Last Modified:

January 18, 2001

You have reached my information  page. This is only information and cannot be substituted for proper training.  If there is anything that you would like to add then please e-mail me.  I have tried to put as much information on here as possible and will continue to put more. 

• The Big Question
• Types of Climbing
• Grading System
• Taping

The Big Question:

Why do men and women risk their lives by climbing? From bouldering a chair or climbing Mt. Everest. This question has been asked for a long time.  When George Leigh-Mallory offered to answer the question as to why he would try and climb Mt. Everest, he told everyone "Because it is there", a New York Times writer wrote "It is the necessity of human nature that practical records should be broken; and to affect the inability to understand why men are irresistibly attracted to the chance of doing something first or going somewhere first, is a waste of time. They are built that way, and to the very impulse that rules them the world is enormously indebted." 

Type of Climbing:
 

Free Climbing -  Free climbing is rock climbing which does not involve any direct aid. That is, the climber uses only the features of the rock to climb with. Any gear or bolts which he uses are only for protection in the event of a fall and never hold his weight. Free Climbing does not mean unroped climbing. That is called soloing (or free soloing).

 
 

Aid Climbing -  Aid climbing uses gear such as nuts, pitons, hooks and bolts to pull up on and make progress in a climb. Although it is less practiced today than in the past, it is still widely used on big walls and mountaineering.

 
 

Traditional Climbing -  Often called trad climbing or referred to as ‘slinging gear’. Basically, climbing without placing bolts. Only natural protection such as nuts and cams in cracks, or slings around trees or rock horns are used.

 
 

Sport Climbing - Increasingly popular is climbing on routes with only pre-placed bolts for protection. Usually short, often hard climbs. Only a rope, harness and a few quickdraws are needed.  Many traditionalists feel that sport climbing is a somewhat lower form of climbing, as it permanently scars the rock, and removes much the mental game from climbing.

 
 

Lead Climbing - Climbing where the first climber takes the rope up with him and clips the rope into protection (bolts, nuts or cams in cracks, slings around trees etc.) as he ascends.

 
 

Top Roping -  Climbing where the rope runs through an anchor at the top of the climb, and then down to the climber. The climber does not have to worry about placing protection, or taking big falls.

 

Bouldering -  Unroped climbing low enough to the ground that a fall is not too serious (usually a few metres or less). Bouldering allows a climber to work on very difficult sequences without worrying about gear and equipment.

Grading Systems:

The most common grading system in North America is the Taqhuitz Decimal System. Technical rock climbing is designated 5th class, and is subdivided 5.0 to 5.14. 5.10 (originally the highest grade) and above is further subdivided a, b, c and d (ie 5.10c, 5.11d). The grade of a route is a subjective rating based on the technical difficulty of the climb. It is usually decided by the first ascentionists, but may later be changed by general consensus of the local climbing community.  Other grading systems are used in Europe, South America and Australia. 

5.0 - 5.7:        Easy climbing. Most beginners are able to climb at this level within a day or two. 

5.8 - 5.10:        A little harder. Most people will climb these grades with a little experience. 

5.10:        Is the level most climbers reach comfortably. 

5.11:       The level most dedicated climbers can achieve with a lot of hard work andpractice. 

5.12 - 5.14:         Hard climbing! Only the best climbers will be able to climb these routes. 
 

Save Your Skin, Climb Harder: (Brad Jackson)

Everytime you fist jam, thumb stack, or even dig into your pocket, you reopen that wound at the base of your thumb.  People look at your hand with concern and fright, wondering what kind of freaky skin disorder you have.  Kinda wish you had taped, don't you?
   
If you lack perfect crack technique or your skin lacks the durability of a haulbag, try this simple, effective taping technique, and keep your hands scab free.
   
Beginning at your index-finder knuckle, run a strip of 1.5-inch-wide tape down the back of your hand to just below the wrist.  Continue placing strips of equal length on both sides of the first one, two trips to the left and two to the right, each one slightly overlapping the last.  The result is full coverage of the back of the hand from the knuckles to an inch or so below the wrist, including the webbed section between the thumb and forfinger, and the thumb itself from the first joint down to the wrist.

Next, wrap tape across your knuckles, beginning at the middle of the palm, going around, and hitting the pinkie knuckle first.  Continue diagonally across the palm then around the back of your hand, down toward the wrist, and once around it.  Continue back diagonally toward the index-finger knuckle.  Come back across the palm, finsihing with an overlap of the beginning.  The final step involves securing the thumb strip with a .75-inch-wide piece of tape wrapped around the thumb just below the first join.

Never apply tape too tightly, as this can cause a painful pump.  Flew the hand as you wrap the tape loosely but without creases.

Saving old tape mitts is not recommended.  Old mitts fit sloppily, limiting performance.

Also consider applying an adhesive to your skin before taping, to keep your masterpiece from peeling up around the edges.  Spray-on skin toughener by Mueller or Cramer is superb, but hard to find.  Tincture of Benzoine is also effective

In climbing, your hand are number one.  Taping is the most effective way to save skin, which mean more climbing time and more fun.