1964 426W HPP
This site will serve as a Reference Resource for restoring my 1964 Dodge D-100 HPP equipped truck.
on the truck -
click to see The Restoration Journal
The Truck - this photo was taken in November 1965. it is of my mother, Barbara, driving her pride and joy - the 426SW powered 1964 D100 featured in this journal. the person reflected in the door is my sister Mary who was in her early teens at the time of the photo. this is how i want the truck to look when it is done.
Return to CSS Registry or 64 D100 home page.
|The Restoration Journal -
|Phase 5 - Body
UPS man delivered a nice care package from Chicago’s very own Andy
Mikonis this week. Andy was able to get all my emblems and both set of
mirror stems chrome plated for me – check out the photos below.
Everything look very nice and will match all the other plating I had done
down in St. Pete.
since September i have been busy on several fronts splitting my time on projects that are fairweather safe and stuff i can do when the weather is not so fair.
Hood - i have been struggling with a decision on which hood to use. i have fixed most of the rust on the original but there is a TON of body work left to do to it that is probably beyond my skill level and event then will still look bad. i bought another hood from Jeff Thomas that has much less rust but has the dreaded drip rail dents. i was working on a trade for yet a third hood but that deal appears to have not worked out. anyway i decided to try my hand at bumping the dents on the second hood and to my surprise i was able to get 90% of it out and not have it "oil can". i am now in the process of repairing the little bit of rust on it and will strip the paint when the weather is good.
electrical - i have most of the electrical things sorted out - all that is left is the radio, running lights and taillights. everything else is working including the glove box light and cigar lighter!
Tires - i pulled the trigger and bought a full set of tires for the truck - my air holders were looking questionable. i bought a set of thin white walls on 70's width to give the truck its sleeper looks again.i painted the old cop wheels a light creamy tan. the tires were hard to find in the size i wanted - 235-70-15 but Town Tire here in gainesville was able to accomodate my needs. photos below. i plan on using the orginal style hub cap - 50s plymouth. the white walls even met with approval from Kelleen!
|2008-07 thru 09 - lots o' stuff
August and September have been busy months on the old truck project. First
of all I would like to say thanks for my co-workers Charlie and Mike for
their help in flipping my new truck bed over (twice). It allowed me to
finish stripping all the under coating and paint off and then let me prime
and line the bottom of it. It also allowed me to finish fit the maple
blocks in their proper location. I could not have done all that without
|2008-06-15 - The Seat
got the seat back last week and put it in this weekend – my neighbor
Richard Miles helped me put it in.
|2008-06-08 - It's ALIVE!
was able to get the 440 wired and fired it up yesterday.
|5/2008 - Tach Sender
One of my many thoughts on this truck is I want a vintage look under the hood and I did not want to put the modern mopar electronics under the hood. I bought a pertronix ignition system for the old dual point distributor so all that was left was how to hide the electronic voltage regulator. I bought a Ron Francis wire harness and the kit came with a Ford regulator. Since it was part of the kit I was simply going to hide it under the dash but when cleaning up the Sun Tach sender I had a brainstorm. It looked like the Ford regulator may actually fit inside the sender box. I had upgraded the tach to modern electronics while keeping the vintage vibe so the sender would be on the fender as a dummy anyway. So I dove both feet in started measuring and broke out the dremel. The results are surprising. I had to trim the corners of the regulator and cut a slot in the side of the sender as well as “gut” the electronics out of the sender. It seems like the camouflage will work quite well. I’ll still run the original tach sender wires and the new regulator wires will be obscured by the hood hinge.
|1-2008 thru 4/2008 - mechanicals
much has happened over the past four months that I don’t know where
|8-2007 thru 12/2007 - the cab
a bit has happened since my last post. I have been working on the truck
with every spare minute I have in an effort to drive the truck to the
2008 Mopar Nationals in Ohio. My wife has been very supportive and would
very much like to see the truck completed as well. In the following photos
you will notice the many of the various thing I have accomplished. This
biggest thing is getting the firewall, underside and inside of the cab
painted. This has allowed me to start hanging parts on the cab such as
the dash, sterring column and wheel, Ron Francis fuse block and start
sorting out the brakes. I also bought a hidden AC compressor kit from
Bouchillion Peformance. Their instruction suck and the washers they supplied
were the wrong size but everything else fit. Note that the alternator
and water pump pulley will be either cleaned and painted or replaced.
|7-7-2007 - Fenders Primed
the fenders and core support this week. i am starting to really get a
feel for the painting of the panels. the primer is very forgiving and
i have only created a couple minor runs in spots that won't be seen. i
may leave them since they look like many of the runs i have seen here
and there on the truck.
|7-1-2007 - Body
on priming a few parts for the truck - the cab is primed and placed on
the frame. the Dash, trans tunnel cover and cowl guard are in place and
primed. they are not bolted down but merely resting in place to hold them
while i work on the core support, fenders and door shells. it is slowly
starting to take shape! now i get to start knocking out dings and dents
and mudding the dings that won't knock out.
|5-2007 - Body
a week off from work to do a few things around the house and work on the
the next thing is
we bought a tractor with the help of Kelleen's parents. it is a Montana
brand Rseries 4344. it uses a Mitsubishi 4 cylinder diesel and comes equipped
with 4WD, 16x16 gear drive and shuttle shift, front end loaded and a host
of other goodies. this should help save an imense amount of time on weekends
when mowing season starts up and will free up more time to work on the
|2-2007 - Engine
plugging away on the resto project.
|3-2006 - start on body work, misc update
started stripping the paint a grim from the cab these past months. i have
the under floor section stripped and painted with rust encapulator as a
primer. it looks awesome and seems very durable.
i also have the fender i bought from Terry Holcomb de-undercoated. i used a wood chisel and a putty scapper to chip is all away. i'll start stripping the paint once i can get more encapsulator on hand. because my time on the project is divided i will start using spray bombs to paint with since i pretty much wasted a whole gallon of the paint from it just sitting. i think in the end the spray bombs will save me money until i can get it all "in prime". once it is all in prime i can do larger areas with bulk paint.
with the help of terry winkler and his brother Kerry i was able to located and purchase a bare 426 block from a really nice person name John Deitle. part of the sale also include a chrome air cleaner and valve covers. John lives in MO and Terry picked it up for me. Kerry will drop off the block on his way back from a visit with Terry so shipping is quite reasonable! this will shift my priorities some and the 440 my brother donated will give up its rotating assembly. i'll have to purchase some pistons and have the block line bored but i think this is a better way to go in the end and now it will have a 426 in it again for the first time since 1968! hopefully this one will last longer than the first one.
i will keep plugging along with the project and scrapping undercoating for the next few weeks. the block should be here the first of april and i promise to post pics of that event!
|Phase 4- Frame
|12-2005 - More frame assembly
much new to report... but here's an update on everything...
i am still plating bolts and assembling frame brackets and cross members. it is slow going but the results are turning out nicely - photos to come soon...
i bought a frame reinforcment that goes between the engine frame stubs. this will go a long way to help prevent future frame cracks in this location since it ties both side together. i also bought a rust free right front fender, a left front chrome trim piece for the hood to ensure i have a straight one in case the dent does not come out on the original part and some frame bumpers for the springs.
once the frame is fully assembled i am either going to rebuild the transmission or start stripping the new cab of all the grease and grime. i am having trouble deciding what is the best approach. since i have not done a 727 before i may tackle it later and work towards getting the body components roughed in now that i have all the key parts. this way i can rought everything in and get it all primed and all panels straight. then take it all apart again and cut in the panels with paint. knowing eveything fits.
i am excited about everything that has happened this year - from seeing Terry Winkler's truck come together, seeing it in person in Columbus Ohio and then see it appearing in the Feb '06 MoparAction and in the Jan '06 Mopar Collector's Guide to getting the frame where it is now. much to do and enjoying every minute of it!
|01-2005 thru 11-2005 - Clean and paint frame
for the long delay in updating this journal. i have run out of server space
so the photos i can post are some what limited for now. i will make some
time this winter and redo this whole section of the site for more room on
Details of the past year:
- I have been busy working on the farm - cleaning up all the downed tree, fence work, new out building, mowing, etc.
- i have cleaned, painted and detailed the whole frame and most of the crossmembers and suspension components.
- My work on the CSS Registry has added several new trucks and i went to the Mopar Nats in August to see Terry Winkler's 64 D100 HPP truck - talk about inspiration! I also met Matt Mugno, Dan Goldhardt and several other Sweptline enthuiasts. it was a great time!
Process to cleaning and painting the frame:
- first thing i did was pressure wash the frame and suspension. there was 40 years of grease, grime, dirt, lime rock, sand and gunk.
- after that i scrubbed it with simple green and then i pressure washed it two more times.
- then i finished taking the suspension and all crossmembers off and got it down to a completly bare frame with not a single nut or bolt on it. to move it around i used furniture dollys and blocks of wood to set it up higher.
- after it was mostly degreased i sandblasted the frame. that got most of the petrified undercoating and paint off. i also did all the parts the same way except i used a bench grinder with a wire wheel attachment - it made easy work of paint and grease and did not hurt the natural finish of the metal.
- on the frame after it was sandblasted i used my 3/8 drill and a couple different wire wheels and went to work on the whole thing to get the soft undercoating the blaster could not get. i got it to bright metal with all this work using the drill.
- then came the tedious part. with a tooth brush sized wire brush, a screw driver, a putty knife and a larger wire brush i scoured every knook and cranny for more grease grime and undercoating.
- once that was done i wiped it all down with laquer thinner and then did it again.
- once it was sufficiently prepped i sprayed it with Eastwood Rust encapsulator.
- i top coated it with Eastwood chassis black. i left most of the suspension components the flat black rust encapsulator for a variety of finishes in an effort to emulate factory finishes.
- the original bolts are all tin/zinc plated using a kit from eastwood.
- i installed new bronze bushing in the spindles.
- i installed the front disc brake kit i purchased from AAJ Brakes.
All in all i am feeling very positive about the hurdle i just crossed with the project. there are several more suspension parts that need to be painted and its fasteners plated or painted. once those are done i will start on redoing the Engine and Transmision.
|Phase 3 - Body work
|11-04 - 12-04 - cab work
has happened since my last update. i have been cleaning up the yard from
seven total trees down. i have also done some work on the truck>
rearranged the shop, the home garage and outdoor work area. i can now keep the truck in the home garage and store my parts piles in the work shop.
i corrected the striker areas on the new cab
i fixed the cowl rust areas
i made a trailer to finish prepping, stripping the cab and easily move around - it is now stored in the outdoor work area under cover until the frame is ready for it.
i pressure washed the frame.
i stared sand blasting the frame.
|09-26-04 - Hurricane Jeanne
|we had another visit from an uninvited guest this week - a hurricane named Jeanne dumped only 10 inches of rain this time and we lost our power before she left. we also had 2 trees down and countless linbs on the ground. storms go away!
|09-06-04 - Hurricane Francis
|we had a visit from an uninvited guest from the tropics this week - a hurricane named francis dumped 16 inches of rain and we lost our power before she left. we also had 3 trees down and countless linbs on the ground. the 2003 ram we recently bought suffered a dent in the tailgate but the 64 truck did fine.
|week of 07-25-04 - fix - dash & tailgate - disc kit rec'd
i found the proper screws for the tailgate and repaired the fasteners in the bed to accomodate the new ones. still need to line it up but at least i can move it around and remove it easily.
my parents installed an am/fm 8 track radio in the truck. i wanted an original radio so i made a patch out of an old dash and welded it in. i am very pleased with my welding skills!.
i ordered a disc brake kit from AAJ - really nice setup. i need to buy some aspen rotors and then i can install the whole set up.
|week of 06-28-04 - new doors from CA
a pair of doors on ebay. Dan in Tarpon had a truck being shipped from
CA so shipping was FREE! my dad also came up the following weekend and
saw my progress for the first time. he was shocked and proud. he helped
me weld up some holes in the bed and fit the strikers for the doors.
bought a really nice pair of CUSTOM emblems for the doors
|week of 03-28-04 - old doors mounted on cab
|this week i mounted the old door on the cab and checked them for fit. everything looks good. i need to figure out how to set up the strikers for the old style doors to this new style cab. the old doors are way to rusty to work with and decided to buy some from ebay.
|Phase 2 - Clean and repair frame and cab
|week of 03-01-04 - Cab Modifications and Dry fit of big parts
am in-between jobs this week so i took advantage of the time off and worked
on my truck - i got a huge amount of work done on it. in the photos you
will notice the spliced parts are painted with bloxide weldable primer
(silver). i cleaned and stripped all the "new" sheet metal pieces.
the tunnel cover and hump are from my rusted out D100 cab. the bed has
only minor surface rust. all the black parts are from my truck - not much
of the old truck left!
maybe i am being too
much of a perfectionist - i can't decide! i am sure all my negative feelings
will subside when it is Black and Beautiful and i turn the key and go.
|02-20-04 - time off - parts collecting
have taken the past few weeks off from the truck to work on some fences
and find another job. my day job has been going in a different direction
and it was time for a change.
|01-01-04 - frame repair - power steering hose layout
for the month long delay in updates. i have been busy with both home improvements,
my demanding day job, and the truck project.
I borrowed my friend Mike Nelson's car trailer and transported the frame to my parents on Dec 28th. I had a few problems towing with my 98 dakota so this left me with very little time for visiting with the family - i could not tow any faster than 60 mph and had to make a couple cool-off stops along the way so the trip took an extra hour each way. My dad was involved in an accident earlier in the month so he was still recovering from the shock - good to see he was ok.
I was able to use my dad's stick welder to repair the crack on the passenger side.
Before i drug the trailer down to St. Pete I borrowed some of Mike's time and he pressure washed the frame.
Even after a thorough pressure wash it is still very grimy (nearly 40 years of grime on that frame!). I started scrubbing it with a degreaser and a wire brush. In doing so I discovered two more cracks on the driver's side where an earlier crack was repaired.
To repair these complicated new cracks i decided that a good approach would be to make a couple of gussets out of angle iron and some flat stock. I made them in such a way that when welded with my mig the edges of the weld would still be in-board of any frame rail edges. this way i could minimize any stress risers and still add strength to the area. basically i tied the engine cross member to the bottom edge of the frame to spread the load out across the bottom. I think the big problem is the springs load the frame about a foot and a half on each side of the motor's cross members and those cross members contact the bottom edge with a small footprint and two rivet holes. the torque and weight of the big block motor sits right on the point where the frame bumpers have weakened a critical stress point of the frame. I am sure that this area will always be a problem so i will have to keep an eye on it.
Fat Man Fabrications makes a Mustang II independent front suspension set up for hot rods that may be a good solution for this area - however - i want to stick to using only bolt-on type mods and the fat man set up is a weld in deal. So my plan for now is fix as described (see photos) and keep a watchful eye on these problem areas. if they com back then re-evaluate and see what the options are at that time.
|Phase 1 - Disassembly
|12-04-03 - update
am prepping the frame for transport down to my parents to weld the small
crack in the frame.
i have stripped the chassis wires out and i have also noted how rotten they are - see photo for route through frame.
i have also taken a short break from the truck to update the CSS registry and add a "What is a CSS?" page. I have had a number of questions on what is SERT and what HPP and CSS mean.
i have also been doing some home improvements - gotta have a life outside my dodge :)
|11-16-03 - cab is off the frame!
the help of my friend Cardin and my brother Hobie we were able to remove
the front and rear windows - all without breaking them!
|11-2-03 - 11-7-03 - misc work
work on different fronts:
- i worked on finishing
the disassembly of the "old" cab.
- i started disassembling
the motor. special NOTES:
- i finally invested
in a engine lift and removed the bed from the frame. the frame is in great
shape and should turn out nice when cleaned and painted.
|10-21-03 - new cab is here
new cab is here. i am very impressed with britt and his quality service.
the cab is nice a solid. no rust in the critical areas. two small rust holes
under the dash in the corner of the cowl - easy fix. there are some slight
differences between the two -
- note the photos that compare the two column holes - the new one is about 4" lower
- the center tunnel has a bigger hole in the new one. i will have to cut the old one out and use part of it.
- the door strikers are different and have larger area for them to sit in.
all of these are very minor and should be easy fixes for a pro so we will see how well i do :-)
|10-19-03 - dash and column out - seat and wipers out
cab is now nearly ready for removal. i removed the steering column, dash,
all wires, heater unit, seat, gas tank, visors, rear view mirror and push
buttons. left for removal and storage is the glass, cab bolts and isolators,
doors, parking brake lever, drip rail chrome and misc small parts.
|10-15-03 - interior disassembly and new cab on its way
photos don't show much but this week i worked hard on marking and unplugging
wires under the dash. i also started on removing the column. the wire harness
will need some serious TLC before going back in. there are a number of wires
that were melted as well as hard soldered to each other complicating removal.
i will repair and replace where i can. the photos note how the top driver
side wire colors were oriented.
as an aside - i noted earlier that i ordered a cab from Britt in Cool, CA. BAX global is handling the shipment of the part. they seem to be great and i talked to keith in sacramento - nice and helpful. i tried using a friend of a friend but it would have cost the same amount and increase the duration of time before i would see the part. it should be here the week of the 20th. Mike nelson is receiving it at his shop and we will clean it up before bringing it home.
|10-03-03 - bed bolts and start on interior disassembly
worked on removing the tailgate hinges. they are rusted solid and i stripped
the heads using my impact driver. i got some advice from the dodgesweptline.org
web board that i am going to try on the left side and i have a woodworking
tool to make sure the ratchet doesn't walk out after heating - it should
create a positive engagement of the fastener. i was also able to figure
out that the inner assembly for the hinge is a bolt-in unit that probably
carries a part number. i will do some research on finding another but between
the two beds i have i am certain i can fabricate something. the old tail
gate is very straight but very rusty. i am torn on what to do as the "new"
parts are solid but have a slight bend in them around the tailgate area.
the old parts have razor sharp lines but are so rusty that i am sure they
are not salvageable - i am leaning towards the "new" parts and
doing my best to clean up the lines.
the bed is ready to be lifted off the frame. the right front carriage bolt spun in the bed so i used my trusty nut splitter and was able to save the bolt. something to note here - the wood for this bolt was rotted and nearly gone. i will surely need to inspect the frame for rust. from underneath it looked fine and did not seem to suffer any ill effects. this was probably the cause of a solid clunk in hard right turns the truck would make in it prime. i would imagine the bed would shift slightly on its perch. the new bed has wood blocks that are in very good condition.
i also started disassembling the dash. i labeled all the wires behind the gauges, bagged all the screws, and removed the glove box door. the alternator wires were taped together - i think this was my dad's short term solution when the gauge shorted when i was driving to sebring back many years ago when i was in high school - i always wondered what he did for that problem and now i know! my spare H.D. gauge set will surely come in handy when i go back together.
|10-02-03 - new cab on order
|i have bit the bullet and sent a money order to "Britt in Cool" for a rust free cab. Britt seems like a stand-up guy and i will let you know when i see the cab. my cab is nearly gone from rust and my skills in saving it are probably limited at best. the floors are shot along with the steps, the drip rail and worst of all the cowl. i am certain i can fix the floors and steps but the cowl and roof are probably beyond repair. i got some advice from some friends "in the know" and they both feel that no matter what i do, any rust i fix will surely come back. since i am going to the frame on this project i better do it right or not do it at all. Britt is prepping the cab for transport this weekend and will ship it out next week. this purchase represents the last of the money from the sale of the 65 340 Valiant project car (thanks Phil - i spent it all in four places!).
|09-23-03 - rear end area disassembly work in progress
worked on removing the rear tail lights - pain in the arse! i was able to
pull the right side out but i did not realize there were built-in spring
tabs that held the bezels in place. the right side bezel's tabs broke off
and distorted the bezel slightly. it looks like an easy repair but i guess
Dodge did not intend for people to take these out - ever! i have made a
tool to remove the left side bezel but i will need to enlist some help as
it is somewhat difficult to get to both sides of the light while laying
under the bed with one arm up inside the rear light panel.
to maintain productivity i removed the rear bumper and started removing the home made hitch. the bumper is off and the hitch will follow soon.
|09-11-03 - left fender, core support and inner fender removed
pulled the left fender and core support off today. my dad had a 4 core radiator
custom built for the truck and it will need some work before going back
on. the fend is pretty much junk - the rust is as bad as the right side
fender but the left side has a pretty severe dent in it. the parts Andy
found has a near perfect left fender with on minor dent in it.
Special Note for reassembly - the inner fender would not come out unless the core support and fender and/or power steering is removed.
the inner fender and battery tray are in good shape and will be reused. the core support had holes drilled in it to enhance cooling - i may or may not reuse this. the other one has some rust but the latch bracket mount bolt point has a ripped area in it.
|08-25-03 - Load new bed on trailer to start repair
|My friend Michael Nelson loaned me a little flatbed trailer to use so that i can move the "new" bed around easily. He also had a rack from a dakota pickup that i used to lift the bed off the ground so the lower portions of the bed won't get damaged when not on the trailer. i also made up a trailer hitch for my garden tractor to move the trailer around easily. i jacked the bed up and slid the rack under it and used two by fours and lag bolts to mount it to the rack. i then jacked that assembly up and slid the trailer under it and used my come-a-long to winch it up onto the trailer. it took a awhile to do but i was quite impressed that my little tractor could pull it around.
- Repair bottom of right fender
|I created a patch panel for the lower portion. it turned out ok but i needed to do it in two pieces to get the angle and curves i needed. i am using a book by jim richardson for reference. a very good book for beginner body people. all the welds and imperfections will be easily covered by a thin amount of filler.
- Repair top of right fender
|i welded up the top portion of the right fender. i had to make a patch panel and used my eastwood shrinker/stretcher to get the curve just right and my drill mounted nibbler to cut the piece into shape. i used an eastwood vice mounted metal brake to get the 90 degree bends in it. i am very pleased with the tools i bought from the sale of my little Valiant. i bought a Lincoln WeldPak 135 from Lowes home improvement and i am using flux core wire - it turned out nice. i think if i can find the money and use gas with regular wire i would have had better results but i am very satisfied with the results so far. the metal on this truck is THICK! very forgiving for a rank amateur welder :) i used my angle grinder to knock down all the welds.
- Right fender off
|moved the fender into the workshop. i also practiced welding some more in preparation of patching the "old" fender. i am confident i will either do a good job or really mess it up. the metal is so thick on this truck i used a hack saw to cut the rust out of the fender!
|08-03-03 - Remove right fender
|i pulled the right front fender off today. had to buy a nut splitter to get the lower fender strut off with out hurting the strut or the unique philips head bolt. came off with out a hitch. i have decided to polish my welding skills on this fender as the "new" one from ebay is dented up fairly well. if i screw up this fender by welding it i can fall back to the "new" one and try my hand at dent removal.
|07-15-03 - Begin
|this is a fun day - the day i dive in. i spent the day documenting the truck with my company's digital camera and i decided i need one of my own. i removed the front grille and headlight housings. i am feeling excited but apprehensive - this is a big task ahead but i am confident i can do it!
- - Home - - Registry - - What is a CSS? - - Register your CSS - - Links - -