China in 2000
On February 28, 2000 I boarded a plane with my good friend, Libby (whose children and husband allowed her to come with me for 2 weeks). This is meant to be the most amazing adventure of a lifetime!
First, we headed from Seattle to Tokyo, and then from Tokyo to Hong Kong. Since we crossed the dateline, we arrived in Hong Kong late the night of February 29th (yes, it was a leap year).
March 1, 2000 was the big day. We were up early, to catch a plane from Hong Kong to Guangzhou (Canton). While we were waiting to catch the flight, we met up with other WACAP families. More important, in the airport, I met my good friend Lorna, and her new daughter, Matilde! They were returning from their adoption trip in China, and were on their way back to Seattle! What luck -- I got to have many questions answered, and be the first in Seattle to meet the much-awaited Matilde.
Matilde's
referral picture
Once in Guangzhou, we had a couple hour wait for our flight to Nanning. At this time, there were 4 WACAP families together -- 3 for Nanning, and 1 for Anhui (that is Carole and Seth, friends of mine...). We spent a fun hour trying to order lunch without speaking Chinese, and enjoyed the surprise of finding out what it was we pointed at on the menu!
Finally, we arrived in humid Nanning! One family had arrived the day before, one arrived an hour before us, and then 3 families on our flight -- all five waiting to meet their new daughters. Our local guide, Maria, met us and got everyone stewarded onto the bus to the Majestic Hotel.
The first view of Nanning was hot, rainy & tropical. There were rice paddies -- just like in National Geographic -- but even better were the banana plantations. After an hour we arrived at the hotel, and quickly unpacked. It was already 6:30p and the babies were supposed to arrive at 7:30p.
The
Majestic Hotel in Nanning
Dinner went quickly, but the best part came leaving the restaurant...as I looked out to the lobby, the ambulance had just arrived, and the babies were being unloaded! It was amazing! It was all Libby could do, to keep me from running out to the lobby and finding Gwenn!
Well, we went upstairs and got the camcorder and camera ready -- we knew that they would be knocking on our door soon. And they did -- the moment came, and Maria had us come into her room. Sitting on the bed, on the lap of one of the aunties, was precious Gwenn. I picked her out immediately -- I'm not sure if I was worried that I wouldn't, but after staring at her picture for all of those weeks, there was never a question of knowing my daughter.
Looking back on it now, I can't say who was there in the room at the time. I know Libby was there videotaping. Maria was there, and Gwenn. There was a nanny there. Or, was it the director of Nanning Social Welfare Institute (NWSI)? Or, did her foster family bring her to this moment? I have to admit, I need to go back and look at the video tape again. I do recall that the women who brought the babies were crying, but I was so focused on Gwenn I recall little.
I'm so glad that I didn't cry, although I sure felt like it, and I know I had tears in my eyes -- all the kids were so scared at the new people, and new surroundings that they were very overwhelmed. They had been feeding Gwenn a banana, and I took that, along with Gwenn, back into the hotel room. From other rooms, I could hear the screaming that would continue into the night. However, Gwenn was tired and scared -- after peeling off 5 layers of clothing, I gave her a bottle, burped her, and she went to sleep right away.
The calm didn't last long -- an hour or so later, awakened by horrible gas (boy, I wish someone had told me about kids and gas before) and the screams of the other kids, Gwenn woke up and joined in the fray. As with the other families, Libby and I spent our first night soothing a very upset baby.
March 2nd, 2000
The first morning went well -- we ate breakfast, and quickly gathered in the lobby. Our first appointment of the day was at 9:30am, with the local Civil Affairs office, where the adoption interview and finalization would take place.
It's a short walk from the Majestic, so our five new families strolled to the adoption appointment. Gwenn fell asleep on the way there, nestled in the Baby Bjorn carrier, and actually slept through much of the actual adoption interview!
Asleep at Civil Affairs for
the adoption
At the civil affairs office, we were escorted into a reception room where the local official in charge of Guangxi and Nanning adoptions greeted us. We all began pulling out various pieces of paperwork, and awaited our turn.
Well, I wouldn't have long to wait -- I was to be the first interview. The questions were what I had anticipated: Why would a single woman want to adopt a child? Do I think that I can afford to raise a child? What would happen if my job requirements became too much? How flexible of a job did I have? However, there were also the touching questions, when I found myself on the verge of tears --- Is this the child that you want to adopt? Why have you attached to this child? And then, we were able to relax, share stories and pictures from our home, and talk a bit about our hopes for the future.
It was over quickly, and parts seem fuzzy. We signed a lot of forms, stamped fingerprints of adults, and footprints of the kids onto forms. Lots of people came by the doors, looking in. Many had wonderful and happy expressions on their faces, some with tears.
From the Civil Affairs office we had a bus to take us to the local Police Station, where we would process the applications for our daughters passports. Again, we were interviewed by agents at the police station. However, this time they weren't quite as professional -- more nosey it seemed. Blunt questions about how much money we earned, why I thought I could raise a child as a single adult, why I didn't have a husband, who the woman traveling with me was, and why I thought I would provide a good home. Each of the families had a different experience -- I think it was up to the unique questioning ability of the police interviewer, and how nosey they were about your life!
By noon, it was over. We took a quick bus trip to the local market -- all of us were clamoring for Chinese Formula -- and we spent 30 minutes shopping at the best stop of the week! I bought some great outfits, for next to nothing, that Gwenn still wears. We bought 3 large containers of Chinese formula, and should have bought 4. And then, we were back to the hotel for lunch, and a nap for the kids.
We met for a paperwork session in the afternoon, and then it was time for our first trip to Renmin Park -- the People's Park. Located only two blocks from the Majestic, I found that we spent a LOT of time there, every single day. It was a saving grace of quiet, free space, and no interruptions from staring locals.
Renmin Park
Finally, dinner time at the Cantonese restaurant at the Majestic Hotel for the entire group. It was amazing, but we were all turned in early -- heading to bed around 8pm!
March 3rd, 2000
Today was our "unplanned day" in Nanning -- meaning they were letting us have the run of the town. We knew we wanted to go to the Dept. store, since we had heard about it from others. We walked, and walked and had a great tour of Nanning, and never found it. So we walked back to the hotel, and took a cab from there. We were only a few blocks away, but headed in the wrong direction the first time.
It was amazing! You go inside, and the central area is open to all 10 floors of the store. There are no elevators, just escalators around the rim. It was amazing. We found kids stuff on the 7th and 8th floors, including a great umbrella stroller that I bought -- I had my choice of dozens to choose from.
In the afternoon, we headed back to Renmin Park, this time visiting the Botanical Gardens there. They were amazing -- such tropical plants as you can imagine, and a whole section of the garden devoted to cactus! How they kept them from dying from all of the wet moisture of Nanning, I don't know!
March 4th, 2000
Today was going to be a BIG day -- today is the day that we get to meet the foster families who took such good care of our daughters for so long.
First thing in the morning after breakfast, we boarded the bus, and took a long, winding trip to the orphanage where Gwenn spent the first 3 months of her life, to meet the foster family who took care of her for the next 7 months of her life before coming to be with her "forever family". We travel down small, windy side roads, filled with people until we reach Nanning Social Welfare Institute.
The family is amazing! There is a Baba (Dad), Mama (Mom) MiMi (Elder Sister) and JieJie (Younger Sister). All but JieJie are able to be here today. They are just amazing -- Gwenn is the fifth child that they have fostered prior to adoption -- and all have been adopted in the US. One family is in Iowa, another in Utah, and another in Florida. I don't find out where the other family is from -- but we see pictures of all families, and the children.
As we arrived, and when we left, we were met by a huge crowd of high school students who work at the SWI with the kids. They were so amazed to see Americans -- our guide tells us that they have never seen the children with the families who adopt them, and all of the high schoolers are very excited about meeting and seeing us.
After meeting the families, we need something to calm us down -- so we head to the Minorities Museum. We get to see only the outdoor buildings, and tour the grounds, as well as visiting the gift shop.
Later, after lunch and a nap, we head back to Renmin Park -- our refuge from the city. We go to the Monument for the Revolutionary Martyrs. Libby hiked up a huge staircase to view the actual monument. I stayed on the bottom with Gwenn and made friends with a young girl who was visiting with her parents.
March 5th, 2000
Today we went to visit Green Mountain Park. It is a huge mountain just on the outskirts of Nanning. We boarded the bus early in the morning, and drove through the town, and then out into the suburbs. Then, we started up the mountain...and up, and up and up. It was a huge, long drive. Finally, we reached the main gate, which is pictured just below.
Green Mountain Park
Once we had passed through the main gates we continued to wind up, all the way to the top! We got out, and started to walk around on the tour. At the very top of the mountain is a large pagoda, which is dedicated to the local fertility goddess. There were many shrines, both alongside the lake, as well as in the tree's.
We went to the lake, and many people made offerings of incense to the local gods. Many in our group also made offerings, and said prayers of good luck for our children. Next to this was the small lake, which had a statue of the fertility goddess in the middle of it. It was quite beautiful.
All of us got back into the bus, and started to wind down the mountain. We got off at a large meadow area, sort of in a little valley in the mountain, and we wandered around. Immediately we noticed that close to 200 people were watching some sort of dancing, so we headed over that way.
It turns out that one of the local minority groups, the Miao people, were holding a dance exhibition that day -- we watched, spellbound, for close to an hour. At one point, we even joined in the dancing! The locals were very taken with all of us Americans there, and we were approached by many to have pictures taken with them! I am in the photo albums of over 20 Chinese who I have never met.
There were beautiful kite stands, which I remember, and even took pictures of, since they were so pretty.
Again, back in the bus, and we headed back to the hotel for a late lunch, nap and rest. We headed back to Renmin Park for the afternoon to wander around again!
March 6th, 2000
Today we had another trip to Renmin Park, and then spent the afternoon filling out more paperwork. It was exhausting, and we stayed close to the hotel for most of the day. We were able to sneak away for another shopping trip at the Nanning Department store, with one of the other families in the group (Adrienne and Jessica) for last minute bargain hunting!
March 7th, 2000
Today we flew from Nanning to Guangzhou. We had to stay somewhat close to the hotel, because we were waiting to find out if the passports and final adoption certificates would really be ready as promised.
After breakfast, Maria took off to track them down. She said to be ready at noon and she'd let us know if we were leaving. So, we took one last trip up to Renmin Park -- this has really been a wonderful refuge of quiet in this busy city, and I will be sorry to leave.
At noon, we had the documents. Everyone had to review them for last minute changes, spelling corrections, and then we were off packing -- we checked out by 2p and by 4p we were on our way to Guangzhou. It's only a one hour flight, so it wasn't too late getting there.
When we got off the plane, Libby and I were separated from the rest of the families. We weren't worried, since we'd all wind up at baggage claim in the end. But, I mention this because for the first time, I saw pain in the eyes of a Chinese woman who saw me with Gwenn, instead of joy for Gwenn having a family. It really hit me hard, as tears ran down the face of a woman on the transfer from the plane, that so many people know the pain of giving up a child, and the loss China has with all of these beautiful, talented girls leaving.
Arriving in Guangzhou was pretty funny. At this point, we are five families, with new children, and more acquired luggage. Maria was still with us, and we were also met by Jennifer, who helped to get us to the White Swan. We had at least six luggage carts full of luggage, strollers, children riding them, and everything going every way. Finally, we made it to the bus -- and started to load everything. Well, we must have looked pretty funny, since the tour bus of Chinese tourists next to us stayed to watch us try to load all of the luggage onto this bus -- even taking pictures and videotaping the event.
We arrived at the White Swan and got checked in. In Nanning we were all on the same floor, in rooms next to each other. Here -- we are all on different floors, and not together -- that should be interesting. We are so used to doing things as a group.
Once we settle into the room we head downstairs to look around, and grab dinner. I am overwhelmed. Everywhere you look there are American families with their new Chinese children. I feel the tears welling up in my eyes, even as I write this. Hundreds of new families, hundreds of children. And I know that this scene is repeated every week, all year long. Last year over 4,000 children from China met their forever families and came to live in the United States. I had heard that number -- but seeing all of these families, all of these people who had all taken the same long journey I had really made it hit home. Outside of actually seeing Gwenn for the first time, this was the most emotional moment for me.
March 8th, 2000
Off early this morning -- it's medical appointment time. I've heard about this moment over and over for months on the APC list -- I'm prepared with my own syringe, in case Gwenn needs a shot, and my own tongue depressors, since all I've read about is how they re-use them here, and they aren't sterile. I think that Dad sent enough supplies to keep China sterile for the next month!
We have now joined up with the four families who adopted their daughters from Anhui Province, including my friends Carole and Seth Manheim. Their daughter Olivia is beautiful, with a wicked sense of humor already, and is very taken with her new family. I think she is the healthiest of all the babies in the group from Anhui.
We had a beautiful walk through this old part of Guangzhou. Where the White Swan is located is a small island that is where all of the "foreign interests" were allowed to settle and build when China opened up to the west. The houses are old, and gorgeous. We walk through tree lined boulevards, and within 10 minutes, reach the clinic.
Although it certainly is not like any clinic in the west, I wasn't dismayed by it, as I have heard others have been. It reminded me of a college clinic, where different area's of the clinic deal with different issues. As Americans, we were escorted past Chinese who had obviously been waiting for a long time. The exam included taking weight and height of the children. Then, moving from room to room for different exams -- in one room, they listed to Gwenn's heart and stomach. In another room, it was checking her eye's (do they work? yes? she passes.) and checking her hearing (does she hear? yes? she is healthy.) They do check her throat with a tongue depressor. My purse is full of these, and I wonder if I need to pull them out. No need -- they make quite the show of taking a new depressor, opening it up, and discarding it after use. So much for six months of hype on the APC list. After 30 minutes at the local clinic, and a fee of 80 yuan ($10) we are done.
On our way home, we indulge in very little sightseeing, and our new favorite China pastime. Shopping. This time, it's Jennifer's place, an awesome little shop about 20 steps from the front entrance of the White Swan Hotel.
OK. So Jennifer had worked for WACAP in the past, but she's found her calling. She owns and runs a great little shop that has everything that adoptive families want -- all of those cultural items that we want to bring back to the US. Want a silk outfit? Got them. Need chopsticks, or a chop? Got them too. Porcelain tea service --done. It's all here, and at such reasonable prices you start to forget what shopping in the rest of the world is like. We buy everything. And then, head back to the hotel. Not because we are tired, because we've run out of yuan and need to change money. We'll be back.
After lunch we head to the US consulate, which is just down the block, for our first appointment. This appointment is the big one. Everyone is nervous, and we aren't quite sure what to expect.
We arrive, and are ushered into a small waiting room. We meet families from 2 other agencies who are there for appointments. When our group is called we think it's time! But, we move into another waiting room / appointment room, where the interviews with the consulate officials take place.
Eventually, our group begins to be called up for interviews and questions. I see the official pick up an envelope, start to chuckle, and make a comment about the name on the envelope. This has to be us. It is. They call for Yuan Yu Yuan, which was Gwenn's Chinese name, and we have our turn. The interview is really quite simple, especially without need for a translator, since all of these folks are American's. We talk for just over 10 minutes, stamp some documents, sign some others and then give Maria money to pay for the visa's. We are done. Now we just wait for the visa to be processed, and we can really head home!
By the time we are done we are exhausted. We have a simple meal, and go to bed. It has been a very long day.
March 9th, 2000
Today was another sight-seeing day. We first went and toured this beautiful old home, which is now a museum and gift shop. It's a mixed bag of foreigners and Chinese there. No doubt, this place is beautiful. But, having over 10 different gift shops inside of this house sort of puts a damper on enjoying it. But, I survived.
Then, we were off the a very famous Buddhist monastery in Guangzhou. It is very well known for its three gold Buddha's. We were able to wander the monastery by ourselves, and look at the altar's, and the old pagoda which was undergoing repairs. I bought some Buddhist rosaries here, as well as a temple bell to give to Dad. Then, we went up and down the streets and wandered the shops. There were hundreds of shops, all dedicated to supporting the monastery by providing whatever supplies for worship may be needed.
After lunch, we met up with Kathy Chichester and her new daughter, Sarah. Kathy and I met online and spent hours speaking over email, and even on the phone. She too is single, and we had much in common. She took us to a great shop that is dedicated to supporting local orphanages and other charities. Both Libby and I bought some wonderful gifts there. This is a new shop, and hopefully it will make it. It is down the street, to the right as you leave the White Swan, just beyond the kindergarten. Ask for the charity shop when you are there, and someone will direct you!
That night Libby and I decided to have a nice dinner, so we went to the nicest restaurant in the White Swan, which just happened to be a Cantonese restaurant. It did not disappoint us. I do not think that this place will have rats running out from under the tables. Carol and Seth came in with Olivia, and sat just a few tables away. Gwenn starts to fuss, and when she falls asleep, the waitresses make a bed out of chairs for her, so she can sleep and we can continue to eat. I will miss such incredible food when I return home.
March 10th, 200
Packing in the morning -- that's all I remember. I know we hit the shops in the White Swan for last minute bargains, and I found an awesome silk cloak, with fur lining, that I bought for Gwenn, which was only $20. Yikes! I love this country and the people we meet!
Just after lunch today I was able to meet Jenni Wainer, and her daughter Rachel. Jenni is the eGroups moderator of our June99DTC group -- all those families who sent their dossiers to China in June, 1999. It's amazing that we were in China at the same time! Her daughter Rachel is 2 1/2 months younger than Gwenn, and just a little peanut, although very sweet. We had a great visit, and continued to pack to leave.
After shopping all morning for those last minute bargains, It's official! At 3p we headed to the US Consulate, just down the road from the White Swan in Guangzhou, and picked up the final Visa packets! We were at the hotel at 3:45p, and we were on our way to the airport by 4:30p for our evening flight to Hong Kong.
We are tired, but so happy to be on our way home. Libby has been a real trooper -- she misses her kids, and is still in great humor helping me figure out how to be a mom.
March 11th, 2000
Today is probably the longest day I've gone through. We woke up in Hong Kong just after 4am local time. By 6am, we had checked in at the airline, and started to wander the airport. We left Hong Kong just before 9am, and although we traveled through Tokyo, we arrived back in Seattle at 7am on the 11th, about 2 hours before we left Hong Kong. The dateline is a very cool thing.
It is so good to be back -- I've never fully appreciated it, but it's true -- there's no place like home.
We were met at the airport by a huge crowd -- my Mom Joannie, my Dad David, my brothers Alex, Bayly and Nawang, as well as my friend Lorna and her new daughter Matilde, and other friends Annie, Erica, Sundie, and Donna (who house-sat for me!). We caused quite a commotion outside of customs, and it was wonderful seeing everyone there to meet our Princess Gwenn. It was an amazing adventure!