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| As I previously stated, I wanted to keep the water-cooling set-up completely internal. My next consideration was powering the system, fans, and peltier. The peltier I chose would draw too much power from my current power supply, so adding a second power supply to my case was a viable option to me, since my case is a full-tower, giving me plenty of room to spare. The first step was to trace an outline on to a piece of paper of the current power supply. With this template in hand, I simply placed it where I wanted the second power supply to be and outlined it on to the case with a magic marker. After I had the general outline drawn, I attached a cutting wheel to my trusty Dremel tool, which cut through the aluminum like butter.
Mounting the radiator to the inside of the case proved to be challenging also. I could have either drilled into the radiator and screwed the radiator into the frame, epoxied the radiator to the frame, or attach the radiator to the case using nylon ties. I choose the nylon tie method.
Here is the radiator mounted in the case. This is a 12" x 5" aluminum automobile transmission cooler cooled by 2 120mm Sunon fans. Note that I changed my ming during the final mounting. I found it better to push air through the radiator rather than to "suck it off" (no offense intended). Pushing air through decreased my overall CPU temp. by about 1-2 degrees F.
For the exterior of the case, I used a 80mm circular drill bit to cut openings for my two 80mm blow-hole fans. My cats were starting to lose their whisker's, so I attached some grille guards just to be safe. Pictured here, I have two 120mm blow-hole openings on the top of the case, I later choose to cut one large rectangular opening instead.
Once the two power supplies were installed, the next task was to wire them together so they would both turn on at the same time when the computer's main power button is pushed.
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