BONSAI BASICS
Home | CONTACT ME | ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE | SPECIES GUIDE | TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT | BONSAI TECHNIQUES | DISPLAYING YOUR BONSAI | GALLERY
ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE

WATERING

Most Bonsai need watering every day. The best time to do this is in the evening to give the roots time to absorb as much moisture as they need before the soil dries out. Rainwater is best for all Bonsai. I have a large water butt into which I can dip a watering can.
 
During long hot, dry spells ( if we are lucky enough to get any ) I stand my pots in an old aluminium pan half filled with water for several minutes to give them a good soak. I add liquid feed to the water once a week.

Mist spraying is also beneficial, again do this in the evening. I do not spray oaks as they are prone to mildew, I just wet the leaves when I water them.

FEEDING

Most Bonsai require feeding every two weeks from spring to autumn. Exeptions are Pines which need only be fed once a month.

Liquid feed (CHRYSAL)is best although in very hot weather pellets can be used. these are placed on the surface of the soil and the nutrients are washed in during watering. Also a granular feed such as Chempak Bonsai Food is a good all-round alternative as this partially disolves in water but is retained longer in the soil.

POSITION

Use my species guide to determine where to place your Bonsai. They may look good displayed together in a sunny spot but some will inevitably suffer.

BONSAI TIP

When watering your Bonsai use a watering can with a long neck and a fine rose. If possible place the Bonsai in a shallow container filled with water for about ten minutes.
 
I have been given a Hawes watering can, perfect for bonsai with two roses and a long neck and ideal for dipping in a water butt. It was bought from Harrod Horticultural at £50.00. Very expensive but it will last a lifetime and I recommend it.

In this area I'll include a list of all the material necessary to perform the tasks I'm describing on this page.

LEAF PRUNING

This is basically removing any leaves which obscure the outline of your Bonsai. Use a leaf cutting tool and do not be over- enthusiastic.

BRANCH PRUNING

This is more drastic cutting and is a part of the main styling process. It is usually done in early spring before bud break.Trimming shears are used to remove smaller branches and concave cutters used to remove larger ones.

ROOT PRUNING

This is probably the most important Bonsai technique.
Root pruning is done in early spring before bud break but after the danger of severe frost has passed.
 
Carefully remove the Bonsai from its pot and comb out the roots using a root hook. At least a third of the old soil should be removed. Then cut the longest roots back to create a compact root ball with a flat base. The basic idea is to encourage fine roots which grow quickly to give the tree vigour. If thick roots are cut use a wound sealant to stop "bleeding" and reduce the chance of infection.
 
Position the Bonsai in its pot on a layer of  fresh soil and anchor it with copper wire threaded through the holes in the pot and through the roots. This will hold the tree in position until the new root growth begins. Top up the pot with soil and water well.
 
Protect from frost for a few weeks and keep well watered.

SOIL

There are many types of soil, each to suit different species. So much information is available that the novice can become confused. It is better at first to buy ready prepared soil for repotting. I use basic soil mix for all my native deciduous trees. Add grit for pines and conifers and John Innes No 3 compost for Maples, this is similar to Japanese Akadama. NEVER use garden soil as it may contain pests and diseases.
 
I have been using Akadama, authentic clay based Japanese potting medium. Maples love it and mine have done really well growing in it. I have also experimented using it for an Elm and results are good so far.

MOSS

It is possible to buy moss spores, but I find it is best to let nature grow your moss for you. Moss will appear on any moist soil surface given time. This can take up to three months so be patient.

When you repot your Bonsai slice the moss from the soil surface and replace it on the new soil. Spray daily for two weeks and it will soon establish.

WIRING

To create and maintain the shape of your Bonsai some wiring will be needed. There are various grades of wire available. Copper wire is best but aluminium wire can also be used.

Wire your tree by carefully wrapping the wire around the branch at an angle of forty five degrees. Start by anchoring the wire to the trunk and work slowly outward. when this is done bend the branch slowly to the required position. Repeat this process until you are happy with the result.

After wiring , place the Bonsai in a shaded position for a week to allow the water channels to recover. Inspect the tree every two weeks to ensure the wire does not begin to cut into the bark as the branches swell.

Remove the wire after twelve weeks, allow the tree to recover, and wire again if necessary.

PESTS

There are many garden pests which will attack Bonsai, but the main two that I have problems with are aphids and scale insects.

The important thing to do is to check your trees daily when watering them, it may be possible to just pick the offending insects off if they are present in small numbers.

If the insects are persistant a spray type insecticide will keep them under control.