Randilyn's Guide to Ball Pythons

 

    I think ball pythons (python regius) are one of the most interesting snakes out in the world today. They are very calm, almost shy, and are good pets. What's even better is that there are so many different kinds of ball pythons out there! The possibilities of morphs is practically endless! This page has info about  how to properly care for a ball python in captivity. If you have questions please Email me! 

Ball Python Size: Ball pythons usually range from 3 to 4 ft in length with a very short tail. They are a very heavy bodied snake, thick in the middle when full grown.

Ball Python Age: I cant be sure on the age of ball pythons as I have never kept one its whole life, but from what I have heard its around 30 years, yes this is a large commitment!

Feeding: Baby ball pythons do great feeding on fuzzy size mice. Then gradually they move to larger size, pinkie to hopper to juvenile, to young adult, to adult, then eventually to rats. In the wild the snakes feed on wild mice, gerbils or hamsters. You really should try to feed your ball dead mice, pre killed or thawed out  frozen mice as it is safer for your snake.

    When your getting ready to feed your ball python you should wash your hands! Then take the snake out of it's regular cage and place it in another cage, used just for feeding.  Then place the dead mouse in the cage with the snake and hopefully the snake will take the mouse easily and your done. Now just wait until the snake is totally done and begins to slither around the cage. Take the snake out and replace it in its regular cage and try not to handle the snake for  the next 24 hours.

Housing: 

Cages: I like to keep my ball pythons in a 20 gal long cage. I keep them separately to reduce stress. A 20 gallon tank will keep a ball python comfortably for its whole adult life. When its still a hatchling you should keep it in a 10 gal, then when it grows out of that move up to a 20 or 30 gallon cage. I have screen tops on my cages but I'm soon getting plastic ones to help keep humidity in. You can use aquariums with screen tops but custom made cages or commercial reptile cages are better.

Hide Boxes: The cage should have at least one hide box (hide boxes can be purchased at a pet store or can be made from clay pots or cardboard boxes, look at this link  for more info) on the warm end of the cage and/or one hide box on the cool end of the cage. You might be wondering why you need a cool end of a cage and a warm end. The snake needs to be able to adjust its temperature so if you have two different temps it can adjust itself by moving around from hide box to hide box. I made a warm end of the cage by placing a heating pad under one third of the cage and the cool end doesn't have one. But I keep my snakes in the basement so I also have to heat the cool end with a overhead 40w light bulb or it becomes to cold. But generally most people don't need that unless they are in a cold basement.

 Water Bowl: A large water bowl should be in the middle of the cage or on one end. It should be large enough for the snake to curl up in and soak itself, ball pythons do this often. The water should be refilled every single day, always make sure there is  fresh water!

Subtrate: Subtrate is not hard to make or get a hold of. I use a product called Lizard Litter. It is harmless if digested and it looks natural. Other good subtrates are newspaper, aspen shavings, or just about anything you can find at a pet store. Sand does not make a good subtrate for ball pythons. DO NOT use cedar shavings or chips! It is very harmful to any reptile!

Other Accessories: Plants, climbing branches, and waterfalls are all optional. They add to the natural setting of the cage. If you do decide to add some make sure they are stable and safe for ball pythons. Some plants are toxic to snakes. Be careful when placing climbing branches in. Make sure its stable and not to high of the ground, if your snake falls it can be hurt.

Temps: Ball pythons should be kept at  a day time gradient of 78 deg. F. on the cool end upward to 90-92 deg. F. on the warm end. During the winter you can lower the temp just ever so slightly. A basking spot should be available with temps around 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit during the day with 85 at night.

Humidity: Ball pythons are native to very warm, but not hot, dry areas in Africa. Many people make the mistake of trying to keep them in a too humid overall environment, using damp sphagnum moss or misting them frequently throughout the day. The problem with this is that keeping the overall environment damp leads to conditions such as blister disease where in the skin, usually of the belly, becomes covered with blisters, leading to bacterial infections of the skin, which in turn leads to overall health problems. Do not worry about keeping a distinct humidity level, you'll notice if the snake becomes to dry, such as cracking of the eyes or dry skin, when you notice this begins to mist the cage lightly and it will go away or make a humidity box.

Handling: I handle my snakes just about every other day with the exception Friday and Thursday. (that's after they have eaten) I usually never keep them out for more than an hour or so, but sometimes they give me a clue that they want to be back in their cages, like when they bite at you or thrash their tail about. A new ball python just put into it's new cage shouldn't be held of feed for at least a week, it needs time to adjust to its new environment. After that it should be feed, then wait another day then see how your snake likes to be handled. I've gotten to the point, with my first ball python, that I can just put him on my neck after school and then walk around doing this and that without worrying about him. The next thing I know its time for bed and he's still on my neck! He will literally stay on my neck for hours, but not for anyone else. Some ball pythons like certain people and don't like others, each ball python does have it's own personality! I don't recommend long hours of neck hanging unless your snake is very adjusted to its settings and gets along well with hanging and sleeping on people. Be sure to watch your snake when you have it out...I recently had an escape.

 

References:

The Ball Python Manual, by Philippe de Vosjoli, Dave and Tracy Barker, and Roger Klingenberg, 1995. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside CA.
Snakes of the World, by Scott Weidensaul. 1991. Chartwell Books, Seacacus, NJ.
Melissa Kaplan's Guide to Animals