacket of lead are wires which permit 300 separate conversations between New York and Chicago or intervening points.

Total length of the wires in the cable is 447,000 miles, enough to girdle the globe 20 times.

More than 20,000 stout poles support the giant cable in its course across the country between the nation's two largest cities.

Interruptions of telephone service caused by sleet, snow and electric storms which have damaged open wires in the past will no longer be common.

Chesterton Tribune, Thursday, 7 May, 1959

About 8 a.m. a train blocked the 15th and 17th st. crossings for more than 15 minutes, and at about 10 a.m. another train blocked the Waverly rd. and the 4th st. crossings. School buses were late Thursday morning since the crossing was blocked.

The case will be heard in Justice Dale Johnson's court Sunday.

NYC officials were in town both Monday and Tuesday to confer with town Marshal Alvin Hjelm about the problem. This is the second time this year that NYC trains have been arrested.

At the present time there is a good high school building at Crisman in the north end of Portage township. The south-enders say they get no benefit from this school on account of its too great distance, it being seven miles away, while the people in the rest of the township are satisfied and do not want to increase the taxation by the erection of another building and the additional outlay for more teachers, etc., which would follow. Wheeler, in the north end of Union township has an excellent high school, to which the prospective secessionists will have access free of charge if the commissioners comply with their wishes and tack them onto Union township.

It is quite probable that the rest of Portage township will put up a stiff fight against the proposition.

The summer of 1997 has been one of lush plant growth with the result that at the end of August the landscapes are a pleasant variety of greens instead of the old usual dried up yellows and browns.

What coloring might we expect for Autumn?

PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE
Only through Ogden Dunes history can the community become conscious of itself. We urge you to write little anecdotes of your experiences while you have lived here in the dunes as well as just before you joined our community. It would be nice if these stories contained accurate dates.

It appears that we can best serve the community through our publication the HOUR GLASS, providing that we get some help. Please provide us with YOUR Story of the Dunes! And many thanks to those who have!

Naomi Svihla

The Hour Glass Newsletter George Svihla, Editor 762-5184 gsvihla@delphi.com Historical Society Officers Naomi Svihla, President Susan Clouser, Vice President Donald Kurtz, Treasurer Jane Sutton, Secretary George Svihla, Curator Peter Youngman, Historian Board of Directors Margaret Benninger Evelyn Childs Susan Clouser Donald Kurtz Constance Richter John Skafish Courtney VanLopik Naomi Svihla George Svihla Thomas Tittle Jane Sutton Peter Youngman

Memberships: Individual $10 Family $15 Sponsor $50 Patron $100 Organization/Business $100 Life $500

Life memberships and contributions beyond the membership level amount go into an endowment fund.

Historical Society of Ogden Dunes, Inc.
115 Hillcrest Road - 101
Ogden Dunes, IN 46368-1001

OPEN HOUSE at HOUR GLASS
September 21, 1997  1:30 to 4:00 PM

e-mail		Hour Glass	H.S.O.D.

^*I included comments directed purely to George in with my articles and historical materials being e-mailed to him. I tried all sorts of techniques to get him to leave those notes out of newsletters but usually I was unsuccessful. This time also editor George included my long, irrelevant digression stuck in the middle of Briggs' article, along with even my alert to George in boldface. In other words, an additional half page of text was included in the printed Hour Glass. Therefore I guess it is appropriate for me to include that same verbage here on-line. I'll simply remove it from the body of the article itself.

1939's Calumet Region Historical Guide says, "Twenty rods (L) [330' west] from present [Samuelson Road] bridge over Burns Ditch are log piers marking the site of the OLD LOG BRIDGE. Colloquially called 'ever-to-be-remembered-by-those-who-crossed-it,' the bridge, built in 1836 of logs and covered with poles, was 80 rods [1/4 mile] long. Formerly, the Little Calumet River {now Burns Ditch at this point} valley was very wide and was flooded throughout the year."

According to Norris Coambs in the Nov., 1956, Duneland Notes, Earl Reed "goes to great length to show mention of the Long or 'Pole' Bridge in various sources and then tells us of his preliminary investigations as to the location of the Long Pole Bridge. After much work he finally discovered that the location of the Long Bridge was about 175 Yards [1/20 mile] west of the present [now abandoned] Bridge over Burns Ditch on McCool [Samuelson] Road, this was approximately the same position as the one given in Abbot's 1855 Map of Porter County. Part of the difficulty in finding the location of the Long Bridge was that it was abandoned in around 1851 and other bridges, further down the river, were erected to take its place." I assume Norris meant up the river? That is also the only mention I have found of that bridge being abandoned that early. The obvious question, "Why look to the 1855 Abbot map for the location of a bridge abandoned four years before and replaced by one in another location?" is ignored.

In Earl Reed's "Some Early Trails and Highways in North Porter County, Indiana," which came out in Dec., 1956, apparently as a D.H.S. pamphlet rather than as an issue of Duneland Notes, Reed describes the bridge in question as being 1/3 mile west of Salt Creek's mouth (which is a less precise way of saying .05 mile west of the Samuelson Road bridge.) The former Little Calumet channel referred to stretches northwest from the Samuelson Road bridge, while Burns Ditch heads straight west. Reed mentions an article by Rollo Fogarty (a former resident of Ogden Dunes) on the Long Bridge. Perhaps it is in a Duneland Notes? Perhaps I have read or even copied it but I cannot locate it now in any case.

This page is at http://Ogden_Dunes.tripod.com/newsltr/5/hg5-8.html.

Web-published 21st September, 1999. Slightly altered and reposted 18th February, 2003. More added 4th & 7th June, 2006.