Places
of worship
In their buildings, ruins, sites
and associations, London’s churches and cathedrals represent nearly
1400 years of Christianity in Britain (the first St Paul’s Cathedral
is ascribed to the beginning of the 7thC). Norman work survives in St
Helen’s Bishopsgate and Westminster Abbey and at the time of the
Great Fire of 1666 there were over 100 churches in the present area of
the City of London, a density peculiar to English cities.
The Fire set the scene for
Wren’s great rebuilding programme, including St Paul’s Cathedral
and 50 churches, most of which have survived later demolitions and war
damage. Hawksmoor and Inigo Jones were other 17th and early
18thC church designers whose work we can still admire.
The Victorians too were great
church builders and the 19thC produced a wealth of new churches, many
of them in triumphant Gothic style, for Anglican and other
denominations. The neo-Byzantine Westminster RC Cathedral of 1903 is
outstanding.
Non-Christian religions also
have their part in London’s history, with synagogues as at Bevis
Marks and, most recently, the Regent’s Park Mosque for London’s
growing Islamic community. London’s most important religious
buildings are listed below
Abbey’s
& cathedrals
St George's RC Cathedral,
Southwark
Lambeth Rd (opp Imperial Museum) SE1. 0171-928 5256. By
A.W. Pugin, 1848. Spire never completed. Burnt out in last war and
interior restored 1958.
St
Paul’s Cathedral
Ludgate Hill EC4. 0171-248 4619/2705.
Wren’s greatest work; built 1675-1710 replacing the previous church
destroyed by the Great Fire. Superb dome, porches and funerary
monuments. Contains magnificent stalls by Grinling Gibbons. Ironwork
by Tijou, paintings by Thornhill and mosaics by Salviati and Sir
William Richmond. OPEN 07.15-18.00 Mon-Sun except during special
services.
Southwark Cathedral
Borough High St SE1. 0171-407 2939. Much restored. Built by
Augustinian Canons but destroyed by fire in 1206. Beautiful early
English choir and retrochoir. Tower built c1520, nave by Blomfield
1894. Chapter House developed in 1988 with restaurant. OPEN
08.30-18.00 Mon-Fri.
Westminster Abbey
(The Collegiate Church of St
Peter in Westminster). Broad Sanctuary SW1. 0171-222 5152. Original
church by Edward the Confessor 1065. Rebuilding commenced in 1245 by
henry III who was largely influenced by the new french cathedrals.
Completed by Henry Yevele and others 1376-1506 (towers incomplete and
finished by Hawksmoor 1734). Henry VII Chapel added 1503; fine
perpendicular with wonderful fan vaulting. The Abbey contains the
Coronation Chair, and many tombs and memorials of the Kings and Queens
of England and their subjects. Starting place for pilgrimage to
Canterbury Cathedral. Nave and Cloisters OPEN 09.20-16.00 Mon-Fri,
09.00-14.00 & 15.45-17.00 Sat.
Westminster RC Cathedral
Ashley Pl SW1. 0171-834 7452.
Early Christian Byzantine-style church by J.F. Bentley, 1903. The most
important church in England. Fine marbled interior.
Churches
& other places of worship
Bevis Marks Synagoguw
Heneage La (off Bevis Market) EC3. 0171-626 1274. Avis, 1700. Fine
windows. Brass chandeliers from Amsterdam.
French Protestant Church
9 Soho Sq W1. 0171-437 5311. By
Aston Webb in 1893, exterior surprisingly like an official
building.
The Guards Chapel
Wellington Barracks, Birdcage
Walk SW1. 0171-414 3228. Original chapel, built 1838 was destroyed
1944 with the loss of 121 lives. New chapel, finished 1963, is austere
but complements the original surviving apse.
Holy Trinity
Sloane St SW1. 0171-730 7270. By
Sedding in 1890. London’s most elaborate church of ‘Arts
and Crafts’ movement.
The Ark
Talgarth Rd W6. Ralph Erskine,
1989-92. A remarkable and ambitious purpose-built office building, the
shape of which stems from the shape of the side, bound on one side by
the Hammersmith flyover, and on the other by tube tracks. Striking
feature is the inclined facade; the cladding comprises alternate bands
of clear and tinted triple glazing with copper panels between floors.
Internal open terraces overlook a dramatic central atrium; this is the
first building in Europe to be treated as one room. A glass-sided
wall-climber lift travels through the roof of the atrium to the summit
Room which is 220ft (67m) above London; the view sweeps from Docklands
to Heathrow. In spite of winning several architectural awards, the
building has been mainly empty since construction.
Canary Wharf Tower
One Canada Sq, Canary Wharf E14.
Cesar Pelli, 1988-90. At 800ft (244m) this is the tallest building in
the UK. Clad in stainless steel and topped with a pyramid, the
50-storey building boasts a magnificent lobby finished in Italian and
Guatemalan marble. 32 passenger lifts operate from the lobby and are
the fastest in the country. Canary Wharf itself is full of elegant
architecture, stately streets, well-planted squares and out-door
spaces. Intended as office space, a large proportion of the complex
has remained unoccupied, although several international companies have
now taken up residence.
Thames Flood Barrier
Unity Way, Eastmoor St SE18.
This visually and technologically exciting structure is one of the
most impressive examples of modern engineering in Europe. Completed in
1982, its gates swing up through 90 degrees from the river bed and
create a stainless steel barrage to stem dangerously high tides which
periodically threaten London. The Thames Barrier Visitor Centre houses
an exhibition and presentation, illuminating the engineering feats
involved in the barrier’s construction.
Abbey Mills Pumping Station
Abbey La E15. 0181-534 6717. An
unusual building of cupolas and domes built in 1865 to pump the 83
miles of main sewers draining the 100sq miles of London. This
remarkable piece of drainage engineering was the work of the engineer
Joseph Bazalgette and still survives intact and perfect after well
over 100 years of use. Visit by arrangements.
Albert Memorial
Kensington Gore SW7. Gothic
memorial to Prince Albert, consort of Queen Victoria, by Sir George
Gilbert Scott 1872. Due to extensive restoration work, the memorial
could be covered.
Bank of England
Threadneedle St EC2. 0171-601
5545. The vaults hold the nation’s gold reserve. Outer walls are
still the original design by Sir John Soane, architect to the Bank
1788-1833.
Bankside
Southwark SE1. Thames-side walk
with the finest views of St Paul’s and the City across the river and
‘The Anchor’, historic riverside inn rebuilt c1750. Here were
Shakespeare’s theatres; his Globe is marked by a plaque in Park St
and a working reconstruction of it, following the original designs of
15999, is being constructed in Emerson St, now renamed New Globe Walk.
Number 49 Bankside is reputed to be the house in which Wren lodged
while St Paul’s was being built.
The Blitz
Although the Docks and the City
were prime targets during World War II, bombs rained all over London.
The Blitz (prolonged intensive attacks by German bombers) lasted for
nine months beginning Sep 1940. In June 1944 a renewed assault with
V1s (‘Doodlebugs’) began and lasted nearly a year. Later, V2
rockets arrived with such speed (3600mph) that they were virtually
invisible; the first fell at Chiswick but was heard at Westminster;
another hit a New Cross Woolworth’s and killed 160 people. Many
Londoners spent their nights in air-raid shelters or bedded down in
tube stations. Ten thousands people could fit into Liverpool street
tube station. Over 1.5 million homes were damaged by bombing and
100,000 houses were destroyed. In the City alone, 164 out of 460 acres
(66.4 out of 186.3ha) were wiped out. Historic buildings, including
churches, wre destroyed and damaged.
London Bridge
The site of many replacements.
Wooden construction until 12thC; the famous stone bridge that followed
carried houses and shops. Granite bridge built in 1832 by Rennie was
shipped off to Lake Havasu City, Arizona in 1971. Latest construction
completed in 1973.
Tower Bridge
0171-407 0922. Victorian-Gothic
towers with hydraulic twin drawbridge. Jones and Wolfe-Barry 1894.
Enter by the tower closest to the Tower of London and take the lift to
high walkways for breath-taking views of London and the Thames.
Buckingham Palace
St James’s Park SW1. The
official London residence of the Sovereign. Originally built 1705,
remodelled by Nash 1825 and Edward Blore 1830-47; refaced 1913 by Sir
Aston Webb. Open to the public for the first time; visitors can see
most of the state apartments and the Queen’s Picture Gallery. State
apartments OPEN Aug & Sep 09.30-17.30 Mon-Sun.
Covent Garden Market
Originally designed by Inigo
Jones (with his St Paul’s church) as a residential square in the
1630s. Market buildings dating from 1830 by Fowler. Floral Hall added
in 1860 by E.M. Barry, architect of the Royal Opera House (1858). In
1974 the market moved to Nine Elms, but the area survived to become a
flourishing new community, with eclectic, though expensive, shopping
centre, restaurants, London Transport Museum and Theatre Museum.
The Cutty Sark
King William Walk Se10. 0181-858
3445. Stands in dry-dock. One of the great sailing tea-clippers, built
1869. Gipsy Moth IV, the boat in which Sir Francis Chichester sailed
round the world in 1966, stands in dry-dock next the Cutty Sark.
Old Royal Observatory
Greenwhich Park SE10. 0181-858
4422. Formely the Green which Observatory. Part of the National
Maritime Museum and includes Flamsteed House. Designed by Wren and
founded by Charles II in 1675. Time and astronomical instruments; the
Meridian Line; largest refracting telescope in the UK. Most of the
pioneer work in the development of astronomy and nautical navigation
was done here.
Guildhall
Off Gresham St EC2. 0171-606
3030. 15thC with alterations to the facade by George Dance, 1789, and
later restorations by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. The Great Hall is used
for ceremonial occasions. Medieval groined vaulting in crypts. Roman
amphitheatre recently excavated in the courtyard.
Houses of Parliament
ST Margaret St SW1. 0171-219
3000. Victorian-Gothic building 1840-68 by Sir Charles Barry and A.W.N.
Pugin. Westminster Hall was built in 1099 as the Great Hall of William
Rufus’ new palace; the roof dates from the late 14thC.
Hyde Park Corner
Consists of Constitution Arch at
the top of Constitution Hill, and the lonic screen of three
classical-style triumphal arches at the entry to Hyde Park, by Decimus
Burton, 1825. Admire too the Duke of Wellington’s former home Apsley
House, once known as ‘Number One, London’.
London Wall
Surviving parts of the Roman and
medieval wall around the old city of London can still be seen at St
Alphage on the north side of London Wall EC2; St Giles Churchyard,
Cripplegate EC1; and Tower of London EC3.
Marble Arch
Designed by John Nash, 1827,
based on the Arch of Constantine in Rome. Intented to be a great new
entrance for Buckingham Palace, it wasn’t until it was finished that
it was discovered that the arch was too narrow for the state coach to
pass through so it had to be moved to its present site. From the 14thC
to 1783 this was the spot for the Tyburn Gallows, the main execution
site where hangings took place watched by excited crowds.
Soho
An area bounded by Regents St,
Oxford St, Shaftesbury Av and Charing Cross Rd. Lively and notorious
but perfectly safe, except for touts for peep show, nude encounter and
strip joint customers. Narrow 18thC streets full of fascinating
foreign food shops, restaurants, street markets, flashing neon and
nightlife of all sorts. Visait London’s ‘Chinatown’ around
Gerrard St.
Tower of London
Towe Hill EC3. 0171-709 0765. A
keep, a prison and still a fortress. Famous for the Bloody Tower,
Traitors’ Gate, the ravens, Crown Jewels, the Armories and the Yemon
Warders. Edward I’s Medieval Palace has been restored and is open to
the public.
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