Moneychangers in Bali generally give better rates than banks, are much more numerous, and keep more convenient hours. Get a supply of Rpl000 and Rp500 notes when you change money, as taxi drivers and vendors often have or claim to have-no change for big bills. When traveling in the countryside, Rp100 notes are also useful.

Carrying cash (US$) can be a handy safety precaution as it is still exchangeable should you lose your passport, but Indonesian banks only accept foreign currency that is crisp and clean.

Major credit cards are accepted in a wide variety of shops and hotels. But they often add a 3% surcharge. Most cities have at least one bank at which cash advances can be made-look for Bank Duta, BCA and Danamon. Visa and MasterCard are the most frequently accepted.

Automated Teller Machines (ATM) for Cirrus are now at major banks in most tourist centers.

There are no exchange controls and excess rupiah (bills only) can be freely reconverted at the airport.

Tax, Service and Tipping

Most larger hotels and restaurants charge 21% tax and service on top of your bill. Tipping is not a custom here, but it is appreciated for special services. USD$1 or Rp10.000 per bag is considered a good tip for room boys and porters. Taxi drivers will want to round up to the nearest Rp3000.

When tipping the driver of your rental car or a housekeeper of the house in which you've been a guest, fold the money, put it in an envelope and present it with the right hand only.

OFFICE HOURS IN BALI

Government offices (except those in Jakarta which run on a five-day work week) are officially open Monday to Thursday, 8 am to 3 pm, Friday until 11 am and Saturdays until 1 pm, but if you want to get anything done, be there by 11 am. In large cities most private businesses are open 9 am to 5 pm. Shops from 9 am to 9 pm. In smaller towns shops close for a siesta at 1 pm and re-open at 6 pm.

COMMUNICATIONS

Mail

Indonesia's postal service is reliable, if not terribly fast. Kilat (express) service is only slightly more expensive and much faster. Kilat khusus (domestic special delivery) will get there overnight. International express mail gets postcards and letters to North America or Europe in about 7 days from most cities.

Kantor pos (post offices) are found in every little village in Bali, open 8 am-2 pm every day except Sunday. The main post office in Denpasar (JI. Raya Puputan, Renon) remains open until 8 pm. Most close from noon to 1 pm for lunch.

Post offices are often busy and it can be a tedious process to line up at one window for weighing, another window for stamps, etc. Hotels will normally sell stamps and post letters for you, or you can use private postal agents to avoid hassles. Look for the orange Agen Kantor Pos (postal agency) signs.

Poste Restante service is usually reliable, but it is advisable to choose more important towns such as Kuta or Ubud. Some post offices ask for ID and may also charge a fee before handing over your letters.

Telephone and Fax

Long distance phone calls, both within Indonesia and international, are handled by satellite. Domestic long distance calls can be dialed from most phones. To dial your own international calls, find an IDD (International Direct Dial) phone and dial "001" or "008, " otherwise you must go via the operator, which is far more expensive.

A magnetic debit (kartu telpon) phone card can be purchased at hotels, post offices and many other outlets. This is used on card phones, which are increasing in popularity, eliminating the need for small change.

If your hotel has no IDD link you have to go to the main telephone office (kantor telepon), use a silver card phone (kartu telpon) and pay an uninflected rate or use a private postal and telephone service: Wartel (warung telekommunikasi) warpostel / warparpostel. These small "telkom shops" are all over Indonesia and the most convenient way to call international (you avoid hotel price hikes). They are often run by well-trained, efficient staff and offer fast I DID services at near standard rates. Open daily 8 am -10 pm or 11 pm; some open 24 hours. Rates per minute are about $2.30 to the Americas and $3.10 to most European countries. Night rates are slightly lower.

International calls via MCI, Sprint, ATF, and the like can be made from IDD phones using the access code for your calling card company. Recently, special telephones have been installed in some airports with pre-programmed buttons to connect you via these companies to various countries.

Faxes can be sent and received at wartel offices and most main post offices.

E-mail

E-mail and internet services are available at many wartel, the main post office and an increasingly number of cyber cafes.

Courier Services

Some of the big international courier outfits operate in Indonesia, along with some domestic ones. TNT Express Worldwide and Elteha International are probably the most reliable in Indonesia. Bali offices include:

• PT. Khrisna Bali International Cargo
  Jl. Blambangan 8x Kuta Bali Indonesia ( 80361 )
  
• Elteha International
  J1. Diponegoro, Komplek Pertokoan Diponegoro Megah, Denpasar
  
• Indo Exspres
  J1. Raya Sesetan 37, Denpasar
  
• Federal Express
  JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X,
  
• MSA
  JI. Hayam Wuruk 128, Denpasar,
  
• TNT Express Worldwide
  JI. Teuku Umar 88E, Denpasar,
  
• UPS
  Jl. Imam Bonjol 336K, Denpasar,

ELECTRICITY

Most of Indonesia has converted to 220 volts and 50 cycles, though a few places are still on the old 110 lines. Ask before you plug in if your are uncertain. Power failures are common in smaller cities and towns. Voltage can fluctuate considerably so use a stabilizer for computers and similar equipment. Plugs are of the European two-pronged variety.