| The
Restoration Journal -
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|
2008-9 | 2006-7 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 |
| Phase
1 - Disassembly |
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| 12-04-03
- update |
 |
i
am prepping the frame for transport down to my parents to weld the small
crack in the frame.
i have stripped the chassis wires out and i have also noted how rotten they
are - see photo for route through frame.
i have also taken a short break from the truck to update the CSS registry
and add a "What is a CSS?" page.
I have had a number of questions on what is SERT and what HPP and CSS mean.
i have also been doing some home improvements - gotta have a life outside
my dodge :) |
| 11-16-03
- cab is off the frame! |
 |
with
the help of my friend Cardin and my brother Hobie we were able to remove
the front and rear windows - all without breaking them!
also with Cardin's help we removed the doors and placed them on the new
cab for safe storage and to check fit.
we also removed the rusty cab from the frame. the old worn out 440 motor
is all apart and ready for removal from the frame.
next up - time to clean the frame and weld a small crack. |
| 11-2-03
- 11-7-03 - misc work |
 |
more
work on different fronts:
- i went to Don Garlitt's annual mopar show. i found a real nice grille
and sold a pair of b-body manifolds - thanks to mike and friend's booth
o' parts
- i finished disassembling the "new" cab.
- i worked on finishing
the disassembly of the "old" cab.
- i removed:
--- the chrome drip rail - it was all that was holding the roof together!
very rusty under it but it is in excellent shape.
--- brake pedal - NOTE: the use of a return spring (see photos)
- i started disassembling
the motor. special NOTES:
--- note the carb/kickdown linkage - custom made by dodge factory when
my dad complained about it at time of delivery.
--- power steering bracket
- i finally invested
in a engine lift and removed the bed from the frame. the frame is in great
shape and should turn out nice when cleaned and painted.
|
| 10-21-03
- new cab is here |
 |
the
new cab is here. i am very impressed with britt and his quality service.
the cab is nice and solid. no rust in the critical areas. two small rust holes
under the dash in the corner of the cowl - easy fix. there are some slight
differences between the two -
- note the photos that compare the two column holes - the new one is about
4" lower
- the center tunnel has a bigger hole in the new one. i will have to cut
the old one out and use part of it.
- the door strikers are different and have larger area for them to sit in.
all of these are very minor and should be easy fixes for a pro so we will
see how well i do :-) |
| 10-19-03
- dash and column out - seat and wipers
out |
 |
the
cab is now nearly ready for removal. i removed the steering column, dash,
all wires, heater unit, seat, gas tank, visors, rear view mirror and push
buttons. left for removal and storage is the glass, cab bolts and isolators,
doors, parking brake lever, drip rail chrome and misc small parts.
I had to cut some wires in the dash harness as it was snaked through holes
here and would not allow me to release the column from the cab. i hated
to do it but i had to. i hope the "new" cab has wires in good
shape that i can borrow from...
the push button control has a reverse switch that got fried or shorted
some how but the other mechanisms are fine.
notice all the leaves in the cowl - this is what did the cab in. my parents
home in st. pete has oak trees and this truck was parked under them for
years.
i also included photos of the shelves i built to store all my parts while
i work on the truck. they are very heavy duty and easy to build. |
| 10-15-03
- interior disassembly and new cab
on its way |
 |
the
photos don't show much but this week i worked hard on marking and unplugging
wires under the dash. i also started on removing the column. the wire harness
will need some serious TLC before going back in. there are a number of wires
that were melted as well as hard soldered to each other complicating removal.
i will repair and replace where i can. the photos note how the top driver
side wire colors were oriented.
as an aside - i noted earlier that i ordered a cab from Britt in Cool, CA.
BAX global is handling the shipment of the part. they seem to be great and
i talked to keith in sacramento - nice and helpful. i tried using a friend
of a friend but it would have cost the same amount and increase the duration
of time before i would see the part. it should be here the week of the 20th.
Mike nelson is receiving it at his shop and we will clean it up before bringing
it home. |
| 10-03-03
- bed bolts and start on interior
disassembly |
 |
I
worked on removing the tailgate hinges. they are rusted solid and i stripped
the heads using my impact driver. i got some advice from the dodgesweptline.org
web board that i am going to try on the left side and i have a woodworking
tool to make sure the ratchet doesn't walk out after heating - it should
create a positive engagement of the fastener. i was also able to figure
out that the inner assembly for the hinge is a bolt-in unit that probably
carries a part number. i will do some research on finding another but between
the two beds i have i am certain i can fabricate something. the old tail
gate is very straight but very rusty. i am torn on what to do as the "new"
parts are solid but have a slight bend in them around the tailgate area.
the old parts have razor sharp lines but are so rusty that i am sure they
are not salvageable - i am leaning towards the "new" parts and
doing my best to clean up the lines.
the bed is ready to be lifted off the frame. the right front carriage bolt
spun in the bed so i used my trusty nut splitter and was able to save the
bolt. something to note here - the wood for this bolt was
rotted and nearly gone. i will surely need to inspect the frame for rust.
from underneath it looked fine and did not seem to suffer any ill effects.
this was probably the cause of a solid clunk in hard right turns the truck
would make in it prime. i would imagine the bed would shift slightly on
its perch. the new bed has wood blocks that are in very good condition.
i also started disassembling the dash. i labeled all the wires behind the
gauges, bagged all the screws, and removed the glove box door. the alternator
wires were taped together - i think this was my dad's short term solution
when the gauge shorted when i was driving to sebring back many years ago
when i was in high school - i always wondered what he did for that problem
and now i know! my spare H.D. gauge set will surely come in handy when i
go back together. |
| 10-02-03
- new cab on order |
|
i
have bit the bullet and sent a money order to "Britt in Cool"
for a rust free cab. Britt seems like a stand-up guy and i will let you
know when i see the cab. my cab is nearly gone from rust and my skills in
saving it are probably limited at best. the floors are shot along with the
steps, the drip rail and worst of all the cowl. i am certain i can fix the
floors and steps but the cowl and roof are probably beyond repair. i got
some advice from some friends "in the know" and they both feel
that no matter what i do, any rust i fix will surely come back. since i
am going to the frame on this project i better do it right or not do it
at all. Britt is prepping the cab for transport this weekend and will ship
it out next week. this purchase represents the last of the money from the
sale of the 65 340 Valiant project car (thanks Phil - i spent it all in
four places!). |
| 09-23-03
- rear end area disassembly
work in progress |
 |
I
worked on removing the rear tail lights - pain in the arse! i was able to
pull the right side out but i did not realize there were built-in spring
tabs that held the bezels in place. the right side bezel's tabs broke off
and distorted the bezel slightly. it looks like an easy repair but i guess
Dodge did not intend for people to take these out - ever! i have made a
tool to remove the left side bezel but i will need to enlist some help as
it is somewhat difficult to get to both sides of the light while laying
under the bed with one arm up inside the rear light panel.
to maintain productivity i removed the rear bumper and started removing
the home made hitch. the bumper is off and the hitch will follow soon. |
| 09-11-03
- left fender, core support
and inner fender removed |
 |
I
pulled the left fender and core support off today. my dad had a 4 core radiator
custom built for the truck and it will need some work before going back
on. the fend is pretty much junk - the rust is as bad as the right side
fender but the left side has a pretty severe dent in it. the parts Andy
found has a near perfect left fender with on minor dent in it.
Special Note for reassembly - the inner fender would not
come out unless the core support and fender and/or power steering is removed.
the inner fender and battery tray are in good shape and will be reused.
the core support had holes drilled in it to enhance cooling - i may or may
not reuse this. the other one has some rust but the latch bracket mount
bolt point has a ripped area in it. |
| 08-25-03
- Load new bed on trailer to start
repair |
 |
My
friend Michael Nelson loaned me a little flatbed trailer to use so that
i can move the "new" bed around easily. He also had a rack from
a dakota pickup that i used to lift the bed off the ground so the lower
portions of the bed won't get damaged when not on the trailer. i also made
up a trailer hitch for my garden tractor to move the trailer around easily.
i jacked the bed up and slid the rack under it and used two by fours and
lag bolts to mount it to the rack. i then jacked that assembly up and slid
the trailer under it and used my come-a-long to winch it up onto the trailer.
it took a awhile to do but i was quite impressed that my little tractor
could pull it around. |
08-20-03
- Repair bottom of right fender
|
 |
I
created a patch panel for the lower portion. it turned out ok but i needed
to do it in two pieces to get the angle and curves i needed. i am using
a book by jim richardson for reference. a very good book for beginner body
people. all the welds and imperfections will be easily covered by a thin
amount of filler. |
08-06-03
- Repair top of right fender
|
 |
i
welded up the top portion of the right fender. i had to make a patch panel
and used my eastwood shrinker/stretcher to get the curve just right and
my drill mounted nibbler to cut the piece into shape. i used an eastwood
vice mounted metal brake to get the 90 degree bends in it. i am very pleased
with the tools i bought from the sale of my little Valiant. i bought a Lincoln
WeldPak 135 from Lowes home improvement and i am using flux core wire -
it turned out nice. i think if i can find the money and use gas with regular
wire i would have had better results but i am very satisfied with the results
so far. the metal on this truck is THICK! very forgiving for a rank amateur
welder :) i used my angle grinder to knock down all the welds. |
08-05-03
- Right fender off
|
 |
moved
the fender into the workshop. i also practiced welding some more in preparation
of patching the "old" fender. i am confident i will either do
a good job or really mess it up. the metal is so thick on this truck i used
a hack saw to cut the rust out of the fender! |
| 08-03-03
- Remove right fender |
 |
i
pulled the right front fender off today. had to buy a nut splitter to get
the lower fender strut off with out hurting the strut or the unique philips
head bolt. came off with out a hitch. i have decided to polish my welding
skills on this fender as the "new" one from ebay is dented up
fairly well. if i screw up this fender by welding it i can fall back to
the "new" one and try my hand at dent removal. |
| 07-15-03
- Begin |
 |
this
is a fun day - the day i dive in. i spent the day documenting the truck
with my company's digital camera and i decided i need one of my own. i removed
the front grille and headlight housings. i am feeling excited but apprehensive
- this is a big task ahead but i am confident i can do it! |
| The
Restoration Journal - |
|
2008-9 | 2006-7 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 |
