Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Briggs & Stratton
Horsepower: 3.75
Description: wont start for about three months now. Before that it would start and cut but
would miss at full throttle and the engine would not spin fast enough. It would bogg down.
After cutting for awhile like that, when it got hot, it would not start up again. I would
let it sit for a while than it would start up again until about three months ago, now it
wont start at all.
REPLY1:First we must determine whether your problem is with the fuel system or the ignition system. Since you say that it was missing prior to quitting and also not starting when it was hot, I would suspect the ignition system. To test the ignition system, you will need to remove the spark plug. This usually will require a 3/4 or 13/16" deep socket. After removing the plug, reconnect it to it's wire. Place the plug on a surface of the engine that is metal(ground). With all controls set in the starting position, pull cord and observe spark plug tip. Don't hold the plug without it being grounded as you will get shocked. A blue spark should be observed. If the spark is blue, let me know and we'll continue from there. If it is orange or non-existent, replaced the plug first. If that doesn't solve the problem, we will have to determine what type of ignition you have. Does the mower have a flywheel brake(do you have to hold handle down to start? Also does the top of the motor have a decal with easy spin start, magnetron, or quantum? Let me know results either way.
STATUS: Waiting for reply
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Briggs & Stratton
Horsepower: 3.75
Description: The mower will not start with the spark plug wire attached but if I
disconnect the wire and have it near the plug where it can still spark it runs fine. What
could be causing this? I changed the plug last year and this was the first use this year.
Could I have the wrong type plug or gap? I have a Champion J19LM plug.
REPLY1: I believe your problem is a partially sheered flywheel key. What is happening is the spark timing is advanced and holding the plug wire farther away retards the timing. you probably hit something last season that caused this. If you want more on changing the flywheel key, let me know. You can purchase a key even at K-Mart for less than a dollar.
STATUS: Waiting for reply
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Briggs & Stratton
Horsepower: 3.5
Description: Increasing the throttle beyond three quarters makes the pull starting rope
back out approximately three inches and the starting mechanism howls, until I back the
throttle down.
REPLY1:The problem you describe is actually very common. What has happened is corrosion
has gotten onto the end of the crankshaft, inside the starter hub. A quick fix would be to
lubricate the starter hub. This can be accomplished by removing the starter housing. Once
the housing is removed you will see a small hole in the top of the starter hub. Inside the
hole there is a small piece of felt that holds lubricant. Simply squirt some lubricant
into this hole and your problem is solved.
An even easier way to correct the problem is to drill a small hole(1/8") in the very
center of the recoil. You can lift the decal and do it so the hole is hidden. Simply spray
penetrating oil into the hole, straight down, while you slowly work the recoil, with the
engine in the off position.
If either of these do not work, there is more corrosion that needs to be removed. This
would involve removing the starter hub and cleaning the end of the crankshaft with emery
cloth. Let me know if it comes to this and I will provide you with instructions.
REPLY BACK1:Thanks, your quick fix on the recoil starter worked perfectly. The time
saved
was vast.
STATUS: Resolved
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Tecumseh
Horsepower: 4.0
Description: My engine will not start.First I put in a new spark plug changed the oil air
filter muffler and added new gas. Still no start.Second I removed the head and cleaned
everything up. I saw nothing out of the ordinary. I put it back together and still no
start. While cranking to start sometimes the starter rope snaps back rapidly and
forcefully. Also sometimes there is an unusual clanking sound.Third I took everything
apart Piston rings crankshaft camshaft rod valves gears oil breather valve head gasket
everything looks fine to me. I am sure gas is getting to the combustion chamber but I am
not sure how much. Some oil is passing by the rings,but I thought that was normal for
these small engines. Carburator seems to be operating. Confirmed spark at the plug. Kill
switch works properly. I give up. I do not know what to do next. Can you suggest anything?
REPLY1:With the recoil snapping back the way you describe, I beleive you have a timing problem. If gas is getting into the combustion chamber, you should at least get some pops from the motor if it is firing at the right time. Is this motor a points ignition or electronic? Is the ignition coil(where spark plug lead comes from) inside or outside the flywheel?. Depending on the type of ignition, will determine the possible fixes. This may take a little correspondence, but I'm sure I can get you running again. Let me know you answers on the ignition and we can start troubleshooting. Also please try a known good spark plug in the engine. I have had brand new plugs fail and torn into the engine. This can cause you all kinds of frustration.
ANSWER1:thank you for your help!! We finally figured out the problem and the lawnmower is running again!!
STATUS: Resolved. Waiting for solution.
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Unknown-2 Cycle
Horsepower: 4.5
Description: My lawnmower will run for only a few seconds unless I continue to pump the
primer.
REPLY1: The problem you have is very common with 2-cycle motors that have sat for awhile.
The problem is a lack of fuel going thru the carburator. The first thing I would do is
check and replace or clean your fuel filter. This may be in the fuel line, in the tank, or
on the bottom of the carburator, depending on the manufacturer.
What happens is the gas evaporates and leaves a film of oil. Sometimes complete
disassembly and cleaning of the carburator is necessary. Remove the fuel line from the
carburator. Turn the gas shut off valve on and insure that fuel is getting to the
carburator. If your fuel is not entirely fresh, I would drain it all at this point. If
fuel is getting to the carburator, try turning the adjustment valves slightly back and
forth, leaving them in their original positions. This may loosen the blockage. Try the
mower now with fresh gas. If it doesn't stay running, remove the air filter and cover the
air intake with your hand(full choke), while you attempt to start. If this does not loosen
the blockage, you will have to disassemble the carb.. If it gets to this point, let me
know. I will need to know the carb manufacturer and model, which should be stamped on the
carburator.
STATUS: Waiting for reply.
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Briggs & Stratton
Horsepower: 2.5
Description: The start rope on my lawnmower has somehow become stuck and I cannot pull it
I have been leary of taking things apart Although the daughter of an engineer I have not
yet tackled a lawnmower It appears to be tangled or not on the right track Thank you so
much for offering this service.
REPLY1: I need to know a few things about your mower, before I can give you an accurate
fix. Is the starter cord an extended type? In other words does it run through a hook on
the hanndle bars? Is there plastic shrouding on the engine?
The answers to the above should provide enough info so I can give you an answer. You
should be comfortable with removing a few bolts as the starter shroud will most likely
have to be removed.
I also hope that the cord being tangled is the problem and not more serious. To check for
this, you will need to remove the spark plug wire first. Make sure it is as far away from
the plug as possible. Tie it with a string if necessary. If you have a flywheel brake(you
wowuld need to hold a handle down on handle bar to start it), you will need to tie it down
as well. Reach under the mower and try to turn the blade in both directions. It should
move in one direction easily. let me know how that goes.
ANSWER1:Thank you for responding to my e-mail The cord is not an extended type. By shroud
do you mean the covering over the area where the cord resides Also the blade moves freely.
REPLY2: Well the good news is that the problem is not severe. By being able to move the
blade it tells me that the engine is not siezed up.
The shroud that I refer to is the covering over the recoil, where the rope resides. I need
to know if this is plastic over metal or just metal.
At worst case you will need to remove the shroud and rewind the starter. This will involve
the need of a couple of tools. I need to know if you are comfortable with that. Also did
the motor squeel at all the last time it was run. See question under Fixter's Fixes.
Fixter's Free Lawnmower Repair Service .
STATUS: Waiting for reply.
Type: Other
Motor: Other
Horsepower: 0.0
Description: What is this 'stale gas'? Any liquid, even water will leave a residue, when
sitting. Is it alright to have gas sitting in the gas can over winter time? Should gas not
used at the end of the season be thrown away?(Reference to FAQ
question)
REPLY: You are right about the residue. The more additives in the liquid will be solid
after evaporation. This is even worse for 2-cycle engines where gas and oil are mixed. You
actually wind up with oil left after the gas evaporates.
Actually the stale gas I was refering to is the gas contained in your lawnmowers tank and
carburator. At best this would be maybe a quart.
The gas you have in your can would probably be a greater amount, plus it should be sealed.
You can tell if your gas is stale by a quick smell. If you are unsure, you should discard
the old gas after winter. You can also purchase a preservative that will prolong the life
of your gas, however I don't care for additives as their combution properties can
differ.Stale gas may actually not effect a new mower as much as an older one that has less
compression. The stale gas burns slower, causing a loss of power.
STATUS: Assumed Resolved
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Tecumseh
Horsepower: 5.0
Description: I will do the best I can in giving you a description I am doing this for
someone else as he is at work When trying to start the lawnmower there is no spark from
the spark plug. Would appreciate any help you can give us
REPLY1: In the case of no spark, the first thing to do is insure that all controls
are is the proper start up position(ie throttle, self propell, flywheel brake). If no
spark is present, I would try a new spark plug first. If this does not solve the problem,
troubleshooting depends on the age and configuration of the engine.
Is this mower an electric start, self propelled, bagger? Do you have to hold a control
handle down to start? Newer machines can have several safety switches and contacts which
if not functioning correctly, will cause no spark. If this is the case, the switches can
be temp. disconnected to determine if they are the cause. Let me know if this is the case
or if the problem is solved.
STATUS: Waiting for reply.
Type: Lawnmower
Motor: Other
Horsepower: 13.
Description: My Honda ride on lawnmower is beginning to take more time for the hydrastatic
drive to engage. Could the oil be getting old or low and what type of oil would it use? I
have no manual for this machine and was wondering if one could be found on the net. Thanks
for any help you may have.
REPLY1: Hydrostatic transmissions usually have a filter on them, similar but smaller than
a car filter. I would imagine that one could be found at a Honda dealer. True Value
hardwares usually are. I would recommend changing the oil and filter. YOU MAY BE RUNNING
LOW ON OIL. This can do irrapairable harm to the transaxel. I would also recommend that
you don't use the machine until the problem is repaired. I'm not absolutly positive, but I
know my father uses 10 W 40 in his cub cadet hydrostaic drive. It is a safe hydraulic oil.
I suggest looking at yahoo for the manual. I found a couple of links there. If I run
across them again I will send you a link.
As far as draining the fluid, there should be two plugs in the transaxel. One on the
bottom and one on the middle in back. You can drain the oil out the bottom and fill it in
the rear until it reaches the hole level. This is if you don't have a dipstick under the
seat.
STATUS: Assumed resolved