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I hope this page helps to clear up some of the questions you might have when performing this conversion. I have taken information from a recent article in Petersons 4 Wheel & Off Road magazine, (May 2000, Pg. 116) and from Brian Lackey's website. (I will have to disagree with Brian on the spindles being available at JC Whitney though. When I called them, they had no knowledge of the spindles). His page has a lot of great info and I recommend you visit it! 

Also after a little research I found that doing the conversion using the stock master cylinder and pulling the spring and valve as indicated in the Peterson's Wild Horses article, you will be disappointed with  the results of your braking power. (You have to use a lot of pedal travel to achieve good stopping force.) I highly recommend going with a bigger master cylinder, (something with a 1 1/8" bore or larger.) and a booster. I am currently looking for a different M.C. myself to provide better stopping power. I will update the page after I figure this out.

The Backing Plates as received from the junk yard. bckng plts1.jpg (72466 bytes)
Here looking new after a bit of clean up and paint bckng plts2.jpg (57753 bytes)
I picked up these backing plates at the junk yard for 60 bucks. I chose the thicker style plate for its durability. The other style which has a thin mud shields tack welded to the bracket seemed to be a bit flimsy but would work fine. These came out of a 77 Chevy blazer. (or at least that is what I asked for.) You need to be sure and look at the parts you get carefully! I found that there is two different backspacing depths on the plates, and if you get one that is too shallow, it wont allow for the brake pad to fit between the caliper and rotor.
The Chevy Spindles spndls4.jpg (74562 bytes)
Another View spndls3.jpg (73308 bytes)
The Chevy spindles were taken from a 77 Chevy blazer also. I had the guys at Action Auto Wrecking pull both the spindles and backing plates together, (However I had to get different backing plates from another wrecking yard due to back spacing depth.) Initially the first set of spindles were bad due to scoring on the bearing races. So I had to get another set. The second set were in much better condition. I had all new bearings pressed into the spindles. It cost six bucks at Stan's Alignment. The plates and spindles cost $140.00 total.
Ford Rotors Front View rtrs1.jpg (69501 bytes)
Rear View rtrs2.jpg (70167 bytes)
The rotors were taken from a 78 ford bronco. I was originally gonna order the rotors and hubs separately , but after a bit of research, I discovered that Truck Ford Parts had a set in stock for $180.00. They offered to turn the rotors at very little cost. The hubs were the expensive part. I looked for them at most of the auto part stores, but they weren't in stock in most of the parts stores, and the ones that could get them, they wanted tons of money for them! I had Stan's Alignment also press new bearings into the hubs. But beware, provide your own bearings. Stan's has a higher cost on them. (They treated me real well when I told them my cost on the rear bearings, and gave me their cost on the outers.)
Chevy Calipers Image11.jpg (279810 bytes)
Another View. Image14.jpg (268970 bytes)
The picture to the left shows the calipers mounted to the backing plates, but it turns out this particular set of backing plates had the wrong back spacing so the pads wouldn't fit. After more research, I found the correct backing plates off a '77 Chevy Blazer.
The correct backing plates Image19.jpg (291873 bytes)
A full side view Image22.jpg (272049 bytes)
Here is the correct Backing plate with the caliper and pads mounted.
Here is a top view. Image24.jpg (297181 bytes)
Another top view Image25.jpg (284173 bytes)
I wanted to try and show a shot of how the brake hose attached to the caliper and stock steal lines. I would recommend just avoiding the hassle of trying to find one that will fit, and just ordering the Wild Horses version. The cost is the same, and it has all the correct fittings to make it work with the stock bracketry and clips. these were $29.00 ea. well worth it IMO.

Note: some of the parts mentioned below are approximated. (because I misplaced the receipts) but it will give you a good idea of the part #s and cost of the components it took to do this conversion. The key to doing this conversion is patience! (especially if you plan on doing all the legwork your self). As I had mentioned earlier, it was difficult to find some of the parts. (Pay close attn to the backing plates and spindles.) But it will all be worth it once it is complete.

The Chevy Parts list:

The Ford Parts List:


Backing Plates: (77 Blazer) $60.00 at Chevy Truck Parts.
Spindles: (77 Blazer) $45.00 at Chevy Truck parts.
spindle Bearings: (#B110) at Napa.
Calipers: (left:  C502 90078)                  
(right: C503 90077)  $13.00 ea. at Auto Zone.
Brake Hoses: (Custom) $29.00 ea. Wild Horses Off Road.
Brake Pads: (Standard Chevy Pads) $11.00  Auto Zone.
Brake Pins: (#82204) $7.00 ea. at Napa
Brake Kit: (#82102)
Banjo Bolts (x2): (7/16-20 x 1 1/16) $2.00 ea. at Auto Zone

Hubs / Rotors: $80.00 ea. at Truck Ford Parts.
Inner Bearings: (Timken set37) $9.00 ea at Auto Zone
Outer Bearings: (Timken set35) $9.00 ea at Auto Zone
Knuckle Bolts Grade 8 (x12):(7/16-20 x 1 1/4") $.40 ea at Eagle Hardware.
Axle Bolts Grade 8 (x2): (7/16-20 x 1") $.40 ea at Eagle Hardware.
Washers (x2): (1 1/4 w/ 7/16 hole) $.30 ea at Eagle Hardware.
Truck Ford Parts
3300 West Hampden
Englewood CO. 80110
(303) 781 7865

Stan's Alignment
1520 Chester Street
Aurora, CO. 80010
(303) 343 1424


Chevy Truck Parts (Attn: Doug)
5187 Fillmore
Denver CO. 80216
(303) 298 7278

Action Auto Wrecking
18000 East 14th Ave.
Aurora CO.80011
(303) 364 7002

 

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This page will be updated as I find new info on master cylinders  to add.

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