| The Blenders Boom The
Spirit Act of 1860 made it possible to produce
large volumes of blended whisky, and many spirits
merchants and grocers began to specialise in
producing blends with a very broad appeal. Drinks
which had a lighter character than malt whisky,
but were more substantial than grain whisky. The
economic advantages of creating a flavoursome
drink out of grain whisky were not missed by the
many wine & spirits merchants who took up
blending, and since they were now able to achieve
greater consistency of flavour, it also became
possible - and desirable - to brand their
creations and promote them.
The Victorian era produced many
remarkable people, not least in the whisky
industry. They were assisted by a number of
factors. First was the appeal of the product.
Second, the growing fashion for things Scottish,
led by Queen Victoria herself. Third, the by now
well established rail and sea routes, which made
transportation far easier than previously.
Fourth, by the existence of the British Empire,
the biggest market in the world. Fifth, and most
significantly was a bug, Vastetrix, which
devastated the vineyards of France between the
mid- 1860s and the late 1880s. The significance
of the latter was immense. During the 1880s the
vineyards of Grande Champagne were ruined and the
production of Cognac virtually ceased. Brandy
became almost unavailable. And brandy (with soda)
was the drink of the English middle classes.
Blended whisky (and soda) was there to replace
it.
The Blenders Goal
The whisky blenders task is to combine
a number of malt and grain whiskies in such a way
that the resulting drink is more than the sum of
its parts. Its parts are many. The Master Blender
selects from between fifteen and fifty different
malt whiskies and three or four grain whiskies.
Each at a different age and is chosen from an
individual cask.
The formulae for some blends are a
hundred years old, but they are not sacrosanct.
Distilleries close and their product is no longer
available. Sometimes they choose to withdraw from
blending market and bottle their output as a
single (Glenmorangie did this in the early
1980s). From time to time whisky companies alter
the composition to suit changing taste. This was
recently done, very successfully, by Bell's (a
bold step for the UK market leader) and the new 8
Years Old is richer and smoother than the
previous blend.
The Early Blenders
For as long as they have existed in
Scotland, whisky was sold by taverns and hotels,
wine and spirit merchants, grocers and provision
merchants. The whiskies were sold under the
merchant's or invented names, not branded by the
distiller, although by the early 19th century
Glenlivet had made such a reputation fot itself
that a huge number of malts - many of them remote
from Glenlivet itself were using the name.
It is safe to suppose that some of
these merchants mixed their whiskies - even
diluted and adulterated them. Until legislation
permitted weaker washes and smaller stills,
illicit malt whisky was much superior to the
legal variety; as we have seen, in the Lowlands
pot-still grain distilleries were common. Young
whiskies were mixed with old; grain with malt -
all in the interests of profit.
This early 'blending' was a crude
affair. There was little quality control, and
little concern for consistent, repeatable,
products.
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