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DAY 1: GIVERNY and ROUEN
CLICK on the image to visit the site of GIVERNY
Today we will visit two sites: the museum and the gardens of Claud Monet in Giverny and the capital of Haute Normandy - Rouen (remember Joan d'Arc?). The best days for the trip are: Wednesday, Friday-Sunday.
Leave your Parisian home as earlier as possible. Your train will leave Gare Saint Lazare at 08:16. At 09:02 the train will arrive to Vernon. Leave your train and ask about the stop of the bus to Giverny. Buy the two-way ticket (it will cost much cheaper). Ask the driver about the back bus timetable (you have to come back to take the train to Rouen at 12:51).
The Museum of Claud Monet opens its gates at 9:30 a.m. 30/03-01/11 (closed Monday). The place is open from April to October. You can choose to visit the gardens only (the price of the ticket will be 1.5 Euro lower - 5.5). Personally, I was impressed - hardly impressed - by gardens. The visit of the house is not really worth. But if you are there - add 1.5 E and visit it too to prevent the thoughts "if I lost something".
Monet had bought this piece of land in 1893. The gardens were opened for the visitors (after the restoration works) in 1980's.
Monet had built two gardens - Clos Normandian and Water Garden. In the first, every season you can find different flowers. Roses - in June and July, dahlias - from July to October and so on. The second garden with mysterious lake and well-known Japanese bridge hosts water lilies and other waterphile plants. When Monet first had planted lilies, the peasants were against it. They thought it could poison the waters. Today these lilies bring prosperity to the whole region.
Try to avoid of the visit of the museum in Tuesday and Thursday. These days are very crowded, because of the vast of the groups.
Bring your photo or video camera. Otherwise, you will not forgive yourself.
To learn more information about the gardens, visit non-profit site about Giverny and Vernon:
If you have enough time and a car, you can try the visit of Vernon too. But if you want enough time for Rouen, the only place I can recommend you is the Musee Americain (the same opening hours as Monet's). Entry fee - 5 Euros, 4 - reduced. It's situated on the same street as Monet's museum. Paintings of American impressionists are there.
Now take a bus to the Gare. Remember that your train to Rouen departs at 12:51. In 13:36 you'll arrive to Rouen.
Many Gothics meet you. In some places you will feel yourself like in London. I suppose, you will find a big contrast between Parisian and Rouenian styles.
I think, your first picture will be the one of train station. It's a very nice building. Don't miss it!
Begin your trip from rue Jeanne d'Arc. Go straight and then take left on rue du Dongon. On your left you will see a massive la Tour Jeanne d'Arc. This one is a part of the massive castle (1200's). Jean was held here before she was executed. You can visit her museum in the Tour (10:00-12:00, 14:00-17:00, except Tuesday). 2 Euros - fee.
Continue your walk on rue du Dongon. When you arrive to road intersection, take right and on rue du Baillage take left. Later, turn right and you will find Musee des Beaux Arts. It hosts paintings from XV-XX centuries. Fee - 3 Euros (10-18, except Tues). On the opposite side of the square - Musee le Secq des Tournelles (keys' and other iron-made objects' museum). Fee - 2 Euros (10-13, 14-18, exc Tues).
Continue your walk by rue Jean Lecaunet untill your arrive to a big square. It hosts very impressive Hotel de Ville with a lot of fountains. Close to that you will find Eglise St Ouen(15/03-31/10 10-12.30, 14-18, exc - Tues; winter - Wed, Sat and Sun - only). Nice park is along rue des Faulx. The eglise represents XIV century's high Gothic style. You need special zoom to make a good photo. Entrance hours are the same like in the previous sites.
Now, ask the people the way to rue Victor Hugo. Walk that street and then turn right on rue Martainville. Now you are almost in the heart of the ancient town. At 186 rue Martainville you will find the Aitre St Maclou (8-20 daily, free). Here the victims of plague were buried. The atmosphere of mortality is everywhere. On the opposite side of rue Martainville you will see XV century Renaissancial Eglise St Maclou(from 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. ( 5.30 p.m. from November to February) ; from 3 p.m. to 5.30 p.m. on Sunday and public holidays. Closed on January 1st, May 1st, July 14th and November 11th).
After the Eglise follow by rue Martainville, cross rue de la Republique and continue your walk by rue St Romain. Immediately you will find Cathedrale Notre Dame(8-19, 18 -Sun). It was erected in XIII-XV centuries. Claud Monet's paintings of different parts of the Cathedrale can be found on the next web addresses:
Pay your attention to the vast of the half-timbered buildings on your left and your right. I had made here a lot of pictures of them.
After the Cathedrale cross over the rue des Carmes and continue your walk with rue du Gros Horloge. At the end - a big medieval clock. There, take right on rue des Juifs. Here, you will find restored and beautifully ornated Palais de Justice (XVI century). It was heavily damaged during the last war. Now, as I said, it was restorated to its medieval glory. In Saturdays at 14:30 you can visit Monument Juif (situated under the courtyard). That place was used as synagogue in 1100's.
Now cross over rue Jeanne d'Arc and go straight by rue du Gros Horloge to Place du Vieux Marche. Here Joan d'Arc was executed. The modern-style Eglise Jeanne d'Arc (from 9.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. from May 1st to September 15th ; the rest of the year from 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. excepting Monday )
is hardly identified as church. The place around is plenty of good enough non-expensive restaurants. You can eat here from 19:00 only. Nobody will serve you before.
If you need accomodation, I'd recommend you Hotel Viking (with a lift) on 21 Quai de la Havre. Tel. 0235703495. Ask the room with a river view. The hotel is not far from train station (15 minutes of walking by rue Jeanne d'Arc).
Some people, I met, were pleased by Hotel de la Cathedrale. 023571579524.
After you have eaten and have found your hotel, make some promenade. Visit again the Cathedrale - it's beautifully lighted at the night. Don't miss it!!!
For recreation you can find a lot of bars and cafes inside the ancient town. Myself, I had preferred to go home, because I had felt a bit unsafe in the night Rouen. Maybe, I had mistaken.
A lot of the information about the performances, hotels (including prices), restaurants and sites you can find in the site of maire de Rouen:
Recommendations of Books
Monet
This book portrays Monet's work and vast influence in its historical perspective as it charts his life and career. Over 300 paintings illustrate his artistic experiments as well as his most successful works.
Claude Monet : 1840-1926 (Big Art Series)
Published on the occasion of the most comprehensive retrospective yet mounted of Monet's work, this catalog is stocked with more than 200 superb color reproductions and a 70-page illustrated chronology. They have also included reproductions of many significant paintings unavailable for loan to the museum, making this volume the most up-to-date and complete guide to Monet's superlative oeuvre, hence its status as a Book-of-the-Month Club title.
Claude Monet : Life and Art
This lavishly illustrated book presents the first complete overview of the life, art, and times of the quintessential Impressionist. Tucker, one of our foremost authorities on Monet, offers a striking new view of the artist, showing him to be a far more complicated figure than previously acknowledged, fiercely competitive and ambitious, as well as sensitive and inventive.
Joan of Arc
Twain was fascinated by Joan. He spent 12 years in research and made many attempts before finally getting the story right. He wanted to laud Joan for her unique role in history. Marc Twain considered his work not only his most important but also his best work, spending 12 years in research and many months in France doing archival research. This book is must to read.
Joan of Arc : Her Story
It isnt a biography per se and doesn't follow the standard biographical format of piecing together the available sources to present readers with a chronological narrative. Rather, Pernoud and Clin introduce readers to Joan as she.
Jeanne D'Arc
An interesting book about the life of Jeanne d'Arc - the woman who saved France and king.
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