The ladies of course have a wider choice. They wear patterns of flowers,
stars, checks, stripes, or even impressionistic splashes of all colours and
shapes. Some prefer self coloured plain textiles of bright or sombre hues.
The "longyi" is thus the basic lower garment of Myanmar wear. Topwear is
another matter altogether, especially for the fair sex.
In the old days, men wore a stiff-collared shirt, buttoned down the front and
it was usually white. It is the same as a western style shirt, and this has been
worn ever since they abandoned the traditional Myanmar style long shirt. The
shirt was either long-sleeved or short-sleeved. Men usually wore short-sleeved
shirts with collar on informal occasions. But today, they have switched to
T-shirts and sports shirts of all colours and designs for casual wear. But they
still wear the longyi for all occasions. Formal occasions and office wear
require men to don a jacket over the shirt. The jacket is of thicker material
than the shirt and is worn open in front but has Chinese style cloth buttons and
loops on each side. They hardly ever button up the front. It has two large
pockets below and two smaller ones at the top on both front panels.
Formerly top wear for the ladies consisted of a waist-length blouse known as
an "Aingyi". At one time its length was waist length but worn to show the "Ahtet
Hsin". But later it was further lengthened to just about cover the black strip
of cloth on the ladies’ longyi. The blouse had a squarish flap that was buttoned
at the side, somewhat like the top half of the Chinese Cheongsam. The blouse had
no fixed buttons, just loops. Buttons of all shapes and colours would then be
fastened on these loops. Each button had a ring through which the loop would be
passed and then slipped over the button to keep it in place. There were always
five loops for the set of five detachable buttons – one below at the front,
three at the side and one at the neckline. The ladies could thus keep a variety
of buttons and select them to match the skirt and blouse to be worn. Wealthy
ladies wore buttons of gold and diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls and other
precious and semi-precious gems. There was another style popular in the 1930s.
It was a blouse with a front opening with button loops down the front. This
style was called the "Yin Si", meaning as opposed to the "Yin Hpone" with the
opening at the side. Before World War II only long sleeves were worn, and at one
time the sleeves were loose and flared at the bottom. The jackets were made of
thin coloured or printed material. The plain white blouses often had embroidery
on the hems of sleeves or waist. Then during World War II ladies began to
shorten the length of their sleeves. One reason given was that cloth was scarce
during the war;in fact it was unavailable. But the ladies’ jackets, after many
washings, began to show signs of wear and tear especially at the elbows. So some
enterprising Myanmar lady cut off the lower half of the sleeves rather than wear
a torn aingyee or discard it altogether. This is said to have set the fashion
for short sleeves, that grew shorter as the years went by and finally ended up
as a sleeveless blouse. The quarter length sleeves also came into fashion
together with a stiff chinese style collar. Although the Chinese collar is no
longer very popular the quarter-length sleeves has now claimed a permanent spot
in Myanmar fashions. The blouse material also grew thinner and more transparent
to show off the dainty lace and embroidery of the under garment – a long-line
bra that tucked into the skirt. This fashion of transparent top wear had its
roots just before the Second World War and was highly disapproved of by the
general public and the Buddhist clergy who found it immodest, offensive and
unpatriotic as well. So when the fashion re-emerged after the War it still
failed to gain the approval of our straight-laced Myanmar society. So it enjoyed
only a short period of popularity. But the enduring longyi stayed the same
throughout the intervening years.
Today, ladies’ top wear, especially casual wear has gone overboard. The
traditional Myanmar blouse has not been entirely discarded and is still kept in
reserve to be worn on every formal occasion. But most Myanmar ladies, young and
old have taken to wearing loose and comfortable western style blouses and
T-shirts of all designs and colours. But they still wear them over the longyi.
Some of these blouses are so long they almost cover the knees. Necklines have
also been lowered both front and back, and some have been daring enough to wear
tank tops, but with the ubiquitous longyi. Not only do parents and elders frown
on this daring style, the innate modesty of most Myanmar girls has prevented the
proliferation of immodest fashions. Even the calf-length longyi that was in
vogue a short time ago, is over its heyday and the Myanmar longyi is back to
ankle-length. I think Myanmar women are smart enough to realize that the longyi
can hide a multitude of sins especially if one happens to be short and stocky.
Moreover the long sweep of the longyi enhances the beauty and elegance of our
young and lissome girls. They appear both slinky and innocent. So the longyi is
still the favoured garment. The Myanmar ladies have experimented and adopted new
fashions and styles, yet they cling to traditional fashions. For them there is a
time and place for different fashions. The Myanmar long-sleeved jacket is still
worn by housewives, office workers, teachers and Middle schoolchildren. The
longyi and the Myanmar style jacket are a MUST for all formal
occasions.
It is true today’s fashions have brought about some changes in ladies’
longyis. They may have slits at the sides, front or back. They may have a false
front flap and maybe worn by zipping it up at the side or back. They may also
wear it shorter than the traditional longyi. But the cut and pattern is still
recognizable as a Myanmar longyi. But for informal wear, nothing can beat the
comfort of the old tube- shaped cylinder which is still worn by almost all
Myanmar people, men and women alike. For however modern one maybe, the "pasoe"
or "htamein" is still very much favoured over jeans,trousers, mini and midi
skirts and what have you.
The Myanmar longyi is also catching on as fashionable wear for foreigners.
Tourists of both sexes can be seen in longyis on the streets of Yangon and I
have heard that the wrap-around skirt has become quite a fashion in some
countries like Australia. I think fashions in Myanmar may come and go, but
the longyi will go on forever.
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