Which is the best look for you?

Boxy jacket? Straight legs? Short jacket? Wide legs?

Does the first woman (above) weigh twenty pounds less than the second one? You'd think so wouldn't you?

Notice here what happens when wide-leg pants are combined with a boxy jacket. I frequenty see this on very large women and it's not that unusual for women who don't sew, because they're stuck with buying pants that fit "around" the waist and hips, but are generally cut for a taller figure.

You can see in the first figure that once the tummy, hip and thigh area are covered by the third layer, the pants can be narrowed considerably and a much slimmer look is the result.

In the third figure, if you shorten the third layer, you can improve the proportion of wide legs a bit, and in the fourth figure you see how the shorter jacket looks with a narrower leg.

Finally, even though the fourth and fifth figures both have the same width leg the fifth figure has a higher crotch line and looks better than the fourth, because it has been adjusted for the figure's height.

The first figure still looks best, doesn't it? (Personally, I wouldn't ever wear versions 2, 3 or 4!)

Important things to consider:

  • Width of pants legs in relationship to the tops
  • The "drag" of the third layer (jacket) against the pants
  • Length of the third layer with pants
  • Fabric choice for the pants
  • Underlining requirements for the jackets (So-Sheer, Sofknit, or Textured Weft)

Fashion Sewing Group patterns are designed for each of the jackets to work with the pants pattern #1961. The longer jackets (similar to 1945, 1945A) are shaped at the waist and the short jacket (1962) is long enough to cover your tummy and lengthen your leg line.

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Copyright © 2001. Nancy Erickson Consulting