North-east
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The north-east of Vietnam is one of the most stunning areas you will see and the landscape, or more specifically the seascape, is spectacular. Vietnam’s mind-blowing northern maritime claims, of which Halong Bay is a major part, can be visited on a day trip from Hai Phong or over a few days staying within sight if the majestic islands piercing the deep green water. Visiting these areas you will experience part of the northern Vietnam fishing and agricultural culture as well as the scenes of some extremely heavy fighting during the French War, especially on the road from Lang Son to Cao Bang. The French had attempted to police cross border smuggling into China by installing a series of garrisons at That Khe, Cao Bang, Dong Khe and Lang Son. All of these bases were eventually destroyed by guerrilla action, along with their supply convoys which plied the hellish Colonial Routes 3 and 4. |
Hai Phong
Hai Phong is Vietnam’s third most populated city, located 102 km east of Hanoi, and has a strong French influence and a more recent Russian one. It is also and industrial centre with one of Vietnam’s most important sea ports, obvious when viewing it from the water. The view from the ferry is never-ending panorama of hundreds of blue fishing boats, and a multitude a large, rusting ships, most looking as if they should not even be floating. Although Hai Phong is a major port, it is actually 12 km inland on the Cam River. The hustle and bustle of Hai Phong will only increase as the projected boom in the transfer of Chinese goods through this deep water port takes hold. The downtown area of Hai Phong retains a distinct charm with many of its colonial buildings still standing, and the waterfront area though rundown is fascinating to look at. Hai Phong also marks the official beginning of the first Indochinese war when the French shelled the area in 1946. Then towards the end of the American campaign, Hai Phong harbour was mined and then heavily bombed during the Linebacker II operation.
Du hang Pagoda
Built in the 17 century, this pagoda is dedicated to Le Chan, an intrepid female leader, who fought alongside the Truing sisters during their famous revolt of 40 AD. This pagoda has been renovated but is still considered a fine display of classic Vietnamese architecture.
Colonial Architecture
Both Dien Bien Phu Street and Tran Hung Dao street are lined with many French colonial buildings, giving the streets a somewhat timeless feel.
Hang Kenh House
This house once was used as a community centre, but it is now home to any wooden carvings and sculptures for which it is justifiably famed.
Back to topHalong Bay Bai Chay is a town reaping the benefits of tourism. It is only small, however its two main streets are lined with hotels, restaurants and food stalls orientated towards the foreign tourists.
Local myth has it that Halong Bay was formed by a dragon that fled from the mountains to the coast during which its tail carved out the earth, creating waterways and 3,000 islands. Halong means ‘where the dragon descends into the sea’.
This incredibly beautiful bay can be visited from either Bai Chay or Hong Gai by boat. Once out and in the bay, the vistas are stunning. Many of the outcrops are diddled with grottoes, some of which your guide will take you into for a look around. One of the caves you may visit is the Dau Go grotto which is full of stalactites and stalagmites. Grottoes that are worth visiting in Halong Bay are Bo Nau, Trinh Nu, Thien Cung ... You may stop at a quiet small bay to have a swimming on your own ...
Cat Ba island National park This is an oasis in the hectic Vietnamese world. It is one of the few places where you can find a quiet beach and not be bothered by someone trying to sell you a drink, fruit or sticky rice. Cat Ba island is one of the largest in Halong Bay and covers and area of 350 km square. Although only 30 km from Halong bay, it takes 4 hours by boat to get there. In 1986 a large proportion of Cat Ba island was turned into a national park to protect the flora, fauna and unique characteristics of the island, including the large 7.5 acre freshwater lake in the centre.
The main town of the island is in the south and definitely does not win the prize for the prettiest town in Vietnam, as it is currently undergoing mass construction of roads, hotels and houses. Mass in this scene means that the small fishing town is doubling its size in one foul swoop, awaiting the tourist inslaught. The y bay retains a distinctive aroma, which fishing villages alone are able to create.
Very few Vietnamese visit Cat Ba island on vacation, so the island is anticipating to become an increasingly popular destination for foreigners. Currently most foreigners visit on a day trip, but we recommend you spend a few days there if you have the time. The noise of construction is contributed to by the old Russian motorbikes beeping, smoking, and often felling apart, and the karaoke bars which are virtually in every house trying to compete for customers. This will be your first experience when you arrive, but do not let this initial impression spoil your stay, as the island has many beautiful aspects to explore.
The park supposedly contains an extensive wildlife population. Chances are you will see a limited selection as many of the animals were shot for food during the Vietnam War. The human encroachment into the park in terms of farming may also have something to do with the lack of animal life. Rumours abound that there is a leopard living in the park, but a guide who has worked there for five years has never seen it. The national park contains stringy trees, thick undergrowth and slippery vines. There is a great view that includes a French, now Vietnamese, farming village from the top of the mountain within the park. There is also a lake in the middle if the park that takes half a day to reach. Five km form the park boundary there is a large cave, which has many chambers and a guide is essential to explore it.
The ride up to the north of the island is on a small, winding, often unsealed, and potholed road. It passes interesting pockets of houses, beautiful countryside and a few caves, generally indicated by worn trails leading off the road. One of these caves was cemented closed in December 1994 because it was used by Americans soldiers during the war. Near the north of the island is the second largest town on the island, however it seems to be overrun by children.
A great view and sunset vantage point is from the Buddhist shrine, on the hill seen from the wharf of Cat Ba town, but be careful of the slate blasting around this area.
Back to topThe trip to Far North Parts of the Far North are particularly isolated and difficult to visit. However, this isolation adds to the region’s beauty, as many areas are still extremely undeveloped, and distant from the popular tourist trail To reach Ba be lakes in Bac Can province is a challenge, but one well worth pursuing. The road between That Khe and Lang Son, whose beauty of plunging ravines riddled with caves, hides a grim and bloody past, is also worth the effort to see. To the north of Cao Bang is Pac Bo, near the cave in which Ho chi Minh lived upon first returning to Vietnam from China. The Far North of Vietnam is home to numerous tribes of ethnic minority groups. They live in some of the most isolated places, subsisting through traditional means. Some of the tribes you may encounter are the Tay, Nung, Zao, Meo, Man and the San Chay. Farther afield in ha Tuyen province there are variety of tribes numbering from several thousand members to only a few hundred people.
This guide follows a path beginning in Thai Nguyen, to the north of Hanoi, and heading north to Bac Can and the Ba Be lakes before moving north west to Cao Bang. From there we head south through Dong Khe and That Khe to Lang Son, the other main gateway between China and Vietnam for foreign visitors.
Thai Nguyen The only reason you would want to stay in Thai Nguyen was if there was a flood and all the roads were impassable. For those that want to explore Thai Nguyen, it has the remains of a citadel from the early 1800s, and a museum with exhibits on the history and ethnic groups of the northern region. Thai Nguyen is also an important player in Vietnam’s steel industry.Bac Can - Ba Be Lakes
The road
from Thai Nguyen to Bac Can passes through some very scenic areas and is in pretty good
condition. The only real sight in Bac can is Ba Be lakes which is 80 km north-west the
town. Ba Be Lakes means three lakes on the mountain. The main lake is over 9 km long and
500 m wide and set in a picturesque national park. The jumping off point for Ba Be lakes,
ho Ba Be, is a small town called Phu Thong, which is about 30 km north of Bac Can. The
road is in terrible condition, most of it is unpaved and in the wet season it could well
be impassable. The ride takes about takes about two hours on a dry road, and is very
jarring on the body! It is quite scenic and you may be invited in for a cup of tea or a
smoke. The last 2 km before the lakes passes through some beautiful old forest, probably
not unlike what must have originally covered vast tracts of land in the area. At the
lakeside there is a number of small cafes and a ferry that passes over to the other side
of the lake. The lakes are stunning to look at, and a couple of hours could easily be
spent exploring some of the nooks and crannies of the lakes foreshore. Beside, you may
spend some more hours to do some scenic walks through the surrounding old growth forest.
Cao Bang
Cao bang is in the proximity of the Chinese border which has made
it a veritable boom town with new quite flash development going on in its surroundings.
The only reason for visiting Cao Bang is probably Thac Ban Gioc Water falls, whose
location exactly on the frontier with China made them a bone of contention during the
border war. At over 90 km and three hours' driving each way, Ban Gioc water falls is a
full day's outing but remember that the falls are less than spectacular in the dry season.
Another attraction is a cave 54 km to the north-west of Cao Bang, near the Chinese border.
It was Pac Bo cave, where Ho Chi Minh first returned from exile in 1941 and established
the Viet Minh. Appropriate to the area is the nearby Lenin stream, Suoi Le Nin, and Karl
Marx mountain, Nui Cac Mac.
That Khe
That Khe is a quaint little rural Vietnamese town. Some severe fighting occurred here during the French and Chinese conflicts, to which the old school still bears witness, with many of the walls bearing damage from shelling and small arms fire. The main reason to stop in That Khe is to break the journey from Cao Bang to Lang son.
The road from That Khe to Cao Bang follows a valley that was the scene of vicious fighting during the French conflict and where many lives were lost. Many of the cliff sides are riddled with caves that you can see from the road. Many locals will go to pains to attempt to explain to you what went on in this valley.
Lang Son Lang son is the capital of the province of the same name, but despite its title, it mainly serves the traveler solely as a point to pass through on they way to some where else. Lang son, which is surrounded by tall mountains, is a popular place to cross to and from China, as Chinese troops did in February 1979. Some buildings in Lang Son and the surrounding area still bear the scars of this incident. In 1953, Lang son was also bombed by the French as it was a supply center for the Viet Minh. Ots history extends farther back, however, as the town contains the remains of a citadel built during the 18 century. There are numerous hilltribe villages around this area, particularly those of the Tay, Man, Nung and Dao.
Crossing to China from Lang Son
The border crossing is at dong Dang, about 20 km from Lang son.
Note: If you are entering Vietnam here, you MUST have the correct entry point (Dong Dang) marked on your visa, otherwise you may be turned away. This can create a problem as you would have already officially left China.
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