What to Look For

C. Engine

The principle engines installed in the series IIA Land Rover are the 2,25 liter four-cylinder petrol and diesel units, although alternative replacements may have been fitted over the years. Beware of any engine swaps and check workmanship carefully!

This petrol engine is rugged and reliable and, if well maintained, will seemingly go on forever. It may sound a little tappetty, coughing and spluttering at times, and may even use a little too much oil, but by and large most faults (except the latter!) are easily put right with carburetor repair kits, tappet adjustment or some attention to the ignition system.

The diesel engine is a little more complicated and, contrary to popular believe, tends not to last as long as the petrol equivalent as more is generally asked of it. The diesel is noisy therefore, the best guide to engine wear is to remove the crank case breather filter and, while slowly increasing engine speed, check the quantity of emissions that come from it. In a worn engine, the pressure of emission caused by “blowby” will increase with rising RPM and, in extreme cases, may even throw out droplets of oil. This is because, with the higher compression ratios of the diesel engine, piston ring wear and worn bores are more readily detected by this method. A smoky exhaust, especially when the throttle is first opened, is an indication of worn or badly adjusted fuel injectors; the only remedy for this is to have them cleaned and recalibrated. The DPA fuel injector pump is normally trouble-free and reliable and, like the injectors, is way beyond the scope of the “home mechanic”. They require high-pressure test equipment and, because of the fine tolerances in their parts, demand scrupulously clean repair conditions, making it best to leave overhaul to a qualified expert.

Considering the Land Rover’s exceptionally long production run, engine changes so far have been relatively few. Apart from the 2286cc petrol and diesel units detailed above, other power-plants include the 1595 cc and 1997cc four-cylinder petrol engines (used very early on in the Land Rover’s life); the 2625cc six-cylinder diesel engine; the early 2052cc and late-model 2494cc four-cylinder diesel units; and, of course the 3528cc V8 petrol engine. In later life, the letter diesel engine mentioned was also offered in turbocharged form.

Like the engines used in the Series IIA, all Land Rover engines are renowned for their longevity and reliability. They are basically simple in design and the same sort of checks you would make to any car engine before purchase should be carried out on “your” prospective Land Rover.

As mentioned earlier, the 2286cc Series IIA petrol engine can suffer from excessive oil consumption; this suggests worn rubber sealing rings in the valve guides. Four-cylinder engines have a different type of valve gear to the six-cylinder models, with pad-type cam followers instead of the six-cylinder roller type, these followers eventually wearing to a knocking sound from the engines top end.

The V8 petrol engine though essentially as robust as the smaller units, is more difficult to keep in tune. It will also suffer more than most if its oil is not changed regularly. One of its weakness lies in the valve gear, where a built-up of sludge can affect the efficiency of the hydraulic tappets, leading to premature wear and, eventually, even wear of the camshaft. When cold, the V8 engine may give a slight “knock” from the top end; if this doesn’t disappear when warm, all the signs point to camshaft problems. Repairs are expensive, especially as there are usually eight or 16 of everything.

Standard engine-bay checks to make before buying any second-hand vehicle (and the Land Rover is no exception) include:

1). Check oil and water levels, brake and clutch fluid and fan belt tension. Is there any “white emulsion” deposited inside the oil filler cap and the rocker cover?

2). Start the engine and listen for any untoward rumbles or rattles, as mentioned earlier.

3). Depress the clutch pedal with the engine running and listen for the whirr of a worn release bearing.

4). Examine oil and air filters for signs of fairly recent renewal – if not, the engine could well have been neglected.

5). Look around the engine for signs of new gaskets, evidence of recent dismantling or any other work – and ask what and why!

6). Check for oil and water leaks and examine water hoses – check radiator for signs of repair.

7). Check engine mountings for signs of wear.

8). Look at the condition of the battery and terminals.

9). Feel for leaks under the carburetor and fuel pump/piping.