Only in France would they codify 295 ways to prepare eggs. And that doesn't include omelets. It is interesting to note that the 100 pleats in a French chef's tall white hat (La Toque Blanche) traditionally represent the number of different ways to prepare eggs that he or she must know to become a member of the profession.
Despite the bad press, eggs offer many different culinary opportunities and the best part is they're cheap. The bum rap on eggs is cholesterol. In the 70s I asked a friend whom I suspected would know if this were true. He replied to go ahead and eat eggs; they contain enough lecithin to offset the cholesterol. I chose to believe him, not the health-care nannies of the day. His credentials: former chief of internal medicine at Jefferson Hospital in Philadelphia and a medical researcher who invented Maalox along with several other products for Rohr Laboratories. Recently his opinion has been proved correct.
| 6 large eggs | 1 tablespoon parsley |
| 3 cups medium béchamel sauce | Salt and pepper to taste |
| White bread for toasting |
Hard boil the eggs. Separate the yolks from the whites and reserve 5 yolks. Chop whites into egg salad size pieces and add to finished béchamel sauce. Crumple one yolk and add to the sauce. Grate the remaining 5 yolks and reserve. Simmer the egg whites and 1 crumpled yolk for 15 minutes; add salt and pepper. Serve on toast garnished with a liberal amount of grated egg yolk.
| 1 large or jumbo egg | Salt |
| 1 tablespoon butter | Freshly ground black pepper |
Over Easy: Melt butter in skillet or on a griddle. When pan is hot, but the butter has not begun to turn brown break an egg onto the griddle. Hold the yolk in the center briefly until the egg begins to set, about 10 seconds. Turn heat down low. Salt and pepper to taste. After about 30 to 45 seconds, flip the egg being careful not to break the yolk. Cook for about another 30 seconds and remove to plate. Serve with warm buttered toast, jelly on the side, and a rasher of crisp bacon.
Sunny Side Up: Follow the technique for eggs over easy up to when the egg have set in the skillet, about 10 seconds. Turn heat down low and cook for another 20 seconds. Put a teaspoon of water in the skillet, then cover the egg with a pot lid that is smaller than the skillet and sits right on the surface of the skillet. Cook for another 30 seconds and lift lid. If the whites appear solid and a whitish haze has appeared over the yolk, the egg is done. If not recover the egg and move the skillet off the burner and let rest for about 20 seconds. Try not to overcook the yolks. Serve the same as for eggs over easy.
| 1 large egg | Butter |
| Slice of rat bread | Salt and pepper |
Cut a 1˝ inch hole in the center of the bread. A shot glass works well. Melt a glob of butter on a griddle. Brown one side of the bread in the butter over a low flame. Push the bread to the side and add more butter, then flip the bread. Brown for about 30 seconds, then break egg over the browned side with the yolk falling into the hole. Add salt and pepper. When the other side is brown, flip once and cook until done. Do not overcook; the yolk should be runny and the whites firm. For best results, use an iron griddle or skillet.
At first thought, one might think that nothing is simpler than a hard-boiled egg. Most folks and most restaurants don't cook them properly. If you see a greenish coating on the yolk, the eggs were not prepared correctly.
| 1 egg | Tablespoon vinegar |
| water to cover |
With a tack, poke a hole in the rounded end of the egg. Cook eggs in boiling water for 12 to 14 minutes, then plunge them into cold water for about 8 minutes. They should not be allowed to boil longer or the whites will become rubbery and the yolks will crumble. The small hole in the egg and the immediate immersion in ice water not only stops the cooking, it prevents the greenish, sulfurous-tasting layer surrounding the yolk to develop. The hole also helps prevent the egg from cracking in the boiling water, The white and the yolk should be completely set. That is, the center of the yolk should be the same color as its edges.
Note: You may want to cook one more egg than you need. After 12 minutes remove it from the pot, hold under cold water for a few seconds, then peel it and cut it in half. If the yolk is darker in the center the eggs should cook for 2 more minutes.
Going out for breakfast to a place that advertises eggs any style? Want to throw the kitchen a curve? Ask for poached eggs, but be prepared to wait. Several years ago some friends and I stopped for a late-night breakfast at a Bob's Big Boy in central Jersey.
One of the guys was on a low-cholesterol diet, so I suggested he order his eggs poached. The waitress returned and reported that the kitchen didn't do poached eggs. I pointed out that the menu read, eggs any style. As I recall, I also asked if the cook could boil water. By the time the cook figured it out, the poached eggs were served after the rest of us had finished our meal.
In is not uncommon for otherwise good cooks to balk at poached eggs. They shouldn't. Actually they're easier than eggs over easy. Forget what most cookbooks say about poaching in a sauté pan in about an inch of water. Use a pot that will allow for a much larger volume of water. The eggs will be easier to remove and will cook with a tighter and better consistency.
| 1 large egg | Butter |
| Slice of rat bread | Salt |
| 2 tablespoons white vinegar | 2 quarts water |
In a 4-quart pot bring the water and vinegar to a boil. Add salt. Break the egg into a shallow bowl. Create a whirlpool by stirring the water vigorously. Turn off the heat and gently slide the egg into the center of the pot. Let sit in the water for about 3 to 3˝ depending on the size of the egg; minutes until the whites are done, but the yolk is still runny. Don't bother with a timer. The best timer is free: your index finger. After about 3 minutes raise the egg with a slotted spoon; push down gently with your finger to test for doneness.
While the egg is resting in the water, toast the bread. Place a pat of butter on top of the toast, then remove egg with a slotted spoon and place it in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. After a few seconds, transfer the egg to a plate and trim it. Put it back in the hot water for a few seconds to warm it then remove it; drain off the water and lay on toast.
For special occasions, use a large glass or cup to make a crustless round from the bread before toasting and garnish with a few chives.
2 large or jumbo size eggs 1 tablespoon table cream 3 tablespoons butter Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
| 2 large or jumbo size eggs | 3 tablespoons butter |
| 1 tablespoon table cream | Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste |
Break eggs into a mixing bowl and whisk until frothy. Preheat skillet to medium heat, add butter. Swirl 2 tablespoons of butter around the skillet so that the bottom and sides are evenly coated. When the butter is half melted, add eggs and stir constantly with a fork, making sure the edges do not overcook by folding the edges into the center.
After 30 seconds, or when the eggs begin to hold together, remove the skillet from the range and let the eggs finish in the skillet. Blend in the cream and 1 tablespoon of butter. Salt and pepper lightly; taste and adjust if needed.
Serve hot with a rasher of bacon, ham, sausage, or scrapple and buttered toast with jelly on the side.
Note: Chives, parsley, or both can be added as soon as the eggs are in the skillet, or used as a garnish.
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