Style 29 Lesson 2
Setting In The Straight Sleeve
With photo's and instructions by
Marsha Olson
(printout is 4-5 pages)


1. Matching the princess seams at the
shoulder, pin front and back together,
easing as needed to match all seams.
Sew the front and back together
at the shoulder seams.

2. Press open the shoulder seams
on the dress and lining.

3. Staystitch the armholes
and neck opening.

4. Clip to the staystitching until the
curved edge can be pulled into
a straight line. (We can manipulate
fabric to fit over curves, but we
always sew in straight lines.)

5. Using a slightly longer stitch,
run 2 rows of gathering stitches
along the cap of the sleeves
and sleeve linings.


6. Pull up the gathering stitches
just tightly enough to fit the
armhole when the armhole is
pulled open to it's maximum.
Ease the gathering out evenly
across the top of the sleeve cap.

7. Right sides together, lay the
armhole over the sleeve cap
and pin together.

8. Sew the two pieces together
from the dress side.
9. Depending on the fabric you have
chosen, the cap of your sleeve may
have more lift and appear to be
more gathered. This cashmere/wool
is what I consider a 'spongy' fabric
and easily hides what other hard finish
fabrics show.
10. Press the seams towards the dress.

11. Starting at the hem and sleeve opening,
pin the side seams together working your way
towards the waist. There may be a small
amount of easing at the hip to make the
two seams meet evenly.
Although the shoulders may appear to
be slightly too wide at this point,
it is because the neck is still not
finished and is causing the shoulders
and dress front to look 'pushed out'.

End Style 29 Lesson 2




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