Many training principles are specific to the type of activity your dogs will be involved in, and there are hundreds of other variables, such as climate, terrain, age of the dog, breed of the dog, and so on. But all forms of mushing, with all the different variables, are wonderful ways of forming a close bond with your dogs.
In general, training can be thought of as falling into three categories: physical conditioning, mental conditioning and stimulation, and education. When you are planning your training for your kennel, think carefully about your goals and your dogs' abilities. Simply counting miles, for instance, can be deceptive. The type of conditions that the dogs encounter are important too-steep hills, trailbreaking in heavy snow, extreme temperatures, or wind. New mushers should consult books and experienced mushers for help. But also use common sense: would you ask yourself to dothe equivalent of what you are asking your dogs to do?
Physical conditioning. Do not expect your dogs to do more than they are ready for. Watch each individual. Dogs work as a team, but they have individual needs and abilities. Don't be afraid to be conservative, and don't worry about how far your neighbors or friends are going. Never push a dog to go any farther or faster than it is happily capable of going.
Have fun and build relationships with your dogs. Small teams are better for training. Depending on your preference and the size of your kennel, training teams might include only three dogs or as many as six to ten. Dogs can only run at their own pace and must never be pulled, whether by mechanical or other means.
Each dog needs some form of physical conditioning all year long. Provided your dogs are in good health, light training in the summer is fun and beneficial. Equipment options include a bicycle, cart, dog walker, four-wheel all-terrain vehicle, or a leash. For some dogs and mushers, running a few dogs loose may be an option. It is important always to use proper harness sizes and gangline lengths. Also with each run, check each dog for foot problems or injuries.
If you mush dogs in the summer, be sure the dogs are well hydrated before and after the runs. Wetting them down beforehand with a hose or with creek or lake water can be a good idea. It is best to exercise sled dogs during the coolest time of the day, and even then watch carefully for overheating. Signs of heat stress are heavy panting with an open trachea, gait change, wobbly legs or other sign of weakness, and vomiting. If you are concerned that a dog might have heat stress, remove the dog from the team and carry it in your sled. Check its temperature with a rectal thermometer as soon as you finish the run. Dogs routinely have temperatures of 103 to 106 degrees F while running, so don't be surprised by this (normal is 101 to 102 degrees F). However, recheck it every fifteen to thirty minutes. If the dog's temperature is still not normal an hour after the run, call your veterinarian, since you could have a serious problem. If you need to cool a dog down, in summer wet it with cool water, or in winter pack its body in snow; continue to monitor its temperature.
Mental conditioning. It is important to give your dogs mental stimulation all year around. They need more than proper food and housing-it is necessary to give them something to do. Physical conditioning provides mental stimulation also, but other ideas are tying them so that they can play with each other, bringing them indoors for a visit, playing with them in their area, and taking individuals on outings.
In summer, you might check out some dog training books from the library and try different techniques for teaching simple tricks such as or sitting jumping up on top of a dog house. The learning process will help training continue smoothly in the winter, and the day-by-day, step-by-step progress will keep your dogs an active part of your summer life. Different dogs will enjoy different activities, but each dog needs individual attention.
Education. Education does not need to go on year around or daily. Much of this is done when they are young. However, anything you do repetitively with a dog is educating it, so be sure you want them to learn what you are teaching. Think over the signals you are giving your dogs. For instance, if you want your dogs to pass well, don't stop and chat with the neighbor every time you pass-you'll be teaching your dogs to stop at every pass. Be sure that most of your interaction with your dogs is positive to offset any discipline that you may feel is necessary.
It is important never to lose your temper with your dogs. Try to educate them in a calm, consistent and decisive manner, not angrily. Try all other methods of training before any physical discipline is used. For example, if a dog is not pulling well in a large team, reduce the size of the team and put that dog in wheel position for a week. If a dog continually plays with the dog next to it while running, and thus distracts the whole team, run that dog alone for a few weeks. Remember that repetition is a great teacher. If your leader is not taking gees/haws well, go out with a very small team and work on commands. Always praise the dogs a lot when they are doing what you want.
Physical discipline is not necessary in order to have well-behaved dogs. A beginning musher should gain a year or two of training experience to learn the complexities of dog training before attempting any physical form of discipline.
Discipline can come in many forms: speaking harshly to a dog, spanking with a flexible object, and so on. When used correctly, discipline can be a tool in a dog's education. Each dog is different; some react strongly to a simple harsh word, and others pay no heed. Even with physical discipline, the intent is never to cause serious pain or injury. Always use something small that will not cause injury, such as your winter mitten, a willow switch, or a signal whip. Never use a chain or piece of wood, for example. Never strike a dog around the eyes, as this could cause serious damage, even with something soft.
Physical discipline should only be used when the dog understands what is expected of it. Some mushers like to use a signal whip for a quick, light spanking; some prefer to give a quick bite to the ear of the dog (as an imitation of a mother dog's discipline). Either way, no real pain is necessary; you are simply emphasizing your spoken word. Among wolves, discipline is usually enforced through the appearance of ferocity, rather than actual pain. In disciplining sled dogs, putting on a good show of ferocity can be an effective means of getting your point across safely.
Physical discipline should comprise a very small part of the dogs' mushing and training. If a dog can't figure out what you want in one or two training sessions, you are doing something wrong. Stop before you ruin a good dog. Think about whether your dog understands what you expect of it. If not, find a new and positive way to get the same message across. Always use positive training if possible.
Many stories of old-time mushing have filtered down over the years, and we hear of mushers using 6- to 12-foot-long whips and hitting dogs with hard objects. Whether these incidents ever really happened or not, they have no place in modern sled dog sports. The dogs bred and used today are eager to run and pull and eager to please. This is natural and instinctive in them. They make wonderful companions and need to be treated as such. Many mushers believe that the relationship gained by working with dogs goes beyond other purely pet dog relationships.
Dog fights. From the dogs' viewpoint, a fight is to the finish, so it is essential to stop the fight before a dog is seriously injured. Individual mushers prefer different methods: a loud noise, a pail of water in the face (in summer), a blow to the nose with something flexible to break the dog's grip. Another possibility is a crack of a whip-the dogs will often quit out of fear rather than pain. The dogs must be separated and restrained. Dog fights are also dangerous for the musher, so be very careful.
When you start your training season, go on short runs with easily controllable teams, for ΒΌ to 3 miles in length with many rest stops. Decrease the rest stops in subsequent runs as the dogs get in better shape. Most mushers like to start on some kind of wheeled rig before the snow comes. Make sure that the rig has good brakes to slow the dogs down and that you have some method available for a parking brake. Four-wheelers are widely used because they give the musher a lot of control over the dogs' speed and steer easier than a cart. They also have lights, which provide safety in darkness, especially along roads, and they make noise, which warns wildlife of the team's approach. A speedometer can be a nice extra on any type of training vehicle.
As you increase your mileage, do so in small increments. If you have run the same distance for a period of time and the dogs are coming home strong and happy, it is time to move up to the next step. In early fall training, don't push the speed too much, as the dogs' muscles are not well toned yet, and it is easy to injure them. The goal of early training is to build up each dog's muscle structure to prevent injury later in the season.
Any training schedule must include rest days to allow time to build muscle. You might run a dog every other day, or run two days followed by a day off. Water (or broth) your dogs when you return from a training run, and be sure to check for worn pads due to running on gravel or pavement.
Once you are working on snow, continue to build slowly to the distance and speed of your choice. Always check each dog's feet, and give them plenty of water or broth. It is not good enough to let them bite snow for their fluids.
Remember that not all injuries are easy to detect. A dog does not always show a substantial limp, so watch carefully for all the subtle signs. If a dog is doing poorer today than it was last week, you should suspect an injury or illness. Dogs don't just suddenly perform worse. A back can be injured without causing a limp, or a dog can be so excited to run that it will not show any signs of injury while running. You may be able to catch some problems by watching the dogs at home.
Detecting injuries or illnesses early can keep your team healthy and working all season and can even save you money. At least once a week, check each dog over carefully in the daylight or with a bright light. Get used to what is normal for each dog's condition so that it is easy to detect any changes. Consult your veterinarian or another expert if you suspect any problems.
Booties should be used to prevent injuries on rough trails, including when snow crystals are abrasive in severely cold weather. If your dogs' feet develop any signs of worn pads or soreness, use booties on those feet until the problem is completely healed. You might consider not running the dog at all for a short while, depending on the severity of the problem. Be sure the booties fit well. A bootie that is too large flops around, picks up snowballs, and makes it difficult for the dog to run normally. A bootie that is too small can constrict the foot and be uncomfortable.
Be sure to check booties regularly. A bootie with a hole in it can cause more problems than no bootie at all. Also pick off all snow and ice balls around the tops of the booties frequently, as these can cause severe chafing. If your dog has dewclaws, also watch for signs of wear around them. (Dewclaws can be removed from adult dogs by your veterinarian.) Remember that booties are not a cure-all for every foot problem. Consult your veterinarian or an experienced musher for further advice.
In extremely cold or windy conditions, dogs can get frostbitten on some body parts. On a male, watch the sheath of the penis and the scrotum. On a female, watch the nipples, flanks, and vulva. Be extra careful with any female that whelped over the summer. Her nipples are usually somewhat enlarged through the whole winter and therefore more susceptible to problems. Many types of equipment are available for protecting these areas, such as jackets, belly pads, and fur sheath protectors. Contact a mushing equipment company or other local mushers for ideas. Remember that males and females have very different problems, and the same equipment does not always suit all dogs.
Long-distance racing. Before you think about preparing for and running a long-distance race for the first time, look over your skills carefully. You will need to be good at winter camping with dogs, starting campfires at -50 degrees F with a strong wind blowing, applying first aid to dogs and yourself or another musher should you get caught between checkpoints, and so on. You will need to have advanced skills in handling however many dogs you choose to start the race with. (In your first race, it is better to start with fewer dogs. A smaller team is easier to control and means fewer dogs to feed and care for.) You need to be skilled in feeding and foot care during high-mileage situations. The time to learn these things is during training, not out on the race trail.
To run a thousand-mile sled dog race, you should have at least 1,500 miles of training in the season on each dog. These miles should be put on in no less than a six-month period. To run in a 200- to 500-mile race, you should have at least 750 miles of training on each dog. These miles should be put on in no less than a four-month period. Much of the training should be done to duplicate your proposed racing situation-weight in the sled, some four- to six-hour runs, camping trips, and so on. It is inadvisable to run any dogs under 18 months old in a thousand-mile race. The ability of each dog in the team should be fairly equal so that no one dog is being pushed too hard. Teach your dogs to eat, drink, and sleep in harness before you race them. Feed them the same diet that they will race with, at least during the latter stages of training.
Recreational mushing. Training a recreational team can be one of the most satisfying parts of your life-it will certainly be one of the most expensive, both in time and money. So keep your priorities straight, share the work among family members, and have fun!
Think before you begin: If you want a dog team for your family to enjoy, consider everyone's goals for the team. If you have small children, you may want to select dogs that are small and gentle so the kids are comfortable with them. Some older, well-trained retired dogs from another team may be perfect for you, and they can help train younger dogs.
Make your dog time quality time for your family. Chart the accomplishments of each dog. In the summer, you might have a weekly dog show to demonstrate each dog's new tricks. Having a small number of dogs allows you to give each individual lots of attention. The dogs will learn that they have fun with you, and they will be eager to please. Seeing your dogs thrive on this special attention, watching your family share the responsibilities, learning the satisfaction of doing a job well, and experiencing the magic of bonding with animals will be your rewards.
In winter, plan your methods of training and goals for your team together. Listen, talk, encourage, and reward. Have fun and don't be afraid to ask for help. Practice "whoa" and "come haw" repeatedly, until the dogs do them easily. This will give the less experienced members of your family a better sense of security. You may want to work with the dogs on a leash, rewarding them for correct behavior.
Take a family member with you on the sled. A less experienced passenger can help out and also learn what you ask of the dogs. Make sure your passenger is comfortable. After the dogs are settled down, let your passenger drive the team on a safe stretch of trail. Always train with small, controllable teams. Gradually increase your distance over the winter. Explore new trails. This gives your dogs experience in different conditions: breaking trail, running into open water and on ice, and turning around. Take a picnic along. Stop along the trail and build a campfire.
Your family might enjoy working toward taking the team on an overnight trip, either camping out or staying in a remote cabin. This could be a spring celebration after a winter's training. Remember that you don't have to go a thousand miles. Plan according to the abilities and desires of your family and the endurance built up by your dogs. Your joy and accomplishment will come in the journey, not the journey's end. Your team may be better trained than those in the races-a little slower, no doubt-but what's your hurry? You're having fun!
Skijoring. Skijoring is one of the simplest forms of dog driving, but common sense, patience, and general training principles still apply. Stay within your dog's capabilities for weight load, speed, and distance. Be aware that some dogs (including experienced sled dogs) can be quite frightened by the strangeness of the skis, and a dog may need extra time and lots of positive reinforcement before it will accept being followed by them. At all costs, avoid running into your dog with your skis or ski poles.
Proper equipment is important both for your own safety and for the comfort of your dog. Use a wide skijoring belt (at least 3 inches wide across the back) and a releasable skijoring line at least 7 feet in length. Longer lines (up to about 15 or 20 feet) work well for recreational skijoring and hilly terrain. Shorter lines give better control and are favored for racing; just be sure the line is long enough to prevent the tips of your skis from hitting the dog. A line with a shock (bungee) cord incorporated into it will absorb the stress of sudden starts and stops, a benefit to both you and your dog. Use a properly fitted, standard X-back or H-back mushing harness. Weight-pulling harnesses are not recommended.
A wide variety of dog breeds have been used successfully for skijoring. If you skijor with a non-Northern breed, be extra watchful for foot problems. Some breeds of dogs, especially those with silky coats, are particularly prone to ice balls. Booties may be necessary in some cases. Also, a short-haired dog may need a dog coat and/or a sleeping pad in very cold weather or when camping out.
Sprint racing. To create a quality team, sprint racers use the same training and conditioning techniques as those used for other types of mushing. Distance and speed should be built up slowly on a schedule determined by your dogs' progressive conditioning and willingness. It is better to err on the conservative side than to risk hurting a dog-physically or mentally-by asking for more than it is ready to do.
While speed may be the primary objective in sprint racing, not every training run should be at top speed. To prevent injuries in the fall, the dogs should be physically conditioned with slower working runs before you allow them to run fast. Throughout the race season, keep varying your training speeds, and your dogs will be more willing to go fast when asked.
Proper manners and well-behaved dogs are a must for a top-performing sprint team. Even the quickest stop for a tangle or problem dog is a major disadvantage in a race. Take the time required to teach your dogs the necessary behavioral skills. Some sprint mushers simply concentrate on maintaining enthusiasm in their team. But a well-behaved and enthusiastic team is very possible to have and is the ultimate goal.
Weight pulling. A weight pull dog must be strong, sound, and in good health. It should have a desire to please, and before a dog is entered in a weight pull competition, it should have at least basic training and be in good physical shape. A dog that is in poor condition might pull beyond its physical abilities simply because it wants to please or because of the excitement of the activity. Avoid heavy pulling until your dog has an opportunity to get in shape.
Conditioning can be accomplished in various ways: running in a team, running alongside a car or bicycle, skijoring, or pulling a tire. Perhaps the best method is for your dog to pull a tire with increasingly heavy loads. Be very careful to increase the loads gradually. This is important for mental as well as physical conditioning. A dog must know that when it is commanded to pull, the load will move. Many factors influence the ease with which a dog can pull: weight of the load, snow depth and conditions, and temperature. As you train, adjust the load downward if your dog has difficulty starting the load. Alternate days of pulling with days of running with a light tire.
You can't begin too early to train your dog to pull. A young puppy can learn to have fun wearing a harness and pulling an empty box around. Use this time to teach some basic commands, such as those to pull, whoa, and perhaps gee and haw, as well as to sit, lay down, and stay. Be careful not to let the box bump into the dog or let the dragging noise frighten it. Gradually increase the weight the dog pulls-progress from a piece of firewood to a 12-inch tire, for instance. Give the command to pull; let the dog pull a short distance; and then lavish it with praise. Make it fun. Your dog will pull for the fun of it and because it knows it pleases you. Be sure to let your dog know that you are pleased with its effort.
Dogs should not be entered in competition until they are at least a year old; large breeds should wait until a year and a half. This gives them time to reach skeletal maturity. When the time comes to enter a weight pull competition, your dog will know what is expected and will be ready to do it well.
Winter transportation. Some mushers use their teams for traveling cross-country, doing fieldwork for their jobs, freighting supplies, running traplines, and general winter transportation. Training these teams may focus on building endurance and strength and on mushing in severe weather conditions. It is critical that the dogs learn to whoa, wait in harness, and find old trails in drifts. They need to learn to follow along behind their musher when he or she is breaking trail on snowshoes, and they must learn to ignore animals caught in traps. These abilities come by working with small teams, day after day.
Often mushers who depend on their dogs for winter transportation have a very close relationship with their teams, and the trust and appreciation that has developed from many hours, many days, and many seasons together creates a team that seems to be able to go anywhere and do anything. This is not magic-it is the result of clear communication and consistent, repetitive reinforcement.
The Puppy Rearing section discusses harness training at 5 to 8 months of age. Although this is the ideal time, you can harness train an adult of any age if you want to teach it to pull recreationally.