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Behind the Myth: The natural kink or crimp of the fiber allows the fabric to stretch out with steam, or recover to its natural state. It molds, eases, shapes, and shrinks with steam. The Truth: One of wool's greatest properties is that it can absorb up to 30% of its weight without feeling wet. That means that steam will actually puff up the fabric. To keep its shape properly, you need to dry the fabric after steam is applied. The Solution: One of my favorite sewing academics is Cecelia Podolak, from Canada. She taught me how she applies moisture to a specific area, and then drys it out with what she calls a dauber. We do this by making a little tool, a water swab for transferring some water directly where we want it. Cut a 3-4" wide piece of wool, about 10-12" long, depending on the thickness ... less for coating, more for wool flannel. Roll the piece up, and tie it with a few wraps of heavy thread. Now just dip the swab "dauber," in water, and then blot the water where you want it. With your iron on "dry", or no steam, dry the fabric out. Particularly when you want edges to be flat and seams to be pressed open well, it's important that the moisture be dried out of the fabric. You don't need to deliver tons of steam to a whole area. Behind the Myth: Your iron glides great on teflon. The Truth: You don't slide your iron often when you sew, you press and steam. Teflon and similar other coatings on your ironing board cover prevent steam from penetrating through your fabrics. That's why old ironing boards were wooden, and the modern metal ones have holes. Teflon can put shine on your woolens, make your fusibles, bubble, and increase the heat given off by an iron set to a lower setting for synthetics. The Solution: Get rid of the teflon cover and substitute a good all cotton cover. Either make your own, or buy one. You can wash it and keep it fresh longer too. | ||
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"If you're going to sew woolens, you need an iron that gives off lots and lots of steam.'' 
"A tefIon ironing board cover is the latest technology."