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I think ball pythons (python regius) are one of the most interesting snakes out in the world today. They are very calm, almost shy, and are good pets. What's even better is that there are so many different kinds of ball pythons out there! The possibilities of morphs is practically endless! This page has info about how to properly care for a ball python in captivity. If you have questions please Email me! Ball Python Size: Ball pythons usually range from 3 to 4 ft in length with a very short tail. They are a very heavy bodied snake, thick in the middle when full grown. Ball Python Age: I cant be sure on the age of ball pythons as I have never kept one its whole life, but from what I have heard its around 30 years, yes this is a large commitment! Feeding: Baby ball pythons do great feeding on fuzzy size mice. Then gradually they move to larger size, pinkie to hopper to juvenile, to young adult, to adult, then eventually to rats. In the wild the snakes feed on wild mice, gerbils or hamsters. You really should try to feed your ball dead mice, pre killed or thawed out frozen mice as it is safer for your snake. When your getting ready to feed your ball python you should wash your hands! Then take the snake out of it's regular cage and place it in another cage, used just for feeding. Then place the dead mouse in the cage with the snake and hopefully the snake will take the mouse easily and your done. Now just wait until the snake is totally done and begins to slither around the cage. Take the snake out and replace it in its regular cage and try not to handle the snake for the next 24 hours. Housing:
Temps: Ball pythons should be kept at a day time gradient of 78 deg. F. on the cool end upward to 90-92 deg. F. on the warm end. During the winter you can lower the temp just ever so slightly. A basking spot should be available with temps around 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit during the day with 85 at night. Humidity: Ball pythons are native to very warm, but not hot, dry areas in Africa. Many people make the mistake of trying to keep them in a too humid overall environment, using damp sphagnum moss or misting them frequently throughout the day. The problem with this is that keeping the overall environment damp leads to conditions such as blister disease where in the skin, usually of the belly, becomes covered with blisters, leading to bacterial infections of the skin, which in turn leads to overall health problems. Do not worry about keeping a distinct humidity level, you'll notice if the snake becomes to dry, such as cracking of the eyes or dry skin, when you notice this begins to mist the cage lightly and it will go away or make a humidity box. Handling: I handle my snakes just about every other day with the exception Friday and Thursday. (that's after they have eaten) I usually never keep them out for more than an hour or so, but sometimes they give me a clue that they want to be back in their cages, like when they bite at you or thrash their tail about. A new ball python just put into it's new cage shouldn't be held of feed for at least a week, it needs time to adjust to its new environment. After that it should be feed, then wait another day then see how your snake likes to be handled. I've gotten to the point, with my first ball python, that I can just put him on my neck after school and then walk around doing this and that without worrying about him. The next thing I know its time for bed and he's still on my neck! He will literally stay on my neck for hours, but not for anyone else. Some ball pythons like certain people and don't like others, each ball python does have it's own personality! I don't recommend long hours of neck hanging unless your snake is very adjusted to its settings and gets along well with hanging and sleeping on people. Be sure to watch your snake when you have it out...I recently had an escape.
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