Sauces & Stocks

 

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Ye Olde Roadkill Inn     Index

 


MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER   

1 stick butter, room temperature 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Salt
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce White pepper

Cream the butter and beat in the lemon juice a little bit at a time. Beat in the parsley, Worcestershire sauce and a little salt and pepper. Taste; adjust salt and pepper if needed.

Serve with grilled meats.

MORNAY SAUCE  

Sauce Mornay is the foundation for most au gratin dishes. It is also excellent over vegetables such as broccoli.

1 pint of thick béchamel 1 tablespoon milk
1 cup Gruyere cheese 3 tablespoons heavy cream
2 egg yolks, beaten Salt and white pepper to taste

Add Gruyere cheese to heated, thick béchamel sauce; stir until all the cheese is melted. Remove from heat and add tempered egg yolks beaten with the milk. Bring slowly to a boil, whisking all the time. Remove from heat and add the cream. Stir until mixed. Adjust salt and pepper if needed. Return to crab au gratin

NEWBURG SAUCE  

Although the technique is borrowed from French culinary cuisine, Newburg sauce is an American original. It was created by Mr. Wenburg, a former head chef at Delmonico's. The first three letters of his name were reversed from Wem to New. While this sauce has long been associated with lobster Newburg, when times are tough, it can be used with many combinations of less costly seafood such as monk fish. If you try it, we hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

1 pint heavy cream Dry sherry
4 tablespoons flour White pepper
6 tablespoons butter Salt optional

Melt the butter in a sauce pan, add flour to make a roux. When the roux is translucent, slowly add the cream stirring constantly for 20 minutes. Add sherry to taste. If the sauce is not used immediately, transfer to a bain marie (double boiler) to keep warm and prevent scorching.

Note: Do not use cooking sherry. It's not only of poor quality, it is also heavily salted. An inexpensive double boiler is a stainless steel pot set atop a pot of simmering water. Scrounge up a lid or cover with a plate or aluminum foil.

POULET REDUCTION SAUCE  

This sauce is a variation on a velouté using chicken stock. It produces a richer, creamier sauce because the chicken stock is first reduced, then diluted with cream. This is an excellent sauce to serve with chicken croquettes.

4 tablespoons flour Salt and white pepper
5 tablespoons butter Optional:
3 cups chicken stock 1 tablespoon chives
1 cup table cream Sherry to taste

Reduce the chicken stock to 1 cup. Prepare roux as in béchamel sauce, then slowly add the reduced stock. After the stock and roux have formed a thick sauce, slowly add the cream while constantly stirring. Add the chives, if used, and continue stirring slowly for 15 minutes.

Note: Please, as mentioned in other sauces, never, ever use cooking sherry for any dish. Not only is it an inferior sherry, it is heavily salted. You cannot control the seasoning in your sauce.

SLOP SAUCE, ROADKILL INN  

The below sauce was created to make Scott's Slop, a variation on Sloppy Joes.

2 28-ounce cans tomato puree ¼ cup dark molasses
2 28-ounce cans Italian tomatoes 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 soup bones ¼ cup tablespoons dark sugar
2 medium onions, chopped 1 cup of raisins
3 bell peppers, chopped 3 teaspoons chili powder
12 cloves garlic, crushed and diced 1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 cup carrots, diced ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup fresh parsley, rough chopped Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
1 cup mushrooms, chopped

Pour tomatoes and tomato puree in pot and bring to simmer. While waiting for simmer, sauté peppers in olive oil for 5 minutes, add onions and sauté until just before they become translucent, add garlic and sauté until onions become translucent. Do NOT allow garlic to brown. Add to simmering tomato sauce. Add the rest of the ingredients to the sauce and simmer for four hours. Do NOT allow the sauce to scorch. Adjust seasonings, remove from flame and run through a food mill to remove the solids. Return to simmer and adjust salt, cayenne pepper, chili powder, mustard and Worcestershire sauce to taste.

Those who prefer the vegetables and seasoning in the sauce can just skip running the sauce through a food mill. When available substitute about 4 pounds of plum tomatoes for the canned tomatoes and purée. Return to Scott's Slop.

TARRAGON BUTTER SAUCE  

¼ pound butter (1 stick) 1 teaspoon dried parsley or 1 tablespoon fresh
3 teaspoons dried tarragon or 2 tablespoons fresh 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Salt and white pepper to taste

Melt the butter over a low flame. Add the herbs and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the heat off and allow the butter assimilate the herb flavors. When ready to use, reheat and add salt and white pepper to taste and according to what the butter will accompany. Return to Roadkill Chicken Kiev.

TARTAR SAUCE  

Seafood without tartar sauce is like turkey without cranberry sauce, pork without applesauce, or spaghetti without Italian tomato sauce. Problem is, it's tough to find a restaurant anymore that makes their own tartar sauce. Most use commercial products that use India or sweet relish and maybe even some grated onion resulting in a sauce that is too sweet. Originally tartar sauce was made with dill pickles that were finely diced. Dill relish – if and when you can find it – can be substituted quite well. What follows are the ingredients to make real tartar sauce.

Mayonnaise, a finely diced dill pickle or dill relish, onion and capers are the basics. Just mix them together. There are no amounts given because this is made to taste. Start on the light side and add more ingredients as needed until the right combination is achieved. Shallots or scallions (green onions) can be substituted for all or part of the grated onion. Consider adding a little dill, finely chopped parsley, chives, or chervil. If possible, make the sauce the day before it will be used. This will give the mayonnaise more time to assimilate the flavors from the ingredients. Experiment until you determined what tastes best for you. Many, especially deep-fried, seafood dishes will be greatly enhanced by home-made tartar sauce over commercial versions. Return to deviled crab cakes, Roadkill, haddock, fried

TOMATO SAUCE

Any recipe that calls for tomato sauce, puree, or paste will be enhanced by using a sauce that was made from fresh plum tomatoes. Don't waste time using any other variety, they're too acidic to produce a smooth sauce. Plum tomatoes become available about the middle of July with the growing season running into September, October if you grow your own. And if you grow your own, plant basil between each tomato plant. Basil is the primary herb that is used with tomatoes.

There are two ways to make tomato sauce: with a sauce machine and without one. If you don't have the machine or you are only making a small quantity, two the three quarts, wash and quarter the tomatoes. Put them in a stainless steel or ceramic pot. Avoid aluminum pots; they react adversely to the acid in the tomato.

For every two pound of tomatoes, add one basil leave that has been torn in half. Tearing the basil leave allow more of the oils to be released into the sauce. Add about a half-cup of water to the pot regardless of how many tomatoes are in in. Bring to a covered boil for 10 minutes, then remove lid and reduce flame to a strong simmer. Cook for about two hours. Remove and strain through a food mill, Chinaman's hat, or a colander. Return the strained sauce to a clean pot and reduce to desired thickness. Be very careful not to scorch the bottom. Plum tomatoes have a higher sugar content than other varieties, which causes the sauce to scorch more easily.

Those who own a sauce machine can simply wash and quarter the tomatoes then run them through the machine. Put the tomato juice and basil leaves in a stainless steel or porcelain enamel pot and reduce.

When the sauce has been reduced freeze it or use it in another recipe. If you will not be needing it for a couple of days, refrigerate it. Expect one cup of sauce per pound of tomatoes.  Return to barbecue sauce.

TOMATO SAUCE, ITALIAN WITH MEAT  

The problem with tomato sauce if often the tomatoes. The sauce should be made from Italian plum tomatoes, but that's not always possible. What follows below is a recipe when fresh tomatoes are not available. Cane sugar presents another problem. It is often added to the sauce to offset the acidity, especially if slicing tomatoes are used. Cane sugar doesn't eliminate the acid; it masks it in an unnatural way. Indigestion and heartburn may follow. Raisins, on the other hand, provide a more natural source of unrefined sugar that seems to neutralize the acid much better.

Each year commercially prepared sauces get thicker and thicker and visibly contain more and more of the herbs and vegetables that flavor the sauce. As with soup, I suppose, Americans think chunkier and thicker is a better bargain. Actually it's a commercial shortcut and a gimmick to justify raising the price of the product.

The sauce should be moderately thick. After the seasonings have simmered in the sauce for 4 to 6 hours, they should be removed or incorporated into the sauce in a non-intrusive manner. There are a number of ways to accomplish this: a Chinaman's cap, colander, food mill, food processor or a combination of the above. My method is to puree the sauce with a hand-held blender, then run the sauce through a food mill. After going through the mill, the sauce is moderately thick and contains all the essence of the seasonings.

No amounts are given for the ingredients. That's a personal thing. As a guideline start on the low end and add more through tasting. It's easier to add than to take away. And, if fresh plum tomatoes are available, substitute about 5 pounds for the canned tomatoes and puree.

Three 1 pound, 12 ounce cans of plum tomatoes Marjoram
Three 1 pound, 12 ounce cans of tomato puree Oregano
2 medium onions Bay leaves
½ cup raisins Salt
Soup bone or 2 beef bouillon 2 carrots, diced
Basil Optional:
Olive oil Thyme
Parsley Savory
Grated Romano cheese

Dice onions, garlic and carrots; sauté: in extra virgin olive oil adding the garlic after the onions are about half cooked. Do not allow the onions or garlic to brown. They are finished when they're translucent. Add tomatoes and puree, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Add the rest of the ingredients. Taste every half hour and adjust seasonings as needed. Check CONSTANTLY for scorching on the bottom of the pot. After 4 hours, if sauce seems too acidic, add more raisins, then make the final adjustment of seasonings and simmer for a half hour. Remove from heat and puree with hand blender or ladle into a food processor. Run pureed sauced through a food mill. Bring back to boil and simmer for a half hour. Return to meatballs, Italian spaghetti penne, veal parmesan rabbit cacciatore.

SAUCE VELOUTÉ

Butter Chicken, veal, brown,white, or fish stock
Flour Salt & pepper to taste

Proceed as for sauce béchamel except substitute stock for half or all the milk. deviled clams, Roadkill, chicken croquettes.

WHITE CLAM SAUCE  

There are few sauces that are as easy to make as white clam sauce. Yet we've ordered it out at a few places and were barely able to eat it. In one case the chef thickened the sauce, the reason for which I still can't understand. The second incident the kitchen used commercially canned surf clams (bait clams) and broth. And the worst was what tasted like they used Quaker State 10-W30 motor oil instead of olive oil.

I suspect that white clam sauce was created centuries ago in Sicily. Being surrounded by the Mediterranean, its people no doubt relied on the sea for much of their food. Add the olive trees and white clam sauce is a natural.

18 cherry stone clams Fresh Italian parsley about ¼ cup finely chopped
6 chowder clams ¼ to ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, more or less 2 cups water, more or less

Scrub mud and sand off the shells. Steam clams to open; discard any that don't. Reserve broth. Remove bellies and medium dice clams no larger than little fingernail. Pour clam broth into another container, stopping when sand and mud become evident. Discard the solids and clean the original container. Refill and repeat process every 15 minutes until all sand and mud is removed. Put broth into a sauce pot, add ½ the water and bring to a rolling boil. Skim of the scum and set aside.

Chop garlic fine and sauté in olive oil. DO NOT ALLOW GARLIC TO BROWN. When garlic is done, add clams and parsley, and sauté for about one minute, then add to the clam broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Taste; add more water if needed. Serve hot over linguini. Dried red peppers either in the sauce or on the side is optional.

Note: The number of garlic cloves is dependent upon how strong the garlic is and individual tastes. To enhance the garlic flavor after the sauce is almost done dice a few more cloves and sauté in olive oil, then add to sauce. Use fresh parsley if it's available. It makes a discernable difference. Do not use motor oil; use the best extra virgin olive oil available. Back to spaghetti.

WHITE STOCK (Fond Blanc)

White stock is similar to brown stock, the major difference being that the bones are not baked. The result is a lighter-colored sauce. Like brown stock, white stock can be reduced to a demi-glace, glace de viande deglaze a pan, or thickened with a roux.

10 pounds beef bones (knuckle, shin and marrow), or chicken bones or half chicken, half beef bones cut into 2-inch pieces 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 to 5 carrots, peeled 1 loose cup fresh parsley
3 to 5 carrots, peeled ½ teaspoon thyme leaves
3 medium onions, unpeeled ½ teaspoon peppercorns, cracked
3 cloves 5 quarts of water
2 large leek, washed NO SALT
2 bay leaves

Cover the bones with cold water and bring slowly to a simmering boil in an uncovered stock pot. Skim the scum that rises to the surface. Simmer for 2 hours, skimming as needed. Stick the cloves in one of the onions and add it to the pot. Add the carrots, another onion, the leeks, garlic, parsley, and seasonings.

Cut the last onion in half and brown the flat side in a skillet until the cut side turns dark. Add to stock pot. This is to provide an amber golden color to the stock if a consommé or aspic is to be made from the stock. Otherwise, add onion to the stock pot along with the second one.

Simmer slowly for 6 to 8 hours. If all chicken bones are used, 2-hours will be adequate. Refrigerate overnight then remove the fat that has solidified on the surface. Pack in small containers and freeze until needed.


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