Congratulations on your adoption
of a new cat or kitten.
Here is some information to help you with your new bundle of joy

           Cats/kittens need time to adjust. a month is the minimum. If they hide how ever I recommend you find them if
            you have not seen them in a few hours during this adjustment period or they will hide all the time.

Kittens need to be held by anyone that comes into your home. Doing this will prevent the cat from being violent or hide from strangers in the future. same with new cats.

never under ANY circumstances hit your  cat or kitten

provide plenty of food and water for your cat or kitten. MILK is not necessary as long as your cat has a well balanced food, I recommend Purina cat or kitten chow. Generics are fine But sometimes lack what you baby needs to grow up string and healthy.

One cat litter box per two cats MINIMUM... I do not recommend the clumping kind. for kittens they will inhale it and it clogs the nostrils. plus, even though you clean the clump. some urine will still remain. old fashion clay litter is best.  I recommend using a liner or a trash bag for easier cleaning and news papers under the liner or trash bag in case the bag/liner gets torn.
Place the litter box in a quiet place. never in a heavy traffic area. would you go if people were around you?

Cats need there own space. What you thought was yours is now theirs. so play nice. cats love to cuddle. so cuddle them.
 

If your new cat/kitten misses the litter box ,and it is important that you show them several times during the first few days, simply take them to the mistake , tell them NO and show them the proper location. HITTING THEM will not help... They might have some accidents during the first few days OR is they are stressed by other pets you might have or children

Spayed and neutered pets are less distracted by sexual instincts. They can be more responsive to family members.

Spayed and neutered pets are less likely to roam the streets and become lost or injured in search of a mate. (Male cats can smell a female in heat over great distances.)

Spayed and neutered pets are less likely to fight with other cats, thus saving themselves much pain and their owners high veterinary bills.

Spaying or neutering a cat, contrary to popular belief, does not make them fat or lazy. Rather, the metabolism of a cat changes after spaying and neutering, and the cat requires less food. This can save on cat food bills.

Spayed and neutered cats are cheaper to license.

Spayed female cats are less likely to develop cancer or pyometra, a common uterine infection in unaltered females.

Female cats in heat spray and defecate in inappropriate places and stain carpets and furniture. Additionally, they attract noisy, fighting, and bothersome males. Spaying eliminates these problems.

Pregnant female cats eat more both when pregnant and after offspring are born. Health care for pregnant females is expensive.

Raising kittens is expensive, and it is time-consuming to feed, worm, vaccinate, advertise and place them into homes.

Whole male cats typically spray urine to mark territory both inside and outside the home. This spray has an obnoxious, unmistakable odor. Neutering, at a young age, helps eliminate this problem.
 
 

                                                                   Feline Vaccine Protocol
 

Panleukopenia
parenteral MLV
intranasal MLV  vaccinate at initial visit and then every 3-4 wks until >12 weeks 1 1 dose 1 year later, then every 3 years Highly recommended. Not for use in pregnant queens or kittens <4 wks or immune compromised
 

Panleukopenia
killed vaccinate at initial visit and then every 3-4 wks until >12 weeks 2 doses
3-4 wks apart 1 year later, then every 3 years Highly recommended
 

FHV-1/FCV * 2
parenteral MLV
intranasal MLV vaccinate at initial visit and then every 3-4 wks until >12 weeks 1 dose 1 year later, then every 3 years 3 Highly recommended

FHV-1/FCV *
killed vaccinate at initial visit and then every 3-4 wks until >12 weeks 2 doses
3-4 wks apart 1 year later, then every 3 years 3 Highly recommended
 
 

Rabies
killed  1 dose 1 year later, then every 3 years 5 Highly recommended for all cats
 
 

Chlamydia
avirulent live 1 dose 1 dose 1 year later, then annually Recommended for use in cats at high risk of exposure
 

Chlamydia
killed 2 doses
3-4 wks apart 2 doses
3-4 wks apart 1 year later, then annually Recommended for use in cats at high risk of exposure
 

FIP
intranasal MLV  2 doses
3-4 wks apart not earlier than 16 wks 1 year later, then annually It is reasonable to vaccinate cats at risk of exposure to other cats with known or clinically suspected exposure to feline corona virus
 
 

FeLV
killed 2 doses
3-4 wks apart;
1st dose > 8 wks;
2nd dose >12 wks  2 doses
3-4 wks apart 1 year later, then annually Follow testing recommendations as published in the AAFP/AFM Recommendation for Feline Retrovirus Testing. Recommended for use in cats with high risk 4 of exposure.
 
 

M. Canis
killed  Prevention:
3 doses; 2 wks between 1st and 2nd, then 3rd dose 3 wks after 2nd dose.
Treatment:
3 doses; 2 wks between 1st and 2nd, then 3rd dose 3 wks after 2nd dose. 3rd dose is at DVM discretion.  Guidelines for long term use or booster intervals not available Not recommended for routine use. Insufficient data to evaluate use in prevention or elimination of M. Canis infection.
 
 

When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; from those that could just irritate the gastrointestinal tract to those that have a corrosive action and can chemically burn the sensitive mucous membranes of the mouth, esophagus, and stomach.

When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your cats. Most baits contain sweet smelling inert ingredients, which can be very attractive to your cat.
 
 

Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly when used inappropriately. One extra strength acetaminophen tablet (500 mg) can kill a 7 pound cat.

Keep all prescription and over the counter drugs out of reach of your cats. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, and diet pills are common examples of human medication that could be potentially lethal even in small dosages. Only one half of a 200 mg naproxen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in cats.

Never leave chocolates unattended. Approximately one half ounce of baking chocolate per pound body weight or less can cause clinical signs of toxicity.

Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species, including felines. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene - one or two balls can be life threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.

All automotive products such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze should be stored in areas away from cat access. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly in a 7lb cat.

Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea products she/he would recommend for your pet. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label instructions. When a product is labeled "for use in dogs only" this means that the product should NEVER be applied to cats. When using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all cats from the area for the time period specified on the container.

When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cats away from the area until the area dries completely. Discuss usage of products with the manufacturer of the products to be used. Always store such products in an area that will ensure no cat exposure.
 
 

Alternatives are trimming the claws (see section on Trimming Claws) or "Soft Paws". These are soft plastic covers for the cat's claws. Generally, the vet will put them on, but cat owners can do so themselves if shown how. They will last about a month despite efforts to remove them. Check the July 1992 issue of Animal Sense. There is an informative article titled "Fake Fingernails for Felines?" by Dr. Marilyn Hayes at the Rowley Animal Hospital in Rowley, MA. They can make a useful training tool if used in conjuction with techniques to redirect clawing and scratching to approved items.
 
 

Roundworms: can cause diarrhea, constipation, anemia, potbellies, general poor condition. They are present in the intestines and feed on the digesting food.
Whipworms and threadworms: fairly rare, can cause diarrhea, loss of weight, or anemia. Whipworms burrow into the large intestine; threadworms into the small. Both may cause internal bleeding.
Hookworms: can cause (often bloody) diarrhea, weakness and anemia. They enter through the mouth or the skin and migrate to the small intestine.
Tapeworms: look for small "rice grains" or irritation around the anus. They live in the intestines and share the cat's food. Tapeworms are commonly transmitted through fleas. If you cat has fleas or hashad fleas, it may have tapeworms.
Flukes: can cause digestive upsets, jaundice, diarrhea, or anemia. They are found in the small intestine, pancreas and bile ducts.
If you suspect worms in your cat, take it (and a fresh fecal sample) to the vet. Do not try over the counter products: you may not have diagnosed your cat correctly or correctly identified the worm and administer the wrong remedy. In addition, your vet can give you specific advice on how to prevent reinfestation.
General tips on preventing worm infestation: stop your cat from eating wild life; groom regularly; keep flea-free; keep bedding clean; and get regular vet examination for worms.

Note that a fecal exam may not be enough to determine if a cat has worms. In particular, tapeworms are often not visible in a fecal exam.
 
 

Acetaminophen (Tylenol, paracetamol) (1 tablet can be fatal to an adult cat)
Benzocaine (the topical anesthetic) (available in spray and cream forms--- Lanacaine and several hemorrhoid preparations have lots of benzocaine)
Benzyl alcohol
Chlorinated hydrocarbons (like lindane, chlordane, etc.)
Hexachlorophene (found in pHiso-Hex soap, among others)
Methylene Blue (used to be used for urinary infections, many cats cannot tolerate it)
Phenazopyridine (used in combination with sulfa as AzoGantrisin: fine for humans, deadly for cats)
Phenytoin (=Dilantin) often used for seizures in other species
Phosphate enemas (including Fleet (tm) enemas): may be fatal
Medications that can be used in certain cats with restrictions, and ONLY on the advice of a vet
Aspirin: but not more than 1 baby aspirin (1/4 regular tablet) in 3 days!
Chloramphenicol: generally safe at doses of less than 50-100 mg 2x/day
Griseofulvin (=fulvicin)
Lidocaine: another topical anaesthetic
Megestrol acetate (Ovaban, Megace) may cause behavioral changes, breast cancer, diabetes. Extremely useful for some conditions, so use needs to be monitored.
Nonsteroidal Anti-inflammatory Agents (things like ibuprofen)-- tend to cause perforated ulcers. Banamine and aspirin are the best tolerated of this class of drugs
Pepto-bismol: too high in salicylates
Smooth muscle relaxants (like Lomotil): strange behavior
Tetracycline: may cause fever, diarrhea, depression; better antibiotics available
Thiacetarsamide (Caparsolate) used to treat heartworm in dogs
Thiamylal sodium (Biotal) used for brief surgeries. Animals become sensitized after repeat exposures. If you change vets, be SURE to get your records so that the new vet can tell if this drug has been used previously.
Urinary acidifiers; be careful of dosage.
 

Tartar buildup
Cats, like humans, have tartar buildup on their teeth called plaque. An accumulation of plaque can lead to peridontal (gum) problems, and the eventual loss of teeth. Plaque is a whitish-yellow deposit. Cats seem to accumulate plaque primarily on the exterior face of their upper teeth. Reddened gum lines can indicate irritation from plaque.
Some cats are more prone to plaque buildup than others. Some never need dental care, others need to have their teeth cleaned at regular intervals. Many vets encourage you to bring your cat in annually for teeth cleaning, using a general anesthetic. The cost, which can be considerable, and the risk of the anesthesia itself are both good incentives for doing some cat dental care at home.

If you must have the vet clean your cat's teeth, see if your vet is willing to try a mild sedative (rather than putting the cat under entirely) first when cleaning the teeth. If your cat is an older cat (5 years or more) and it must be put under, see if the vet will use a gas anesthesia rather than an injected form.

What you can do:

Brush your cat's teeth once a week. Use little cat toothbrushes, or soft child-size toothbrushes, and edible cat toothpaste (available at most vets or pet stores). Cats often hate to have their teeth brushed, so you may have to use a bath towel straight jacket and a helper. If you are skilled and have a compliant cat, you can clean its teeth using the same type of tool the human dentist does.
Root work
Cavities in cat teeth often occur just at or under the gum line. If your cat has an infected tooth, you will have to have root work done on it. It is typical to do x-rays after such a procedure to ensure that all of the roots have reabsorbed. If the roots haven't done so, then the infection can easily continue on up to the sinus and nasal passages and from there to the lungs. Such infections require long-term antibiotics.
Smelly breath
If your cat has smelly breath, there are various possible causes.
Teething: at about 6 months of age, cats will lose their baby teeth and get permanent ones. If the gums are red and puffy and you can see the points of teeth breaking through here and there, the cat is just teething and the odor will subside as the teeth come in.
Gingivitis: if the gums appear red and puffy and you've ruled teething out, your cat may have a gum infection of some sort. Take the cat to the vet.
Diet: certain foods, usually canned foods or prescription foods, can make your cat's breath smell. If possible, try changing your cat's diet.
Abscessed tooth: may show no symptoms other than smelly breath. Drooling sometimes occurs in conjunction. The cat must be taken to the vet to have the abscess drained and possibly the teeth involved removed. If this is not done, the infection can easily spread to the sinuses and cause the face to swell, especially just under the eyes.
 
 

Scratching
If the cat is scratching its ears and you can see black grit, that's probably ear mites. Consult your vet for appropriate ear drops. Ear mites stay in the ears, but can be passed from cat to cat, especially if they groom each other. The life cycle of an ear mite is entirely within the ear, so you do not have to worry about ridding your house of them the way you do fleas. Cats typically shake their heads when given the medication; unless the medication actually comes back out, that is OK. An additional step to take is to soak a cotton ball or pad in mineral oil (baby oil is fine), and clean out the outer ear (do not poke into the canal). That rids the upper ear of any ear mites lodged higher up than the canal, and makes it difficult for the ear mites to reestablish themselves.
Scratching and a discharge from the ears means a bacterial or fungal infection and the vet should be immediately consulted. Other possible causes of scratching include fleas, lice, eczema, allergies, or stud tail (in male cats).

Feline Acne
Cats can develop acne just as humans do. Usually it is only on the chin. It will appear as small black spots. The reasons for feline acne are as complex as it is for humans. Sometimes a food allergy (such as chocolate with humans or milk with cats) can cause it or sometimes the cat does not clean its chin properly.
Tips on caring for feline acne
It is important to keep food dishes clean. Acne has bacteria associated with it. The cat's chin comes in contact with the edge of the food/water bowl, leaving bacteria. The next time the cat uses the bowl, it can come in contact with this bacteria and spread it on the chin.
Use glass or metal food/water dishes. It is next to impossible to remove the bacteria from acne from plastic dishes.
Wash the food and water dishes daily. This removes the bacteria from the dishes and helps to keep the problem from getting worse. Also, in multi-cat households, it will help reduce the chance of others breaking out with it.
Bathe the cat's chin daily with a disinfectant soap/solution from the vet. Nolvasan, Xenodine, Betadine soaps are a few of the ones to try. More severe cases may need to be washed twice a day. DO NOT USE HUMAN ACNE SOLUTIONS, these are too strong for cats and may cause serious problems. Don't try to pick the spots off, just clean it well.
Visit the vet if you can't get the acne to clear up within a week or two or if the acne is severe or infected. The vet may prescribe antibiotics for these cats or other acne treatments.
Once the acne is cleared up, keep an eye out for reoccurrence. Washing the cat's chin once a week is a good preventative measure.
 

Ask your trusted former vet if s/he knows someone good in the new town. Often you'll get an excellent referral that way (I found my current vets because the senior partner was well known for his excellence in surgery).

If there's a local humane society or shelter, see if there are vets who volunteer their time there. Many vets who care about animals are often trustees and/or volunteer their services.

Check with any local breed associations: see who their members go to.

Look for memberships in associations like the American Animal Hospital Association (which has a fairly stiff inspection), Feline Practitioners Association, American Assoc. of Vet Cardiology, Animal Behavior Association, etc. These are usually people who have kept up with new developments.
 
 

Medicines for humans are often used for cats, both prescription and non-prescription drugs (phenobarbitol, lasix, amoxicillin, cold medications, etc.). When you hear that you should never give human medicines to cats, it means that you should not give them without first consulting your vet. Certain very common human drugs like aspirin and especially tylenol (acetaminophen) are deadly to cats, so don't give them any kind of medication unless recommended by the vet (note that aspirin can be given in very small doses, but you need to check correct dosage and frequency of administration).

A final cautionary note about this section. This is not meant to be a complete treatise on these various diseases. It is intended to familiarize you with the various major diseases your cat can develop. If your cat has any of these diseases, you should be in close contact with your vet, who will provide you with all the information you need