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One of the main engineering goals of the RX-7 was to stay close to the perfect 50/50 chassis balance. When they added the extra weight of a turbo system to the Turbo II model(180-200lbs), they needed to come up with a way to maintain the chassis weight balance as much as possible. Some of the methods they used include...

...They went to an Aluminum hood
...They moved the intercooler rearward to the top of the engine
...They used a heavier spare tire & jack

This just goes to show that the Mazda factory uses the same methods to balance their cars as the regular guy. They reduce the front weight as much as possible, then move components if possible, and finally add weight to the rear if needed, in that order.
This is the biggest reason the added 180-200lbs of the Turbo II option did not ruin the balance and handling of the RX-7. The factory decided that the extra power that the turbo system offered more than offset the added weight.
This is what power-to-weight ratios are all about.

Below is a list of the factory stock production weights with the rotary engine.
Below that, is a discription of an easy, back-yard way, to check the balance of your own ride.


RX-7 Production Weights (lbs.)

1979


Model S GS
Manual    5-Speed 2350 2385
Automatic 2450

1980

Model S GS LS
Manual    5-Speed 2350 2385 2385
Automatic 2410 2410

1981

Model S GS GSL
Manual    5-Speed 2380 2455
Automatic 2480

1982

Model S GS GSL
Manual    5-Speed 2335
Automatic 2360

1983

Model S GS GSL
Manual    5-Speed 2335
Automatic 2360

1984

Model S GS GSL GSL-SE
Manual    5-Speed 2335 2335 2640
Automatic

1985

Model S GS GSL GSL-SE
Manual    5-Speed 2335 2335 2640
Automatic

1986

Model Base/Sport Base/Sport 2+2 GXL GXL 2+2
Manual    5-Speed 2625 lb 2645 lb 2625 lb 2645 lb
Automatic 2695 lb 2715 lb 2695 lb 2695 lb

1987

Model Base & SE Base & SE 2+2 Sport GXL GXL 2+2 Turbo II
Manual    5-Speed 2625 lb 2645 lb 2625 lb 2625 lb 2645 lb 2845 lb
Automatic 2695 lb 2715 lb 2695 lb 2695 lb 2695 lb

1988

Model SE SE 2+2 GTU GXL GXL 2+2 Convert. Turbo II
Manual    5-Speed 2625 lb 2645 lb 2625 lb 2625 lb 2645 lb 3003 lb 2845 lb
Automatic 2695 lb 2715 lb 2695 lb 2695 lb 2715 lb 3053 lb

1989

Model GTU GTU S GXL GXL 2+2 Convert. Turbo II
Manual    5-Speed 2800 lb 2800 lb 2800 lb 2820 lb 3045 lb 3003 lb
Automatic 2844 lb 2844 lb 2844 lb 2864 lb 3105 lb

1990

Model GTU GTU S GXL GLL 2+2 Convert Turbo II
Manual    5-Speed 2800 lb 2800 lb 2800 lb 2820 lb 3045 lb 3003 lb
Automatic 2844 lb 2844 lb 2844 lb 2864 lb 3105 lb

1991

Model Coupe Convert. Turbo II
Manual    5-Speed 2787 lb 3071 lb 3003 lb
Automatic 2831 lb 3115 lb

1993

Model Base Touring R1
Manual    5-Speed 2789 2862 2800
Automatic 2857 2923

1994

Model Base Touring/PEG R2
Manual    5-Speed 2789 2862 2800
Automatic 2857 2923

1995

Model Base Touring/PEG R2
Manual    5-Speed 2789 2862 2800
Automatic 2857 2923


Balancing your RX-7 after an engine swap...

An easy backyard way to check your balance...

...Before finishing a conversion, effort should be put into achieving a 50/50 front to rear balance of weight in the car. The easy way to measure this is by weighing the front and rear axles separately. The target is equal weight on both ends of the car with the driver seated and the fuel tank 1/2 to 3/4 full. An easy way to achieve this at home is to support the car at a point midway between the front and rear axles on each side, with the tires slightly off the ground. Be sure to protect the underbody of the car from damage. An inverted 12" section of channel iron placed over the "frame rails" is usually sufficient. Use a short piece of 1" square tubing between the channel and the floor jack / jack stand for a pivot point (the use of square tubing prevents the car from rolling forward or backward on the pivots). With the driver seated in the car, an assistant can easily lift the front or add weight to the rear to determine the amount of weight that has to be moved / removed.

1. The best way is to remove weight from the front until the car balances. This provides for the lightest possible car. Easy ways are installing an aluminum hood, aluminum intake manifold, lite exhaust components, aluminum heads, lighter starter / flywheel, etc.

2. The second most desireable way to achieve balance is to move weight from the front of the car to the rear. The easiest heavy component to move is the battery. The farther back the weight is moved, the more effect it will have. If the battery is located inside the passenger compartment, use a sealed battery such as the "optima" and be sure to anchor it down securely. Loose batterys in an accident are VERY dangerous.

3. As a last resort, add weight to the extreme rear of the car. Lead securly fastened to the inside bottom of the spare tire well is an excellent choice. Try to place the weight as low and as far back as possible to get the most effect for the least weight.

Even if you choose not to balance the car, your distribution will still be better than stock Mustangs and Camaros.

Some weight related numbers...

...An aluminum intake manifold is 28lbs lighter than cast iron.
...Aluminum heads save about 50lbs over iron.
...An aluminum block will lose ya another 55 to 95lbs.
...A 4.3 V-6 is only 11 percent lighter than a V-8.
...An aluminum hood(turbo II)will save you about 30lbs.
...Headers are 20 some lbs lighter than iron manifolds and headpipes.
...The typical RX-7 A/C system weighs 55 lbs.


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