Have a question? Send to Mike at AWM
Q. Is there anything that can get
rid of these Carpenter Bees?
A. YES, There is a product called
"Drione" that is available though Acme
Wood-Magic. It is
a dust that is safe enough to put on your dog and cat but let
me tell you it puts
a hurtin on those bees. This is especially effective for
treating the nests.
Check out our section on
Carpenter Bees
for more details.
Q. Can Men-Wood be applied over other
stains?
A. NO. All previous stains and water
repellent products must be removed prior to
applying Men-Wood.
This is done by using "Ultra Kleen" and Power Washing.
Refer to
Preparing the Substrate
for more information.
Q. I have a brand new home. Does
it still need to be pressure washed before I
stain?
A. YES! Even though it is new wood and
perhaps clean in appearance there is a
film or mill
glaze that must be removed by either power washing or sanding.
This glaze
will prevent the Men-Wood or any other product from penetrating
properly thus
causing premature failure of the product and causing the
homeowner additional
expense to remove the product and start over.
Q. I have some areas around knots
that are turning white after they dry,
assuming this
is just those areas that are not saturated, does this mean I need
to keep applying
the product until it takes?
A. Generally in New wood, knots are
not very absorbent. There for the stain
tends to sit on
top and look shinny. If this is the case there's no point in
reapplying on those
knots as more product will not make it penetrate. In older
/aged wood, the
knots are the most absorbent part on the log and you could
put 5 coats on the
knots and they will still look as thought they need more. As
far as white? I'
ve never seen knots turn white, I hope that you did not use
bleach to clean your
home and the white you see around these areas are
residues. This could
cause problems with mold . If you mean bare like they are
dry, where the stain
has penetrated in, then just take a brush and go over the
knots again. When
I'm spraying logs and trim, once the wall is done, as I'm
coming back down
and see the stain has penetrated in I just hit them again.
Then when I'm back
brushing, again. Same thing on the second coat.
Q. I've applied two coats to my home
but the front seems much more dried out
and is soaking
up everything I put on it. Should I apply a third coat?
A. If you have followed the application guide lines you shouldn't need a third coat, however...... in some cases when the substrate has been left exposed for a long period of time (5yrs or more) with out adequate protection, a third coat is possible.
What you are experiencing is normal
where the south/west sides are dried and tend to be more absorbent and the
north/east side a little less absorbent. This is due to two things: (A) the
fact that the sun does not get the chance to work on the wood's surface as
long as it does on the south /west sides. (B) And because of that the moisture
content of the wood is a few percent higher on the north / east sides.
Example: On a log home I recently
did, the Moisture content on the north /east sides were 16-18% and
south / west sides 12-14 %. I used more stain to cover the south / west sides
and the north / east sides, but got a uniform look.
Finally a third coat may not penetrate as well because the wood is well saturated with protection already, and if it is "slick and shinny" after curing on the surface, dirt and other airborne substances tend to stick to these areas quicker. Men-Wood is a penetrating product. There is nothing the manufacturer puts in the product to give you the slick or shinny appearance.
Q. Is it absolutely necessary to
add additional insecticide and mildewcides in the
Men-wood stain? Aren't
there additives in the product already to protect
against insects,
mold and mildew?
A. To answer the second part of the
question first, yes there are insecticides and
mildewcides added
to the product already, however the EPA and other
regulatory commissions
only allow a certain amount of certain additives to be
used. Men-Wood
and some other manufacturers of stains use the latest
technology to combat
these elements. I suggest that you spend the small
amount to put the
extra mildewcide and insecticide in the top coat, especially if
you live in an area
where it is humid and are prone to insect inhabitation. For
additional information
on mold and mildew I strongly suggest viewing and
printing out the circular
from the National Paint and Coatings Association on
that subject.
Click Here to View
Q. The one "Big Question" everyone
always wants to know is.... Click
THANKS FOR VISITING THE FAQ PAGE.
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