How do the Moon and the Sun Cause Tides?
The ocean rises and falls regularly. There is one complete rise and fall about
every 12 hours. These regular up-and-down movements of the ocean are called tides.
Scientists have discovered that two things help cause tides: (1) the
gravitational attraction exerted by the sun and the moon on the earth, and (2)
the movements of the earth and moon.
The
gravitational force of the moon pulls on all the land and water of the earth.
This pull is strongest on the parts of the earth that are nearest to the moon at
any one time. Since water moves more easily than the land, water is always
pulled up a little on the side of the earth closest to the moon. That is, a high
tide is produced on the side of the earth nearest the moon. At the same time,
there is a high tide on the opposite side of the earth. This is because the
water on that side of the earth is farther from the moon than the solid center
part of the earth is. So the moon pulls harder on the solid part and pulls it
away from the water on the other side. In between these two points the water
level is lower.
As the earth
rotates, the land is carried toward the pulled-up water closest to the moon. If
you are on a seashore as this happens, you see the water level rise. We say that
the tide is rising or coming in, and we call this the flood tide. When
the water reaches the highest level, it is high tide. As the earth keeps
on rotating, this part is no longer nearest the moon and the water level falls.
Then we say that the tide is falling or going out, and we call this the ebb
tide. When the water reaches the lowest level, it is low tide. Then,
when the earth is halfway around – that is, when this point is farthest
from the moon – there is another high tide. This high
tide is followed by a low tide. After this low tide, the next high tide comes
when this part of the earth is again nearest the moon.
For
centuries, sailors have known that the hours for high and low tides are not the
same every day. The time needed to complete two high tides is not 24 hours, but
about 24 hours and 50 minutes. The reason for this extra 50 minutes is the
movement of the moon around the earth. The moon revolves around the earth in the
same direction that the earth is rotating. It goes around once in about 29½ days. So the earth must rotate a little
more than a full turn to bring any point on it back to the place where the water
is pulled up toward the moon.
The sun's
gravitational pull on the earth also has an effect on the tides. The sun pulls
harder on the earth than does the moon. But because the sun is so far away, the
pull on the side of the earth nearest the sun is not much greater than the pull
on the side away from the sun. So the tides created by the sun are not as high
as those created by the moon. In most places, the effect of the sun is less than
half that of the moon. The tides we observe are combinations of these two types.
Twice each month the tides caused by the moon and the sun come at the same time,
causing the highest and lowest tides. And twice each month they come six hours
apart, causing the least noticeable tides.
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